Dentron amplifier -is this explanation real?

Discussion in 'Amateur Radio Amplifiers' started by K1OIK, Nov 22, 2019.

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  1. N0TZU

    N0TZU Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    Yes but it’s not intended to allow routine overloading of the circuit for long periods. It allows short term overloads such as starting up a motor, or inrush current to a transformer, etc., without causing a nuisance trip.
    K8MHZ and N2EY like this.
  2. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    The idea of simply running a 240V line (a new one!) is the best idea, Burt.

    I don't know the rules where you are, but here in L.A. homeowners are allowed to do all the house wiring they want, using their own materials, provided you call the "electric company" before actually connecting the wiring at the service panel. One phone call, and they schedule an inspector to come out and look at what you've done. If he approves the wiring, he'll connect it at the panel and hang a tag on it showing it was inspected, along with his ID and the date. They don't charge anything for this.

    And if you do it yourself, it can be very inexpensive. Big Box stores (HD et al.) sell all compatible materials, and even if you run it "outside" in eonduit like I did, a new 240V run can cost $100-$150 or so, including all materials and your own labor.

    Worth it, even if you replace the Clipperton with something else. Any "kW output" class amplifier should be run on 240V. Lower power amps can get away with 120V operation, but usually have better regulation at 240V. The "BIG" amps (legal limit types) almost all are 220-240V only and have no 120V option. My old Henry 4K Ultra, for example, was 240 only, no option for 120V.
    WA7PRC likes this.
  3. W4NNF

    W4NNF XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Oh for--! Burt, my cat knows more about electronics than the Einstein who told you this... It's not accurate. It's not even good enough to be wrong. ;)

    Bottom line? Get an electrician out there stat!
    K1OIK and N0TZU like this.
  4. WA7PRC

    WA7PRC Ham Member QRZ Page

    ^ ^ ^ This ^ ^ ^
    More: for a 240V circuit (L1, L2, GND), use a "NEMA 6" outlet & plug (link). A 20A circuit would use a NEMA 6-20 outlet & plug. 12-2 w/ GND NM (Non-Metallic) wire is rated 20A and dirt cheep. That's what I used. You use a tandem (or dual) breaker so, a fault on either L1 or L2 causes BOTH to be cut off. :)
  5. K1OIK

    K1OIK Ham Member QRZ Page

    I have no clue how to do it as I suspect you would be a fish out of water if you tried to teach and control my 5th grade class.
    W1TRY likes this.
  6. K7JEM

    K7JEM Ham Member QRZ Page

    Burt, it's so easy a fifth grader could do it. Perhaps you can find one somewhere.
    N2EY and W1TRY like this.
  7. WG7X

    WG7X Premium Subscriber QRZ Page


    It's always easy to tell someone else how to do their job. As my wife always says: "Talk is cheap!". One does not have to look very far for instances of this every day.

    "Sidewalk Supervisors Unite! You have nothing to lose but your credibility!"
    N2EY likes this.
  8. WA7PRC

    WA7PRC Ham Member QRZ Page

    If Burt isn't confident he can produce a safe result, I'm OK with him having someone else do it. I've uncovered some VERY sketchy (unsafe) electrical "work" in my house. It was definitely NOT pro work.
    N0TZU likes this.
  9. WA9SVD

    WA9SVD Ham Member QRZ Page

    For those too dense, weasels ARE an endangered species. And WE should NEVER allow our equipment to go "POP!" Maybe there are those out there than have no sense of humor, or any other kind, for that matter. THEY:( have my pity.:rolleyes:
  10. G0JUR

    G0JUR Ham Member QRZ Page

    Interesting thread, I am a little confused by Burt,s reactions to the advice proffered, seems most are concered with his safety, both life and property yet his responses are slightly adverserial considering the possible outcome of continueing to use what appears to be a dangerous circuit.
    Horses and water come to mind.
    WA7PRC and AB8MA like this.

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