ad: vanity

Jeep - Noise from H3ll

Discussion in 'Mobile Radio Systems' started by NG7E, Apr 22, 2011.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
ad: L-HROutlet
ad: l-rl
ad: L-MFJ
ad: Left-3
ad: abrind-2
ad: Left-2
ad: Subscribe
  1. K8MHZ

    K8MHZ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Serpentine belt?

    Could be static from the belt. If the belt is at all close to needing to be replaced, do it before you get into anything elaborate.
  2. NG7E

    NG7E XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Al, thanks for the suggestion, i've done a bit of that, yet the noise seem to be coming for a lot of places. I'll have to spend more time and also email you.
  3. NG7E

    NG7E XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    happy to report that my noise problem has been identified and cured. The noise came from the fuel pump and was cured by placing some toroid cores at the fuel pump. My noise has gone from S7 to about S1-S2.

    I found that if i plug in my cell charger into the cigarette lighter my noise goes back to S9. I guess i'll continue cleaning up the power outlets within my Jeep.

    Thanks to all for providing links and suggestions!!

    73 from W6OCL
  4. K7CJ

    K7CJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Very cool W6OCL. I'll have to see if that is my problem as well. What kind of torrids did you use? Were these the clamp-on kind from RS?

    Also, did you bond in/around the engine compartment any? I'm just curious if you had already done that before the noise fix? I was thinking of bonding a couple of copper straps from the frame to the engine block. I may try the torrid fix first.
  5. NG7E

    NG7E XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    I had done some bonding, but didn't go overboard, if there is such a thing. I'll take some pictures tomorrow and get them posted, i'll also do a better job of documenting what i did.
  6. KF5FEI

    KF5FEI Ham Member QRZ Page

    Way back when, I had a similar issue in a vehicle installation with the electric radiator fan -- a new innovation at the time. A couple of snap-on toroids with a figure-8 (IIRC) winding of wire installed on the positive side of the fan wiring knocked the noise level down to nada.
  7. KE5PPH

    KE5PPH Ham Member QRZ Page

    I don't know of a cure for the cell charger. the pulse charging circuit, bleeds into almost everything especially the AM goodtime radio.
  8. K9PHT

    K9PHT Ham Member QRZ Page

    I roughly have the same problem using my newly installed IC706MKIIG and a TARHEEL II Scredrivr antenna in my 2010 F150 5.4 GAS ENGINE TRUCK. All the simple things have been checked and played with. 50A DC FILTER on 12VDC lead did the best "cover-up" for me .. Ferrite beads at various places did nothing for me... Its about the same noise up to 6M then starts cutting back. FM of course works great. Using the on-board NB filter is the only thing I can do to live with it. I am connected directly to the battery with both leads. Also tried a stand alone battery with same bad results so that tells me most of it being RADIATED and not on the DC CABLES. Still playing with things... I may try mounting the TARHEEL antenna on my POPUP trailer and route RF cable to truck to see what does for me... The back of my POPUP trailer is a good 17-feet back... I guess there is too much ELECTRONICS on the newer vehicles to contend with these day. I have been carrying along a 40M DIPOLE and throwing it up in trees for more signal strength and that works out pretty good...

    I got mine for POPUP tent camping anyway but would be neat using it going down the road sometimes... In the old days grounding the tail pipe and bypassing the coil with caps always did the trick...
  9. K9PHT

    K9PHT Ham Member QRZ Page

    W6OCL - I too would love to see your documentation on the ferrites at the fuel pump. My first big question was do I have to ONLY route the DC POWER CABLE +12VDc LEAD through the ferrite and can I send the whole wiring assy (four wires i think I saw on mine) through the ferrite. To make two or three loops through the ferrite would make you lengthen the cable assy I guess.

    I guess we could pull the fuel pump fuse and pour gas down the carb to keep engine running long enough to see if the fuel pump was doing the RFI...

    This was one of the areas everyone says to place ferrite clip-ons. I ordered the good ones from DX engineering that is good for HF frequencies...
  10. K9PHT

    K9PHT Ham Member QRZ Page

    W7DSS - I have been told by several on here that you need to get FERRITE CLAMP-ON that are designed for HF FREQS... The RADIO SHACK ones are not for HF operations...

    Check out DX ENGINEERING and you can get five to a PACK at four or five different INSIDE DIAMETERs. I ordered the 0ne-inch size. They clamp together just like the RS types... Cost $25 I think for the five in a pack...

    I put them at various places around my TRUCK but nothing helped. I DIDNT DO the FUEL PUMP area so am excited to put some there.

    I have four wires I think going to the FUEL PUMP so was wanting to ask someone if you loop all of the wires thru the FERRITE or only selected ones. Mine doesnt have alot of excess room so I think I will be adding some extra length to the end of the cable ??? Was you thinking of doing three or more loops through the ferrite clamp-on ???
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

ad: wmr-1