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Power Options for TYT TH-8600

Discussion in 'Mobile Radio Systems' started by KG5HDB, Feb 4, 2018.

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  1. KG5HDB

    KG5HDB Ham Member QRZ Page

    Even though I have had my license for almost three years now I am just really getting to venture beyond handheld radios. I purchased a TYT TH-8600 a few months ago and I am running it off a MFJ 15 A power supply in my office. I would like to take it along in my truck but do not want to permanently mount it at this time.

    Here is my question for you mobile experts out there. What can I use to power the TYT without having to permanently hooking up to my trucks battery. I have been looking for options and seem to be hitting a dead end or looking in the wrong places. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


    Doug Underwood
  2. N1PJS

    N1PJS Ham Member QRZ Page

    I use one of these for my Leixen 25 watt mobile. Just make sure you check your vehicles manual for the amp rating of the one you want to use. The one I use is rated at 15 amps, so it’s pleny enough for the low 4-5 amp draw at 25 watts.

    Not the best way to do it, but it works for me, especially since I mostly use mine as a reciever.
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
  3. AI7PM

    AI7PM Ham Member QRZ Page

    Why not go ahead and set up the power for the future permanent install? #12 or 10 straight to the positive post, with appropriate fuse at the battery. Ground at the chassis under the dash, or as close to the radio as possible. Some people insist on running the negative to the battery as well, but it's not a good idea for many reasons. The closest you'd want to connect to the battery is at one of it's chassis grounding points near the battery.
  4. K3UJ

    K3UJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Get a set of Anderson Power Pole connectors. Terminate the radio, power supply, and vehicle power setup. You'll be able to plug and play.
  5. KG5HDB

    KG5HDB Ham Member QRZ Page

    Thanks for all of the options. I will be looking into each one.


  7. K0BG

    K0BG Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    If you're doing a mid-run splice, it is best to use a small TyRap through the pin holes on both sets of connectors. Should be obvious why.
    AI7PM likes this.
  8. KD4UPL

    KD4UPL Ham Member QRZ Page

    In my opinion the reason you are "hitting dead ends" is there's no reason to avoid hooking to your truck's power. Nobody makes many products or procedures to avoid powering a mobile rig from an automobile because there's no market for that. Everyone just hooks up the "12v" radio to the available power.
    What's your reason for avoiding it?
    The simplest is to use the "cigarette lighter" or power port as they're called now. It's not a great method but it's quick and easy. Otherwise you could tap a large circuit somewhere in the cab. Power seats are often large conductors and conveniently located, particularly if your remote mounting the radio head and put the radio body under a seat.
    The best method, and the one that most everyone uses, is to run a pair of wires to the battery. I've done this on at least 7 vehicles I've owned since being a ham. It normally doesn't take more than an hour to find a path, run the wire, and connect to the battery. This provides a solid connection for good voltage and current flow, reduced likelihood of noise, and reduced clutter of extra gear and batteries in the vehicle.
    Alan's site should give you plenty of ideas on how to do it. If you don't want to run the wires yourself a commercial two-way radio shop or custom car stereo installer could probably due it for you for a small fee. Have them install a fuse block inside the cab and you can connect up anything you want.
    I often end up installing buss bars in my vehicles for stereo amplifiers, CB radio, ham radios, trailer brake controllers, etc.

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