Yaesu VX-5R Power Jack Repair

Discussion in 'Radio Circuits, Repair & Performance' started by W8WJW, Jan 21, 2011.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
ad: L-HROutlet
ad: l-rl
ad: Left-2
ad: Subscribe
ad: Left-3
ad: L-MFJ
  1. W8WJW

    W8WJW Ham Member QRZ Page

    Greetings all. The power jack has "gone South" on my VX-5R portable. It is possible to replace this jack without losing any more hair, or is it a surface-mount nightmare? Can anybody suggest how they repaired their VX5R POWER jack; OR, is the better (or less expensive) alternative to purchase a stand-alone battery chanrger? Or recommend a shop that will do this repair at a reasonable cost?

    Now I know why I love my old Regency 1970's mobile rigs - parts that you can see and easily remove and replace!
  2. KE4FSL

    KE4FSL Ham Member QRZ Page

    How did the jack "go south"? Does the on screen voltage display show that you have it plugged in, or does it continue to register the battery voltage?

    The VX-5 adapter's end tip (the plastic ring off the end), has a tendency of breaking off the tip and sticking down in the power jack. If this has happened, then it will prevent another connector from going all the way into the jack and making good contact. And it won't shake out, you have to go in with a sewing needle and pick it out by sticking the "doughnut" and pulling it out that way.

    The other way I have seen them die is when they have a bad solder joint on the board. That can be fixed as well. It is on the BOTTOM board on the back, so there is some work to do to get to it.

    Six #0 size Phillips screws on the back (two at the top, and four under the battery pack), remove them and gently pry the front half away from the back half, pulling it off to the left side of the back half as there is a ribbon connector holding the two together. The ribbon connectors are released by pulling the little brown/gray flaps up, and removing the clamping pressure on the ribbon cable.

    Once the cables are off the boards, pull the volume and VFO knobs off the top, and remove the nuts that are holding in the potentiometer and the encoder that were hiding below the knobs. Now remove the screws on that board, and it will tilt up and lift out.

    The bottom board has another ribbon connector that needs to be removed, do so, and then gently remove the two standoffs and screws that are holding down that board. At this point, the jumper to the SMA connector will need to be unsoldered. Once you have the board out, you can either repair the bad solder joint, or replace the damaged connector.

    I may have one or two of those connectors, as well as the whole bottom board. If you feel up to digging into your radio, and need the part, let me know.
  3. W8WJW

    W8WJW Ham Member QRZ Page

    KE4FSL de K8DAD,
    Yes, it only shows the battery voltage. I did have the plastic end tip sail-off of the Yaesu power plug, and I used a needle, then an Exacto knife to try and remove the circular plastic tip and I apparently damaged the DC connector during this removal operation. I would be interested in an exact replacement part for the connector if you could set me up with one?
    Question is, what exactly do I need in the way of a soldering instrument? I have an adjustable temperature soldering station with a fairly small tip, but I dont' think that it's small enough for Surface Mount hardware, unless your're telling me that this jack doesn't require SMT hardware, but a small tipped iron set to 500 degrees would work? Or do I need to order an extra small tip for my iron, or a whole new iron and/or chemical to remove the SM devices? Please advise. Thanks much,
  4. KE4FSL

    KE4FSL Ham Member QRZ Page

    Yes, it is surface mount, and while you could desolder the old one carefully with a standard iron, you are looking at one connection on one side, and three on the other. The nice thing is it is on the side of the board, and the three connection side is the one on the edge, not towards the middle.

    Now, after looking around in my inventory of parts, I do have a whole bottom board. Back when I had a bunch of VX-5s, I accumulated a few spare parts rebuilding the ones that couldn't handle my rough treatment.

    I will be glad to send you one, and this will keep you from having to hit it with a soldering iron at all (except for the antenna connection, which has a fairly large solder pad.

    Just PM me with the address you want me to send it to.

    Attached Files:

  5. WB6ODR

    WB6ODR Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Ed, Can you tell me what tool you used to remove the nuts under the controls please. I've got my VX-150 down that far but don't have anything that will fit the little spanner nuts. I have an intermintent connection to the main board from my 4 conductor jack on one HT and the finals are gone on the other HT.

    73 de Bob WB6ODR, Prescott, AZ
  6. KE4FSL

    KE4FSL Ham Member QRZ Page

    I have a spanner wrench, but have also used an old "botched up" pair of "Nippy Cutters" from RadioShack. Almost any small diagonal pliers or micro needle nose pliers will work, as well as snap ring pliers. Just span to the two notches with the tips of the pliers, and twist CCW.
  7. M0JVW

    M0JVW Ham Member QRZ Page

    Hi, wonder if you.have an AF board for a.VX-5 ( the one above.the bottom board with rotary controls attached ) mine has been butchered by a "screwdriver wizard". Thanks in advance.
    John M0JVW
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page