Kenwood TS-830S problem

Discussion in 'General Technical Questions and Answers' started by KF7AYS, Oct 29, 2009.

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  1. WA7PRC

    WA7PRC Ham Member QRZ Page

    I would add that, before poking around the PC boards, you take precautions against Electrostatic Discharge. This rig has lots of early MOS devices (some are made of 'unobtanium') which can easily be destroyed.

    I found that out the hard way with my TS130S, which appears to use many of the same devices as your TS830S.

    73,
    Bryan WA7PRC
     
  2. VE7KGE

    VE7KGE Ham Member QRZ Page

    No output

    I had a similar problem with my ts 830s turned out to be a dirty bandswitch.
     
  3. KF5ELO

    KF5ELO Ham Member QRZ Page

    Keenwood Problems

    This may sound stupid but have you checked the mic wiring. Kenwood hibrids are a litle different in the mic wiring.
     
  4. K3UD

    K3UD Guest

    This is a shot in the dark, but I seem to remember that there was a place for an external VFO in the back of the radio in the 520 and 520s. If you are not using the VFO there was a jumper plug that went into the VFO port. Without the jumper you would think that the the radio would not transmit. I never had a TS-830 but I wonder if the 830 had the VFO port.

    73
    George
    K3UD
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2009
  5. W5RKL

    W5RKL Ham Member QRZ Page

    There is no jumper required on the 830's rear VFO socket. The jumper you speak of, as in the 520 and 820 radios, is a micro switch in the 830's rear VFO din socket. Since the receive is working fine, that micro switch is working just fine, no need to mess with it.

    I agree, the radio needs to be put on the bench.

    I suspect the "DRB" voltage on pin 2 of the driver tube is NOT changing from -43VDC to +.4VDC (-43VDC in receive and +.4VDC in transmit).

    "DRB" means "DRive Bias".

    If the DRB voltage, pin 2 of the driver tube, remains at approximately -43VDC in both transmit and receive, the driver tube will be "cut off" in transmit. This leads to zero RF applied to the final tube grids, zero ALC indication in TUNE mode regardless of the CAR control setting, and zero RF output from the final amplifier, even with 60ma of no-signal final amplifier idling current shown on the IP meter!

    If you find that the DRB voltage does not change between receive and transmit, more than likely the source of your problem is RL1 on the AF UNIT.

    I recommend downloading the 830's high resolution schematic, and start checking voltages, especially the driver tube voltages.

    The TS-830's high resolution schematic is available from N6WK's website. Here's the link to the pdf file.

    http://www.n6wk.com/kenwood/TS-830S-excellent schematic.pdf

    The voltages are in RED. When 2 voltages are together, one inside parens and one not, the voltage in parens is the "transmit" voltage. When only one voltage is present, no parens etc, that voltage is for both

    Stop swapping tubes, you're getting no where doing that. It is quite clear based on the many times you have swapped all of the tubes the problem is NOT a bad tube!

    73s
    Mike W5RKL
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2009
  6. KF7AYS

    KF7AYS Ham Member QRZ Page

    Thanks for all your help guys.

    I will be putting this radio on the bench tomorrow.

    For the record, I have only swapped each tube once...
     
  7. AB9LZ

    AB9LZ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Swapping the PA's out when you aren't sure whats wrong... is a bad idea. The finals need to go through a neutralization procedure, else you'll have (even more) trouble.

    Btw, where you able to successfully tune the thing as per the manual?

    73 m/4
     
  8. N4AUD

    N4AUD Ham Member QRZ Page

    As far as transmitting, you can unplug the 1/4 plug and just flip the "send" button. That will work in any mode. I don't have a key plugged into my TS-520, I just use that send switch.

    When you first turn the rig on and are in receive mode, before you do anything else turn the drive knob back and forth until you find the spot where the noise is the loudest. That's going to get you close to it's proper position.

    Personally, I think this is just a tuning up problem or the tubes were changed and not neutralized. If you know someone with a TS-520, 820 or another 830 that is experienced in using it, go over and watch them tune up, and get them to let you do it several times.
     
  9. N4AUD

    N4AUD Ham Member QRZ Page

    Someone else asked, and it's impossible if there's no output.

    I set my drive by watching the built in meter, but I do the rest of the tune up by watching a separate wattmeter, including dipping the plate. No real reason for it, I just got in the habit of doing it that way.
     
  10. AB9LZ

    AB9LZ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Not so, the mode switch needs to be in the tune position for the send button to key the rig and produce outout, else it's crickets utill you either talk (LSB, USB) or press the plugged in key (CW).

    73 m/4
     
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