What is the best solder for re-flowing solder joints on these old radios?

Discussion in '"Boat Anchor" & Classic Equipment' started by KD0YSX, Oct 6, 2021.

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  1. KA5IPF

    KA5IPF Ham Member QRZ Page

    I never could get Kester to work for me. I use Ersin Multicore 63/37. Cleanup with 90% alcohol.
     
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  2. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    COMPLETELY Remove Old Solder and CLEAN PC Board Area (Flux Remover, High % Alcohol).

    IF you can get the original ERSIN Multicore Solder, it is quite Good.
    Surplus Sales of Nebraska had some, but it sold FAST.

    ERSIN Multicore Data Sheet for list of their most popular solders.
    https://www.digikey.com/htmldatasheets/production/1915561/0/0/1/Properties-of-Solders.pdf
    Properties of Solder (PDF attached, below)

    Henkel (Loctite brand) bought out ERSIN (UK)
    Loctite Solder sold at Mouser and Digi-Key
    CHECK the Loctite series you desire.
    ==
    5E11477A-3E5E-4CDE-A0C2-4BAB5B18E1BE.jpeg
    For KESTER , I use their Pocket Paks® , now Exclusively sold by NTE Electronics, Inc.
    https://www.nteinc.com/kester/pocket-paks.php

    Pocket Paks® FLYER
    https://www.nteinc.com/kester/pdf/kester-pocket-paks.pdf
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 6, 2021
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  3. KI4ZNV

    KI4ZNV Ham Member QRZ Page

    There are plenty of good solders out there. Ersin Multicore is fine. Kester is fine. Just stick to 63/37 and to RMA or RA rosin flux.
    If you rework something soldered with 60/40 with 60/37 you DO get some weird setting characteristics because you've now got an alloy that is between the two, but it's not a real problem and you will still be able to get a nice shiny joint.

    Lead-free solder is a mess because there are a thousand different kinds and they can't be mixed with one another and they can't be mixed with leaded solder. And you cannot inspect connections by eye because crystallized joints and good joints look pretty much the same. Lead-free solder is a major pain for any kind of rework because you spend so much time removing old solder before putting new on. Just say no.
    --scott
     
  4. KW4H

    KW4H Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    Kester 44 here, and also have another roll of a different brand that's 60/40. Either has always worked fine for me. For re-flowing joints one of the keys (in my experience, anyway) has been to clean off the existing joint as much as possible -- for that I use a Hakko vacuum desoldering gun and suck off as much as possible -- the Hakko vacuum gun often makes the difference between sloppy work and something professional-looking — never had much luck with desoldering braid. Depending on the placement and size of the old work, I might dab a bit of extra flux onto the joint and then the new solder flows like butter and is nice and shiny. YMMV.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2021
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  5. KA5IPF

    KA5IPF Ham Member QRZ Page

    A Pace de-soldering station is the one of the best investments I ever made. Pricey but over 30 years paid for itself.
     
    WA0CBW, K1LKP, KW4H and 1 other person like this.
  6. WG7X

    WG7X Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    How did you know that? Were you watching me way back then?

    Man, it's getting so that you can't get away with anything now. :rolleyes:
     
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  7. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

  8. KI4ZNV

    KI4ZNV Ham Member QRZ Page

    Which Pace do you have? I have one at work which is great for working on through-hole boards, but clogs up very quickly when removing vast amounts of solder from turret terminals and tube sockets.
    --scott
     
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  9. KA5IPF

    KA5IPF Ham Member QRZ Page

    MBT-250 with all attachments. The secret to large scale unsoldering is dumping the tube frequently and running the tip cleaner everytime you dump. On the older non heat sensitive stuff I may run the temp up to 800. otherwise it stays at 700 and keep the tip tinned.
     
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  10. KF5FEI

    KF5FEI Ham Member QRZ Page

    I still have a partial roll of Kapton tape that followed me home 40+ years ago.

    The ladies at work who used desoldering stations daily, would swab the inside of the glass tube with glycerin to keep the solder from sticking to it. Less change of breaking the tube if you don't have to dislodge the solder.
     
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