Station Ground without Ground Rod

Discussion in 'General Technical Questions and Answers' started by W8BKT, Jun 18, 2019.

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  1. W8BKT

    W8BKT Ham Member QRZ Page

    If this has been answered, I can't find it. I live in a mobile home park. All grounding, for the homes, is done with an underground grid system. Power and ground wires go straight from the ground to the breaker box. I am not allowed to install a ground rod.

    How can I connect a station ground with these conditions? I use temporary connections for a dipole antenna, in case of lightning. But, I can't figure out how to run a station ground for the radio, tuner and to manage any static electricity the antenna may feed to the shack. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

    KC8VWM likes this.
  2. KC8VWM

    KC8VWM Ham Member QRZ Page

    I'm trying to envision what you have there exactly.

    Is it something like this?


    The metal box itself should be grounded.
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2019
    N4FZ likes this.
  3. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page


    The electrical utility service ground is really all you need and likely better than any ground rod you could install.
    KU3X, N4FZ and W6KCS like this.
  4. KD0CAC

    KD0CAC Ham Member QRZ Page

    As KC8VWM pictured , there is a ground rod / or should be , I've worked on a bunch of these - and many had broken / disconnected ground wires .
    So check to see [ you may / or need to get an electrician ] if the original ground wire is there & connected .
    Then you can connect your station ground there , add a bus bar for these .
    I would check with park , electrician etc. , to ideally put in more ground rods , at least 3 , one rod length apart .
    RF / antenna grounds require more than mains .

    Dang , there's Steve , good source of info .
    But I would like more grounding , I was in a park and a tree nearby 40' took a direct hit .
    Some where along this , the strike came down the power line into my power post - like picture , and burned the ground wire from my extension cord and stopping at the combiner box in my trailer , that's where the burn stopped , I had extra short 4 " ground rods at the base of 2 HF verticals and at the entrance to my trailer , had to replace the power cord [ only the ground wire burned ] .
    I suspect that the extra grounds may have helped ?
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2019
  5. W6KCS

    W6KCS Ham Member QRZ Page

    If the extra ground rods weren't bonded to the service ground, I would have expected some strike energy to enter one rod, travel through equipment and power cord grounds, to the electrical outlets with their service grounds. Could that have been the path with your extrension cord?

    I wouldn't bother with radio chassis grounding or any "internal" ground bus, since safety ground is taken care of by the equipment ground conductors, but if possible I'd try to keep lightning impulse energy out of the trailer with a good ground at the coax entry that's bonded to whatever is available (service ground etc.)
  6. KF5LJW

    KF5LJW Ham Member QRZ Page

    Ditto Steve, this is stupid simple to answer.

    Assuming your redneck castle was properly wired at the factory, and it should be, all you have to do is use the frame of the trailer. FWIW trailer homes make the best shacks and have perfect Single Point Grounding. The EGC from the service is required to be bonded to the frame. Mount your antenna ground block or ADU to the frame, and for the Station Ground run a wire out the bottom of the floor and bond to the frame. Adding any ground rod would do absolutely nothing. Does not get any better than a Redneck Castle.

    Honestly the only thing you need and required to do is use an antenna ADU mounted directly to the frame where it enters the Redneck Castle. If mounted to the frame no bonding jumper required and installing it on the frame is the absolute best you can do, The only improvement you can make is install a whole house TVSS at the service meter. A ground rod or any additional ground is just a waste of material, will mess things up and buys you absolutely nothing but grief.

    If you insist on a Station Ground which does nothing in your application. os use something like a 3/4-inch copper water pipe from the Orange of Blue box stored, mount it where it is convenient, run a bonding jumper straight down through the floor and bond it to the trailer frame.

    Stupid Simple, don't screw it up by trying to add anything.
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2019
    W6KCS likes this.
  7. W8BKT

    W8BKT Ham Member QRZ Page

  8. W8BKT

    W8BKT Ham Member QRZ Page

    20190618_150559.jpg Here's my situation.
    20190618_150559.jpg 20190618_150528.jpg 20190618_150559.jpg

    This is what it looks like
    N4FZ and KC8VWM like this.
  9. KC8VWM

    KC8VWM Ham Member QRZ Page

    Well shoot, what's that big fat juicy bare copper wire I see there?


    Ever seen one of these at the hardware store?


    It fits rights over the wire...

    Last edited: Jun 18, 2019
    WQ4G and N4FZ like this.
  10. W8BKT

    W8BKT Ham Member QRZ Page

    1) Wasn't absolutely sure that was a ground wire
    2) Wasn't sure how to tap into it efficiently, if it is a ground wire.

    Thanks for the help. And, why not just use the frame of the home for ground, as mentioned above?

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