Your favorite boat anchor restoration vids?

Discussion in '"Boat Anchor" & Classic Equipment' started by N5OLA, Sep 23, 2019.

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  1. N5OLA

    N5OLA Ham Member QRZ Page

    I'm watching a great how-to video series on repairing boat anchors by a former Heathkit engineer. Really helpful for me, as someone who is trying to scale a steep learning curve. He's restoring an SB-110 in the video, but his tips would apply to many Heathkit boat anchors.

    Would love to see any recommended how-to videos like this one that go into detail on a Heathkit restoration. I've got two HW-101s that I'm itching to tear into.

    73 --> N5OLA

     
    W1TRY likes this.
  2. WA2CWA

    WA2CWA Ham Member QRZ Page

    Ever wonder how many of us did all this repair and/or restoration back in the "good old days" without You Tube videos :)
     
  3. KE0ZU

    KE0ZU Ham Member QRZ Page

    Pete said;
    I agree!! YouTube may help to get "up and running" quickly, assuming you watch the "right" Video. Othewise common sense is still your best guide.

    Painfully slow to watch, but, I guess if you've never looked inside a radio before....

    There's not much in there that water will damage, and a great percentage of old radios are mechanical in nature, knobs, bearings, shaft couplings, bushings, sliding contacts etc, so there really isn't much in the way rocket science involved.

    I just use my pressure washer, after masking and/or removing all the water sensitive components, if any. Quick and easy, maybe 5 minutes.

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    Just be sure if you use any water dunking or spraying system, don't fill the transformers with water, final rinse with distilled water from the grocery, and blow out excess water as best you can with compressed air or a leaf blower, then, let it cook in the hot summer sun, or in a 150F/65C oven for a day or two.

    Spot lube all bearings/bushings, spot apply De oxit to wafer/slide switch and tube socket contacts, etc.

    Replace the PS caps, if you're working on old CONSUMER products, AA5s and the like. Plug it into your Kill-A-Watt meter, set to "Watts", and fire it up. INTENTLY watch the Kill-A-Watt meter for the first minute or two, and if it starts to climb RAPIDLY, well past the expected reading (you'll find that number in the manual), shut it off and start trouleshooting.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
    N5OLA and W1TRY like this.
  4. KA0HCP

    KA0HCP XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Careful on temps. The Navy standard for electronics salvage is 130F. Preheat the oven and be sure to use a thermometer to monitor temp.

    Particularly with BA's temps much higher will melt the waxes used in paper caps, coils and transformers.
     
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  5. W5RKL

    W5RKL Ham Member QRZ Page

    Here are a few full restoration projects I've completed over the past few years.
    I involved with a few more full restoration projects I hope to complete by early nest year.

    I fully restored (built from scratch) a Heathkit HW-101. This was not a working HW-101
    I disassembled to a bare chassis.

    https://w5rkl.com/heathkit-hw-101-complete-rebuild/

    The restored HW-101 works quite well. I use it on 40 CW quite often and received
    very good "stable" reports.

    I fully restored a Heathkit HR-10B receiver. The link below shows the restoration
    process and discussions with some BEFORE and AFTER pictures. The receiver worked
    but had hum in the audio before the reatoration begain.

    https://w5rkl.com/restoration-page-2/

    The receiver works quite well.

    I fully restored a Heathkit AR-3 Short Wave receiver. Click the link below to see the
    restoation steps with discussion and BEFORE and AFTER pictures.

    https://w5rkl.com/full-restoration-of-my-1956-heathkit-ar3-four-band-receiver/

    The retored AR3 receiver works quite well.

    73
    Mike W5RKL
    https://www.w5rkl.com
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
    N2EY likes this.
  6. N2EY

    N2EY Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Mr. Carlson's Lab
     
  7. N5OLA

    N5OLA Ham Member QRZ Page

    Mike, I've been all over your website. A great resource. I can't imagine how you had the patience to rebuild that complicated wiring harness.
     
  8. K9STH

    K9STH Platinum Subscriber Volunteer Moderator Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    Unfortunately, for every decent You Tube restoration video there are at least 10-videos that are problematic. Knowing which is which can be daunting and following the wrong video can be disastrous.

    Glen, K9STH
     
  9. W5RKL

    W5RKL Ham Member QRZ Page

    Actually Bill, stringing a new wiring harness is not that difficult. It's more time consuming then difficult. Each wire
    had to be mapped from end to end. Once all the wires were mapped, an entry was made for each wire run in the
    Excell Spread Sheet. I started at BO#1 and mapped each wire from one end to the other and where it connected.
    A simple example is the solid GRAY wire at BO#1

    BO#1
    Gray from ON/OFF volume control R lug 4 ___________to power connector pin 9 BO#12

    To determine where the GRAY wire ran, I connected one lead of the ohmmeter to the GRAY wire at BO#1
    then checked each wire at BO#2, 3, 4, etc until I got a solid continuity indicaiton on the ohmmeter. This
    wire run was documetned on paper. I then moved on to the next wire at BO#1 repeating the process until
    I mapped every wire at BO#1. I then moved on to BO#2 and repeated the process, again documenting each
    wire run on paper. I repeated this process for each BO point. If the wire color had faded, I used HW-101 manual's
    Detail 8-4A. Most wire colors were able to be determined.

    I followed the original harness wire size using 18awg for heavier current wiring and 22awg for lower current
    wiring.

    Multi colored wires such as WHITE/BLUE or WHITE/VIOLET/BLUE were made using different colored heat
    shrink tubing pieces slid over both ends of the wire. The HW-101 multi coloredwires had a base color of "WHITE".
    Therefore, a "WHITE'/VIOLET" wire started with a solid WHITE wire then one or two heat shrink tubing
    colors were slide over each end. A WHITE/VIOLET wire had a piece of VIOLET heat shrink tubing slid over
    each end making the wire color WHITE/VIOLET. The same process was used with wires having 3 colors.

    The first HW-101 full restoration works great on all bands. Quite often one or more of the 10 meter HET OSC
    crystals don't oscillate and/or one of the other band's HET OSC crystal is off frequency causing the tuning dial
    to be way off frequency. I was lucky, all 8 of the HET OSC cyrstals oscillate on the fundamental and overtone
    frequencies.

    Fully restoring a radio such as an HW-101 is time-consuming and requires a lot of attention to each step. The
    end result is well worth the effort. I'm fully restoring another HW-101 I have. I'm about 85% done with that
    full restoration. Yes, I ran a completely new wiring harness and replaced the coax cables with new RG-174
    coax in that one too.

    https://w5rkl.com/restored-heathkit-hw-101-2/

    I've taken a break to work on a few other projects. I've noted in the complete HW-101 assembly manual were
    I left off. Having the complete assembly manual is a MUST. I used all new screws, washers, and nuts. I buy them
    in quantities of 100. There are over 135 machine screws, washers, and nuts that hold the 5 PC boards to the chassis
    so buying a few won't cut it. Many of the original nuts, washers, and screws were either corroded and/or rusted.

    73
    Mike W5RKL
    https://www.w5rkl.com
     
    N2EY likes this.
  10. AB2YC

    AB2YC Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Robert Sumption is good, especially for Heathkit

    Another good one fore vintage gear is Mr Carlson's Lab
     

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