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Saint George

Discussion in 'Amplitude Modulation' started by W7TFO, Mar 9, 2017.

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  1. W7TFO

    W7TFO Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    MORE GEORGE PARTS!

    24' of 2X6 .250 aluminum channel.

    Now to cut it up and make more extender rails.

    Then...drum roll...more powder coat!

    73DG DSC01045 (3).JPG DSC01046 (3).JPG
     
    N2EY and N6YW like this.
  2. WA3VJB

    WA3VJB Ham Member QRZ Page

    I completely dismantled a Collins 300-G that had suffered an internal harness fire. There was really no way to save it, so Ser. No. 30 has become a transplant donor to keep others on the air. But this discussion of authentic old-style hardware affirms my interest now nearly 20 years ago in saving all the pieces from Old No. 30. I even pulled off the ring lugs from the wiring loom, knowing I would never again see tinned, solid copper terminations like that. And all the beautiful stainless steel machine nuts & bolts, precise threads, no slag or distortion, cannot be found new today at any price.
     
  3. W7TFO

    W7TFO Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Terminals. Indeed---those proper for the era w/cloth covered wire.

    I can buy new cloth wire in any gage/color needed, but the terminals just about have to be NOS.

    Thomas & Betts still makes certain styles, but they are not widely distributed.

    73DG
     
    WA3VJB likes this.
  4. WD0BCT

    WD0BCT Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Reminds me of the Westinghouse meters we used in high school only they were packaged in pretty wooden cases...and were heavy. I often wonder what happened to those instruments. I recall a rather hefty 3PH wattmeter complete with associated CTs and PTs and wiring diagrams. Prior to using these meters in labs we had to take a course in meter movements. This was long before digital read outs. And when digital did appear it was with NIXIE tubes.
     
  5. W6ELH

    W6ELH Ham Member QRZ Page

    Just came across this. What an interesting project, and my goodness, you do nice work!

    I think I need to pop some popcorn and stay tuned! Cheers... Jim W6ELH
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. W7TFO

    W7TFO Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Hi Ed,

    Meters have always been special to me, at least up to the 50's. Plastic jobs are best left alone.

    Thanks Jim,

    Pushing all the parts together to replicate an 80-year old ham rig is indeed a labor of love.

    Here is a shot of a hoard of 'S' series 6" Westies I saved from a recycler.

    73DG meters.jpg
     
    N6YW likes this.
  7. KD2ACO

    KD2ACO Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber Life Member QRZ Page

    Looks like grazing sheep!
     
    N6YW likes this.
  8. WZ5Q

    WZ5Q Ham Member QRZ Page

    Oh my that is sexy... I had to go take a shower.
     
  9. WD0BCT

    WD0BCT Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    I believe this effort is quite a bit above the average DIY process.
    I would say it's DIY TOW......Do It Yourself...The Original Way.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. K4KYV

    K4KYV Subscriber QRZ Page

    How do you attach your surface-mount meters to the panel?

    The Jewell surface-mounties in my HF-300 rig come with no additional mounting hardware, other than the two threaded terminals. They were originally meant to be mounted on a non-conductive material, like bakelite or hard rubber. The original BC transmitter built in the rig's cabinet mounted its meters behind the metal panel, on bakelite sub-panels secured in place with stand-offs, with a round hole cut in the panel and a thin plate-glass window separating the meter body from the panel. This allowed the meters to be wired right in the hot +HV leads and carry the full high voltage, but not be accessible to accidental contact. Problem with that system was that the zero-adjust screw was totally inaccessible without dismounting and re-mounting the entire assembly each time a meter needed adjustment. Another problem, the maximum plate voltage in the original transmitter was +1250v but the plate voltage in my homebrew transmitter runs +2500v on the modulator and +2000v on the final; I was concerned that +2500v or +2000v fully modulated with extra head-room, might arc through the thin glass plates. I used the original bakelite sub-panels, but bolted them directly to the back side of the front panel behind the meter holes, using the threaded terminals to secure the meters to the sub-panels the usual way, except for washers the same thickness as the panel material to space the meters to line up with the exterior side of the front panel. With this arrangement the metal cases of the meters are essentially grounded to the panel, so plate and grid current meters have to be wired at low voltage points in the circuit, but I have them configured to read true grid and plate current, not cathode current. This requires a separate filament transformer for each tube.
     

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