Solar charge controller QRM mitigation?

You got all kind of problems. At 1800 watts operating into 12 volt battery is nucking futs, dangerous, and a huge waste of money. To run 1800 watts of panel at 12 volt battery requires 2 very expensive ($600 per unit) 80-amp charge controllers. 1800 watts into 12 volts is 150 -Amps.

At 1800 watts you are into 24 and 48 volt battery. At 24 volts with 1800 watts would require a single $600 80-Amp Controller. Smart money with 1800 watts of panels uses 48 volt battery using a much smaller and less expensive 40-Amp Controller less expensive. Not only would it save you over $1000 just in controller cost, but save hundreds more with much smaller wiring, and a lot less hardware.

I am not even going to address the 1000-pound 12 volt 1500 AH battery monster required to handle that panel wattage. Hope you have a fire extinguisher and lots of baking soda handy.

 

1800 watts would require a large capacity controler / battery to store the power..... but from my understanding, the op wants the extra capacity to compensate for differing solar outputs in different locations.

BUT back to the noise problem: It is almost always due to the controller, especially those from China. For whatever reason, Chinese made controllers are often not compliant with US FCC regulations..... it's the same story as Chinese Florescent Ballasts, Wall-wart transformers, and a bunch of their manfactured goods. The solution is simple: look at the info label on the device. If it's made in the US, AND is listed as FCC compliant, then it's probably good. If it doesn't say it's compliant, then it's not. Even if it says it is compliant, but is made in China, it still may not be.... so stick with good equipment. Here is a link to US Solar Manufacturers: http://energy.sourceguides.com/businesses/byGeo/US/byP/solctl/byB/manufacturers/manufacturers.shtml

In my work I've built a number of solar systems for various governmental agencies, and most of them are adamant about not using Chinese-made controlers in critical systems. My entire shack is solar powered, and it has virtually zero QRM from the system..... i attribute it's quietness to the folks who built the components.

 

This has been talked about before on qrz, look at some of the previous post.
I go to Quartzsite AZ, every year for a week with hundreds of RVs and hams, as soon as the sun comes up and the controller/inverter come on, the man-made noise goes from S1 to 20 over 9.

I've done work with Xantrex, even some of their units have problems because of inferior Chinese products, with every every shipment quality of the components change. I should say the quality control varies based on all the counterfeit inferior Chinese parts. All the US manufacturers have the same problem even though their unit has been FCC type approved/accepted, the components still change and they lose control the product.

Inverter generators even the Hondas have problems. 90% of the controllers on even high-end motor coaches create tremendous RFI problems.
Check some of the other post on qrz.
http://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/qrm-solarpanel-inverters.664689/#post-5123495

 

The other problem is, even if you get your system to work with limited noise, if you go to an RV park anywhere, you are going to be confronted by all your neighbors junkie controllers and inverters. It's a terrible ongoing problem for HF mobile RVers and is getting worse all the time. I've seen the noise level go from reasonable to terrible in the past 3 to 5 years. Especially where there is anyone using solar panels or inverters of any kind, 12 battery chargers, inverter generators, or any kind of AC/DC controllers. Also don't forget all modern motorhomes and RVs use LED lighting which also can create enormous problems for you.

 

Common mode chokes, perhaps some differential mode chugs, I just ordered a 23 amp system rated at 120 V AC, To deal with a inverter generator.

Roxburgh EMI input filter, 120/240 VAC, 1-phase, 23A, panel mount, EMI/RFI filtering, multi-stage, drive rated, very high performance, screw terminals. For use with 1-phase AC drives.



At my house I have 9 kW of solar, and outback gear. There is some interference, but it is tolerable

I had added some filters at the output of the inverter which helped, but then I burned out an inverter!

Guess that inductive load wasn’t what the output system expected to see!


Tread lightly here.

These systems thrive on high efficiency which reduce waste and heat, and high-efficiency requires very fast switching times, which basically means you are running a broadband transmitter.

 

As was mentioned stick with Morningstar. They just about own the industrial remote RF control market because they are RF-friendly and so reliable.

 

I must have been sleeping in the class that covered it. I honestly thought that if I connect 4 x L-16 6 volt batteries in series that I would have a 24 volt battery bank. Back to school for me.

If you read my post you must have overlooked my mention of being over paneled as I do spend time in areas that are not ideal for solar. Seattle for example. I also mentioned that I am planning on using the charge current limiting feature on the Midnite Classic.

One relevant item that I had not mentioned is that the panels will be flat mounted. I will never see full nameplate output.

 

Things have changed more than I had expected in the 19 years that I have been away from Ham radio.

LOTS of new QRM generators to deal with.

I am building almost from scratch. I can pick and choose components. Regarding LED lighting. I will be running 12 volt LEDs. Are they as bad as the 120vac LED lights?

Regarding QRM from the neighbors, I spend much more time boondocking than in RV parks. No worries there. Unless I decided to run my HF rig from my starting batteries and run them down while I am camping at my favorite spot up in the mountains.

Thanks for the input.

 

Thank you all for your replies.

I do have one favor to ask of a few of you. Please read my post before replying.

Thank you.

 

I understand.

I am looking at 3" cores of mix 31.

Positive and negative run side by side through the core with a minimum of four turns around the core.

Am I getting close?

Thanks