Randy introduces the Anderson Powerpole connector. He covers, where to obtain the connectors, various pin and wire sizes, and proper connector orientation that has become the standard for ham radio use. Randy shows both how to solder and crimp the connectors. If you have not used or are thinking about using Powerpole connectors, then you need to watch this video.
If they are crimped properly they can not be disassembled at least I do not try. I will cut the ends off and re-assemble. I have been able to pull the wire and silver tip out of the plastic body by carefully pushing a peace of steel antenna tip that I have sharpen into a hat pin of sorts. Good luck, Bob Smith WB6ODR, Prescott, AZ
Excellent presentation. I've done many of these connectors and have screwed up a few. A jeweler's screwdriver can also be used to coax the metal tip into the plastic body. It can also be used on the other end to push the tip out of the plastic body if need be.
Very well done. Thanks. One comment though. If you crimp them you can solder AFTER you crimp them if you want to. As explained in the video. However DO NOT tin the wire before you crimp it. The wire needs to be soft so it can be squeezed as you crimp the connector and solder on it makes it too solid and too hard.
That is not the reason one should not tin wires before crimping. Adding solder adds material between the strands. After crimping, the solder will deform and start to flow and is "squeezed out", releasing the pressure from the crimped connection. In worst case, allowing the cable to be pulled out of the connector again. For the same reason, one should never tin a wires in screw terminals. Soldering after crimping has no use. A properly crimped connector causes a molecular bonding between the copper strands and the terminal, producing an air-tight connection. Filling the tiny voids hardly adds contact surface and is also hardens the copper, increasing the risk of breaking just as well.
Beware of counterfeit Powerpoles. Only purchase them from authorized distributors. The picture here shows ones I've picked up at various hamfests (right side) vs. those I purchased from Mouser Electronics (left side). Note that the stampings are missing letters, upside-down and contacts corroded on the questionable ones.
Trick I learned from one of the vendors at Orlando is, if you don't want to use metal roll pins to keep the red and black connectors from sliding around on each other, cut up a Q-tip shaft. It's a tight friction fit, and it's nonmetallic.
PowerPoles are not meant to be used in "permanent" installations - they need to be "used" in order to maintain proper connectivity. PowerPoles , if left unconnected (or connected all the time) develop resistance in the two spring contact - enough to slow to a stop small 100 - 200 mW loads. Look at a cross-section of what little metal-to-metal contact is actually made. They work well when regularly plugged in and out - "self-cleaning." But if they are not engaged/disengaged often, the contacts deteriorate with corrosion, with resistance at small current levels .
Or you can use some .095 inch string trimmer line in place of the pin. Slightly smaller if you can find the kind with ribs on them. Works great! I cannot take credit for this, I saw it in a recent issue of QST. I tried it and it is so much easier that fiddling with the little metal roll pins.
Cool Beans Bruce, I use the Little two legged guys that hold the connectors together, but your q-tip idea is really great and cost effective as I am always miss-placing or loosing the locking pins. Thanks & 73
Great information! I have never used the above, but when properly assembled, they look like a great clutter remover and time saver.