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Halli S-108

Discussion in 'Amplitude Modulation' started by AC0OB, Mar 20, 2019.

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  1. AC0OB

    AC0OB Subscriber QRZ Page

    TImtron has a saying, "You want better audio or you want it to stay factory? You have a choice. Keep it factory and let it sound Crappy, or modify it to make it sound better."


    Pheel
     
  2. W4KJG

    W4KJG Subscriber QRZ Page

    K5UJ -- Thank you. I guess I'd put myself into the category of being an impure purist. I'm glad that stoning, lashes, or burning-at-the-stake for such practices are no longer used. :confused:;)

    A few years ago I reworked my late-1950's pinball machine. Before reluctantly bringing it to our local auction house I replaced all the rubber and all the #47 lamps.

    I had found an on-line vendor with compatible LEDs for bayonet-style pilot lamps. I ordered a couple of standard boxes of 12. They were physically exactly the same size as #40/#18xx series pilot lamps. They looked fantastic in the pinball machine.

    At the time, I needed to replace the S-meter lamp in my old Ten Tec 505 Argonaut. It was like an immediate WOW! The S-meter/SWR meter was always difficult to see in regular room light. The LED made it easily readable.

    These LEDs generate very white light. The meter now has a very readable look in all light conditions, including outdoor xOTH expeditions.

    That same TT 505 needed new dial lamps. I couldn't find replacements, but was able to replace them with LEDs. Since the bulbs were held in place inside of short pieces of somewhat yellowed plastic tubing, regular cheapie while LEDs looked the same as the original lamps that were just a little longer than the LEDs.

    I now use direct replacement LED bayonet-style lamps where I feel they are appropriate, like old Hallicrafter sliderule dials. They really make things like old Heathkit VF-1s or DX-100 VFOs look incredible.

    Thanks to K9STH I use some of his great ideas for making old equipment look almost original. Part of Glen's great info is paint color matching. But one of the best things I learned from Glen was ripping out the innards of can-type high voltage electrolytics and replacing the sections with new capacitors and stuffing them into the original cans. My DX-60B looks nearly completely original, but many parts have been replaced.

    Years ago I began by replacing 866 mercury rectifiers with solid state rectifiers. I didn't keep the 866s. But, I replaced a lot of other rectifiers, like 5R4s, 5U4s, 5Y3s, and selenium rectifiers with efficient and safe solid substitutes with appropriate circuits.. I usually leave the tubes in place, but disable their filaments. I love the glow of voltage regulator tubes, but the high voltage zeners of today make great replacements.

    Ken
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
  3. AC0OB

    AC0OB Subscriber QRZ Page

    Depending on their design, they can also generate a lot of RFI.

    Because of that I continue to use #47 and #1815 lamps.


    Pheel
     

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