Waterproof or high abrasion labels

Discussion in 'Homebrew and Kit Projects' started by K9STH, Oct 25, 2018.

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  1. K9STH

    K9STH Platinum Subscriber Volunteer Moderator Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    For labels that need to be waterproof, or might get more than usual abrasion, I have found that using clear "Flex Seal" does a very good job.

    I print the label on card-stock / Bristol board, cut it to size, and then put 2 or 3 coats of clear "Flex Seal" on the surface. Then, a coat on the back. The label is held in place using one of the spray adhesives.

    Doing so puts a relatively thick, but clear, coating that can withstand water, abrasion, etc.

    Glen, K9STH
    KL7KN likes this.
  2. K3XR

    K3XR Ham Member QRZ Page

    That's an interesting use for Flex Seal. Used it within the last couple of years for some antenna work spraying the connections after using a good quality Scotch brand electrical tape. Often times products get much hype on TV ads which may or may not be justified will keep a check on it to see how it holds up.
    KL7KN likes this.
  3. AA7QQ

    AA7QQ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Flexseal is just the same rubberized undercoating you get at the autoparts store.

  4. KL7KN

    KL7KN Ham Member QRZ Page

    Thanks for the tip!

    I've always just used clear packing' the label.
  5. AA3EE

    AA3EE Ham Member QRZ Page

    The P-Touch labels with "high strength" adhesive are awesome. I have my name and phone # on my whitewater kayak paddle. It's been there about 7 years now through all 4 seasons. I even hit a rock hard enough to gouge the fiberglass shaft right through the label, and it's still stuck good.
  6. VK2TIL

    VK2TIL Ham Member QRZ Page

    I use Marbig Quick Laminate, a self-adhesive lamination sheet; it's very tough.


    The product may not be available outside Australia but I'm sure that there are other brands of self-adhesive laminate sheet.

    The case label and the probe labels in the photo were done in this manner;

    [​IMG]upload images to url

    as was the label here;


    Whilst very tough, it is not waterproof as water/liquid can seep into the cut edges; for bench equipment that doesn't matter.

    If tough and waterproof were required, I would use another lamination on the back and leave a narrow sealed edge where the front sheet adheres to the back sheet.
    DK7OB and VE3TMT like this.
  7. K6DWI

    K6DWI Ham Member QRZ Page

    I've always have used this company for my outdoor labeling needs, both inkjet and laser labels.
  8. KF5FEI

    KF5FEI Ham Member QRZ Page

    We use a special mylar labels and thermal printer for our product labels at work. Pretty durable, considering they are exposed to fuel and high temps. Usually have to scrape them off with a razor and use goo-gone to remove the adhesive.
  9. WB0RIO

    WB0RIO Ham Member QRZ Page

    You could go old-school and buy a set of metal punches with letters and numbers.
    Or find someone with an NC mill and cut the labels into your panels.
    I usually use a P-Touch label machine for my project labels, if the label wears off, just print another.

    The only complaint I have about the P-Touch machine is that it wastes a ton of expensive label stock
    at the end of the printout. That problem can be overcome by printing all of the labels at once, then pulling the power
    plug as soon as you see the last label come out. Cheap to the last drop.
  10. KF5FEI

    KF5FEI Ham Member QRZ Page

    Our oilfield instrumentation panels were engraved with a Hermes engraver, anodized, then a lady with a Rapidograph filled in the letters with India ink.

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