Discussion in 'On the Road' started by K3WR, Sep 20, 2017.
Excellent write up!
On the other hand, does one really want to screw around with a circuit that stops several thousand pounds from coming through the back window? Not me.
A lot of people never tow with their trucks, or only tow boat and other trailers with surge brakes. And I would have to install a fuse, pigtail, and electric brake controler into my truck before towing a trailer with electric brakes. There is also often a second sizeable circuit for charging the trailer house battery. That one is even less likely to get used unless you tow a RV. In my case, I could hook up after the fuse and before the empty factory socket for the key off isolation relay for always on power, or install the relay and connect after, and only have power with the vehicle on. The down side is that if a trailer were connected, it might still power the rig off the house battery or the runaway trailer battery.
Not many people that I know of use a F-150 as a real truck.
I sure don't use mine with a trailer. You need a real truck for that.
Good point, there's also a ground too in the same harness
Alan's advice on power connection, along with everything else 'mobile". Read and heed.
I found that out personally when I installed the radio system in the FORD SUPERFLEX!!! It seems they have an external SENSE resistor in the lead between the negative battery terminal and ground. This controls the charge from the Alternator.
The alternator stopped charging when I had the radio ground leg on the battery negative terminal.
Once I removed it it started working again. I solved the problem by grounding the radio system to the vehicle chassis ground!!!
11,000 pound tow rating, but hey, what ever makes you feel good about your stuff.
I would recommend doing as the service bulletin suggests. Least chance of ground loop conditions. Fuse both the + and – as close to the bat as possible. However….. there is a hot wire that runs to the 7 pin RV trailer plug. On most models it is hot all the time regardless of key position. Most are at least fused at 20 amps. With a F150 truck you most likely won’t be pulling a RV trailer that utilizes this circuit. Stay away from hacking into the blue brake line. A little stray RF and your trailer is skidding.
11K tow rating... I would go broke. the first 6k used up on the empty trailer only leaving room for about 4 to 5 head cattle. 11K aint that much in the real world of working folks.