re-stuffing multisection capacitors

Discussion in '"Boat Anchor" & Classic Equipment' started by W5INC, Mar 19, 2019.

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  1. KK6IYM

    KK6IYM Ham Member QRZ Page

    I leave the capacitor in place and cut the top off at or just above the crimp with a hacksaw blade--not in the saw. I then set the can on top of an antique clothing iron stand on the wood stove until the guts are ready to easily be removed. Then I file both the base and the edges of the can to square things up. I assemble my capacitor package, careful to not have any of the leads where they can touch the exposed metal cases. I drill some small holes from the bottom or top through the base near the terminals--watching so I don't damage any components or wires below the bottom of the can. As part of my capacitor package, I add longer insulated #20 solid wire leads of appropriate colors (so I can keep track of the values). Now I push the leads through the holes and assemble the stacked capacitor package on the base--and then see if the can top fits properly. I mark the leads below the chassis for stripping the ends and pull it all back apart for stripping. After stripping, I reinsert and attach the leads to the appropriate terminals below the base and solder--including a lead for collected grounds which goes to a tab on the capacitor base or nearby terminal. To re-attach the top of the can, I use aluminum tape. A piece about 1/2" wide is wrapped around the base--pulling it tight and even as I go, but not getting overly concerned about some wrinkles. My final process is to use a wooden chopstick to firmly press the tape against the can, working it until the wrinkles disappear and the tape is smashed smooth. The aluminum tape matches the aluminum can, isn't obvious, and is easily removed if needed. The components and connections are not changed underneath--just some new wire ends soldered to existing terminals and connections. The process takes the minimum of time, and goes even faster with repeated practice.

    Norm

    Capacitor can 2.png
     
  2. W5INC

    W5INC XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Rubycon makes some pencil capacitors called the TXW series. Of course they don't have the exact specification I am looking for as I need to stuff 3 electrolytic caps into 1 can. A 50 uf @ 200V, next a 2000 uf @ 25Vs and a 2000 uf @ 20 volts. I don't believe regular sized capacitors will fit back into the aluminum can and keep it stock looking. Anyone else make miniature capacitors like Rubycon does?
     
    W1BR likes this.
  3. KP4SX

    KP4SX XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Nichicon UCS-series but I don't know if these are available in those values. Check Mouser.
    nich.JPG
     
    W1BR likes this.
  4. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    You can use Axial style, in addition to Radial. The 20 and 25 volt models are even sold as Surface mount (easily fitting inside the cylindrical can).

    Re-stuffing Electrolytic Can capacitors
    https://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=vintage&n=171603
    ==
    Cornell-Dubilier Electronics (CDE) headquartered in South Carolina, acquired Illinois Capacitor (IC) a few years ago, to expand their Aluminum Electrolytic products into Axial Lead and Surface Mount types.
    https://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/products.aspx
    ===
    Strategies to Repair or Replace Old Electrolytic Capacitors
    https://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/electrolytics/
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
    N2EY likes this.
  5. WA6SW

    WA6SW Ham Member QRZ Page

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