Discussion in 'Antennas, Feedlines, Towers & Rotors' started by N4FFL, Dec 28, 2018.
You are 'making rain'.
But very very localized!
Over the years I've used a sledge hammer, T post driver, and a hammer drill. By FAR the hammer drill is the best. The T post driver is better than the sledge hammer but only because you can't miss. All of them will require a ladder to get above the rod to drive in the first four feet.
Having driven in many T-posts for fencing I can testify that poor soil is a b**ch with the driver.
Here is one method I have used several times. What I do is jet the hole, and then put the ground rod in.
Here at CN86jc, the soil down in the low lands is just glacial till, mostly rocks of various types and sizes, packed in amongst a little bit of dirt. Had to bury a kitty last month and it took an hour to go down 18" with a pick axe and other implements of destruction. The hose would do nothing here but run up the water bill.
I tried to put in a ground rod at KH6DFW’s qth, up the hill from Kona Hawaii once. It went in about 2 inches before it hit rock. Wasn’t going in any further no way, LOL.
Be advised that driving a ground rod into soggy soil defeats its purpose.
Not that "earth" is a good conductor, since it isn't. But a rod is supposed to be driven into "undisturbed soil," which kinda means it will be very difficult to drive it in.
I could lay a garden hose in the yard with water running for a day and then drive one in, easily...but it will not be making intimate contact with earth. I could also dig a hole and just lay a ground rod in that and pack dirt around it, but same problem.
Still, the most important earth connection is the one the electric utility company used. Bonding to that is really all we need to do. In my case, that wasn't easy to find since they evidently planted their ground before the concrete patio was poured, so there was no way to see it. I "found" it inside the service panel, and just used that as my primary ground.
A "ufer" ground is very good if your house is not too old. They are installed in the footing of a slab and tied to the bottom rebar for twenty feet, and then brought up out of the concrete before it is poured. Usually they used 1/0 bare copper. The military used this kind of ground in their munitions bunkers around the United States.
Rotary Hammer like a Hilti T-72 or using the shovel of a Back Hoe to push it down. Use a soaker hose the day before to soak the area to make it easier.
Mine may actually be that, but I really have no idea. If they did that, they did it about 60 years ago.
The "ground wire" I can see coming up to the ground bus in the service panel is very large gauge, I'd have guessed #2 or so, stranded copper. I just connect everything to that.