What type of 240v cord comes with the Palstar LA-1K?

Discussion in 'Amateur Radio Amplifiers' started by KF3FRK, Jan 20, 2019.

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  1. KF3FRK

    KF3FRK XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    I have an LA-1K on it's way. It can run on 120 or 240v and I'm told it comes with power cords for both so the end user can decide which way to hook it up. The amp I'm replacing has been running on 120v but I have an 240v receptacle in the shack, I've just never used it. I know there are many different receptacle types for various uses on 240v. If mine is not compatible, I want to switch it out while I'm waiting for the amp. Could someone with an LA-1K tell me what style plug comes with it?
     
  2. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    3BB627E1-A388-4A39-8617-140DB795DF9F.jpeg
    FIRST, Palstar has an Internet product page ... Download and Read the Manual.
    Your e-mail address is required for download.
    http://www.palstar.com/en/product-manuals/manual_la1k.pdf

    SECOND, Rear Panel of PA-1K HF Amplifier uses an IEC 60320 Standard receptacle (C20, AC power inlet) for Global Appliances and Medical Equipment.
    3424769C-EFCC-493D-A33F-25D957BCC708.jpeg
    That C20 connector on LA-1K is rated for 20A at 120 VAC and 10A at 240 VAC.
    The Palstar cable sets (120VAC, 240 VAC) are properly wire for using the standard NEMA 5 (120VAC) and NEMA 6 (240VAC) straight blade receptacles (North America).

    NEMA 6 connectors (North America) are Straight Blade for 240 VAC.
    NEMA 5 connectors (North America) are Straight Blade for 120 VAC,
    you are familiar with NEMA 5 (and ungrounded NEMA 1-15) used everyday.

    ==
    THIRD, your amateur radio shack should have either a NEMA 6-15R (15 amp) or NEMA 6-20R (20 amp) receptacle to support HF Amplifiers (240 VAC, Plug-N-Play).
    You can support ANY Global HF amplifier (1000 to 1500 watts), on the market, by using NEMA residential/commercial AC Electrical outlets / receptacles
    NO HACKING REQUIRED.
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector#NEMA_6

    422D6C7B-E478-4DFE-9AF9-43F19BD57214.gif
    NEMA 6-15R (Receptacle, Outlet) for 240 VAC, 15 Amps.
    The 6-15 resembles the 5-15 (120 VAC), but with collinear horizontal pins,
    spaced 23⁄32 in (18.256 mm) center-to-center.

    NEVER use NEMA 5 Receptacles for 240 VAC circuits.

    IF you install a 240VAC, 20 Amp circuit, THEN use the T-Slot version of NEMA 6-20R receptacle.
    That version permits usage with NEMA 6-15P (15 amp) and NEMA 6-20P (20 amp) plug’s !

    F54BE0FA-9E9F-496E-94E1-1314D3272040.gif
    NEMA 6-20R (Receptacle, outlet) for 240 VAC, 20 Amps (T-slot version)
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
    VE2GCE likes this.
  3. W1QJ

    W1QJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    A nema 20 amp 250v T type receptacle takes 15 or 20 amp plugs so it’s nice to install one of them on your 20 amp line to cover both types in one.
     
    W9GB likes this.
  4. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    My take:

    The plug is often easier to change than the outlet, and plugs don't cost much - even Home Depot has all the standard ones.

    If the outlet doesn't match the supplied plug, I'd change the plug.:p
     
    WE6C and AD5HR like this.
  5. KF3FRK

    KF3FRK XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Thank you all. I have a 20A 250V circuit but the previous home owner (an electrical engineer) installed a non-typical receptacle for use on a piece of woodworking equipment. I will purchase and install the proper NEMA 6-20R t-slot receptacle.
     
  6. KF3FRK

    KF3FRK XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Thank you for all of the good info.

    For what it's worth, I did consult the product page and manual on Palstar's webpage. I also consulted every retailer's pages that I could find who sell the amp. Finally, I asked the question directly to Palstar yesterday but was hoping to not have to wait until Monday for an answer since I have the day off today and the time to swap out the receptacle. Perhaps the info is in the manual, but I've looked again and still can't find it.
     
  7. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    The maximum amperage for 1500-watt (legal limit) HF amplifiers, wired for 240 VAC,
    is 10 to 15 amps. Ideal for the “Type G” UK standard with 240V, 13 amp circuit.
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets

    The non-typical receptacle was likely an obsolete receptacle from before 1970.
    https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/NorthAm2.html
    I have seen these. Hubbell mfg. some these, until NEMA became accepted.

    The house, where I grew up, was built in 1920 and Knob-n-Tube home wiring.
    Many farms in area had 240 volt 3-phase, but with a variety of non-NEMA plugs post-WW2.
    https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/NorthAm3.html
    Most of these were removed or updated in 1970s.
    B60A1F07-E742-4A4F-8A05-4D819D5B8C07.png
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
  8. KF3FRK

    KF3FRK XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Thank you Greg. The new t-slot 6-20R is installed and ready for the new amp, when it gets here. The circuit breaker was already a 20A so this was a pretty easy upgrade.
     
    W9GB likes this.
  9. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    21AAA5CA-ACDC-4D03-B760-EDFC38B1DD18.png
    Fred -

    How did the Palstar LA-1K installation go? Enjoying QRO operation?

    greg
    62241DC4-55DF-44C5-9880-42E84A459D8D.png
     
  10. KF3FRK

    KF3FRK XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Hi Greg, I have the LA-1K up and running and I have very much enjoyed it. My old amp was a Heathkit SB-1000. I love not needing to re-tune when changing bands or frequencies, the auto band switching, and that I can flip it on and go right away. I've gotten pretty good audio reports.

    The installation did not go as smoothly as I'd have liked. I initially hooked it up to the 120V line and it ran just fine. I was waiting for the 240V extension cord to arrive, which I had ordered to get the power from the wall outlet to the radio desk. It came a few days later and then the problem surfaced. When connected to 240V, it would just blink on/off/on/off over and over. Having never used the 240V outlet in the shack before and since I had put in a new receptacle, assumed that the problem was with the line. I ran tests on the circuit and everything looked fine. I worked with the tech at Palstar and it started to look like a hardware problem. When examining the amp, I found a small dent on the side pane, which coincidentally was near the power supply board. Palstar mailed me a new power supply board (they were great to work with) and I had it installed and running on 240V about 10 minutes after it arrived. I knocked out the dent with a rubber hammer. It now looks and operates as a brand new one should. The shipping box had no damage so the damage is a little bit of a mystery.
     

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