*Should I send my TenTec to the factory for service...

Discussion in 'General Technical Questions and Answers' started by WA0MNA, Dec 8, 2015.

ad: L-HROutlet
ad: l-rl
ad: Subscribe
ad: Left-3
ad: Left-2
ad: abrind-2
ad: L-MFJ
  1. WA0MNA

    WA0MNA Ham Member QRZ Page

    Greetings. Would really like to get this repaired, Model 564...but with all the stuff going on with TT, I think it might be a real bad idea to send them my rig now. I HAVE NOT CALLED THEM...I am looking for the scoop from actual rig owners, etc. * I do not know of any other source for TT service and repair!! TNX 73
  2. KD8DEY

    KD8DEY Ham Member QRZ Page

    Yup I would wait till I know the "New" TT has stabilized, or find somewhere else....
  3. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    The 564 is the OMNI-VI+ and most know TT rigs by their "names" rather than numbers.

    That's a really reliable rig. What seems to be the problem with it?
  4. WA4NJY

    WA4NJY Ham Member QRZ Page

    I can highly recommend The Radiosmith here in Florida. Check his e-ham reviews. He did a nice job on my OMNI V.

  5. K0RGR

    K0RGR Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    You might drop them a line. I had a problem with my VI+ recently, and they were able to help me fix it via email. I actually had the info I needed, they pointed it out to me on the schematics. If you do have to send it to them, they want the whole radio - can't fix individual boards.

    I somehow managed to pop the transistor that handles the PTT and external CW keying. It wasn't that gruesome to change it. Biggest problem was figuring out how to take it apart, which turned out to be much easier than I was making it. The part numbers used are actually on the schematic.

    With the current changes, I'd definitely drop them an email. It can't hurt.
  6. K3XR

    K3XR Ham Member QRZ Page

    It is a very reliable rig did send mine back about 2 years ago for a bad crystal resulting in 17 meters not working and of course had it brought up to specs while it was there. Still one of my favorites on CW. I would at least call first and see what the story is with the new company etc.
  7. WA9WVX

    WA9WVX Ham Member QRZ Page

    From a source of mine ... the head repair tech they let go TEN TEC is only working on government contracts, has nothing in the pipe for ham radio. All of the experienced ham radio technicians were let go. I would hold off till the 1 ST Quarter of 2016 before returning your HF transceiver to TEN-TEC. There's an announcement to be made after January 1, 2016 on the State-of-TEN-TEC as a company.
  8. WA0MNA

    WA0MNA Ham Member QRZ Page

    Thanks for the info. I turn on the set, lights up-audio plays for a second or two-then silence. Freq. display then appears to change brilliance a hair.Turning it off and back on will "reset" the process. When this started the "reset" would last for 20-30 minutes now it is down to a couple seconds if that. Also thanks for the tip on the repair guy.
    Open to any suggestions on this, it is a real cool radio. Thanks 73
  9. W0AAT

    W0AAT XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Sounds like a bad eletrolytic capacitor... I see a lot of 16 volt electrolytics off the power rails, also saw a mention soemwhere of the tin shields having bad solder connections that I would check first. Be an easy fix if that is all it is.
  10. WB5YUZ

    WB5YUZ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Or a bad semi-conductor, probably somewhere on the IF/Audio Board, and just maybe in the audio final.

    You need some way to trace the audio signal. An oscilloscope is good, and a pair of high-impedance headphones or one of those crystal earphones they used to sell with cheap transistor radios may work in a quiet room. IIUC there is the balanced modulator, then a notch filter, then a DSP microprocessor, then the final amp. When the problem is occurring, check for audio on the output pin of the balanced modulator, which is pin 6 of U3. If you have audio there, the problem must be further down the line.

    You can also check for audio at the input of the final amplifler, U8. From the schematic, it looks like it is pin 7. And, with most radios that use analog volume controls, you can check for audio on the input or output pin of the volume control.

    I think you can also check for voltage on pin 1 of U8 when the problem is not occurring, and compare it to a voltage reading taken when the problem is occurring. I say "I think" because I am having a little trouble reading the online schematic.

    Among the suspect electrolytics are C37, 38, 40, 41, 42, and 43.

    Good luck! Let us know what you find.

Share This Page