I despise Cross-Needle meters, as right in the area where you need the most resolution, they are the least accurate!!! Everything has them, and they are ALL JUNK! -- However i really like your demonstration!!! i always use CW mode for tuning though... just key down, and tune up! -Have fun-
I didn't have time to check out the video. When tuning an unknown antenna, I mid-range the caps and then adjust the inductance for max background noise. From that point, it's a matter of going back and forth with the caps until there's no reflected power. On rare occasions I've had to change the inductance from that initial setting. I have three manual tuners and I will never get an auto-tuner. Question: How many of you have been QRMed by someone hitting their auto-tune button on top of a weak DX station? ARGHHHHH!
Just a quick comment. If you also use your ATU for SWL, having a manual tuner is a big plus. I use a dedicated auto tuner for all my rigs, but when I am listening to an SDR, obviously I cannot transmit a carrier to tune the ATU. What I have found with my LDG Z-11 Pro II is that I can manually tune the ATU using the C-Up/Dn and the L-Up/Dn buttons to "tune" the ATU for better SDR reception. KZ4TN
Dey dunna 'tune' nothin'. But what they do is best done with a manual matching unit. No power needed, give decades of reliable service, usually lightweight, even for portable use.
The SWR Meter in the tuner is the better choice for to tune in. Just forget the build-in SWR in the transceiver. Just have an eye on the tuner. And for to adjust the inductance just listen to the noise. When the noise signal is the loudest, thats perfect. At next just tune in the transmitter and antenna knobs. But in the case of the manual tuner it is really unlikely to adjust again after changing the frequency only a few kHz higher or lower. I personally use the MFJ-971. To tune in a longwire , equal which shape it takes, is really simple. From a strechted wire up to a slinky (helical antenna) is everything allowed.
I've recently taken to tuning with a NANOVNA or my rig-expert connected to my 969. I pick the frequency I want to operate at/near, make my adjustments, then plug the transceiver back in. This is not too practical for field use, but it works and is a lot of fun.
I keep my MFJ 259B plugged into a transceiver switch. When I want to adjust the roller inductor tuner, I switch to the analyzer and adjust until I get a 50 ohm match. Switch back to the transmitter when I'm done. Gets it perfect every time, no QRM either
I have gone back to switched inductor matches. The roller inductors need so much cleaning and maintenance that they rarely work smoothly, I even had a Palstar and it needed a lot of cleaning. I agree manual antenna matches are much better than automatics if you are looking at having the lowest consistent SWR and are usually a lot more broadbanded after tuning. And I echo K7RLN's comment, I've had very little trouble with the MFJ gear I've owned over many years. I've still got a 949D that is ancient, has always worked perfectly.
I've got an older MFJ 986 and indeed the roller needs cleaned every so often otherwise it appears to crackle when tuning it with the antenna analyzer. That's one of those things that ought to be mentioned as periodic maintenance on roller inductors, they need cleaned!
Not much of a video. He was playing around as though he were lost. Simple is to start by tuning Inductor for maximum noise and then e the capacitors for maximum noise. After that with low power tune for minimum SWR. Easy peasy. WRITE THE RESULT down. It will help althogh they will chane from time to time based omn outdoor conditions.
