Upgrading an old Icom PS15

Discussion in 'Homebrew and Kit Projects' started by AE5DX, Jul 27, 2017.

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  1. AE5DX

    AE5DX Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Seeing all these cool little DMM displays all over the place, Amazon, Ebay etc makes me want to do little projects with them. First, the little 1"x 2" green LED voltage displays came out. I put one in the dash of my golf cart to monitor the batteries. Worked out great, and I'd catch myself watching the voltages go down and even up higher when I was coasting.

    Then, I see the volt/amp displays, red and blue LEDs with the current shunt. Cool, but they didn't appeal to me as much. Then I started seeing the larger black-framed multi-voltage/current/power/energy displays with the cool blue backlighting and immediately thought about my old drab, Icom PS15 power supply. It's just a heavy metal black box that sat next to my old 720A, and now my IC7300. What a way to "wake it up" a bit!

    KB9OAK, KD8UYQ and AF6LJ like this.
  2. AF6LJ

    AF6LJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Nice work, looks great. :)
    AE5DX likes this.
  3. AE5DX

    AE5DX Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    It still needs some "detail" work. The shunt inside needs to be mounted better. Right now it's just laying in there, wrapped in electrical tape! :eek: Gotta figure out a way to mount it so it's stable, away from everything and has adequate air flow. I may add a small fan too.
    AF6LJ likes this.
  4. AF6LJ

    AF6LJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    A small fan is a good idea.
    AE5DX likes this.
  5. KP4SX

    KP4SX Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Good job!
    I added an incoming AC voltmeter and an outgoing DC voltmeter to mine. I have a problem with low AC voltage at times and the PS will drop out of regulation. Now I can monitor it!
    I added a switch to select between 100v tap-off-120v tap. If I see the incoming AC drop to 108 or less I switch to the 100v tap.

    My old PS15 started audibly humming a while back and so did a friend's. Although I've done everything in the book to mitigate the noise I can't get rid of it completely.
    AF6LJ likes this.
  6. AE5DX

    AE5DX Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Mine has been recapped. All four large electrolytics, including that giant, 56,000uF cap have been replaced. Mine started acting up a year or so ago, shutting down if the current draw exceeded 10A. I was also getting signal reports that my signal was heavily distorted. I started with the 4700uF/16V and 25V caps. No go, so I finally found a replacement 56,000uF 25V, though Chinese. I hope it doesn't go off like a bomb one day.
  7. KD8UYQ

    KD8UYQ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Oh....I like that idea.

    AE5DX likes this.
  8. AE5DX

    AE5DX Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Here's my solution to the current shunt, though I'm still not happy with it. I slid the entire shunt inside some large, thick heatshrink and put the heat gun to it. It's going to be fine, no danger issues of any shorts or contact (the shunt is on the negative output anyway) but I don't like zipties holding anything but wires. I'll have to think about it some more. Meanwhile, I installed a small cooling fan, running off the 12VDC output.
    Reinstalled back into its spot
    Retro baby!
  9. CX1RK

    CX1RK Ham Member QRZ Page

    hi friends, someone know for what R11 (100R) is hot, whitout charge. Whitout nothing conected .

    many thanks 73
  10. KB9OAK

    KB9OAK Ham Member QRZ Page

    Looks good!

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