Discussion in 'Mobile Radio' started by W5KV, Dec 6, 2016.
Here are the pictures of our 2006 Toyota Tacoma
I would think that a toolbox would actually hold the antenna. I know of large screwdrivers that have been mounted just to the rear of the box and secured with non-conductive braces and by using a conventional ball mount. That tool box my friend, K3EDK, had had a double lid instead of the single one and opened at each side. He braced the antenna at the top of the toolbox in the center between the two side lids.
The problem with this that I see is, your antenna is base loaded. If you move it up close to the cab, it might cause a problem. The solution there would be to center the coil on a lower mast...oh-- 2 or 3 feet long. This gets the coil up over the cab and out of the near field. If needed, you can shorten the whip to re-tune things. My opinion is, center-loading works better anyhow. I would also think that you could "tack" weld some sheet steet inside the tool box where the ball mount would be installed (centered). If your truck bed is non-metal, the challenge is to get a ground(s) down to the frame without creating a "ground loop" (evidenced by squeals, howls, hot surfaces and mikes that "bite", and, of course, tell-tall SWR that just won't come down. Just don't forget and drive into the garage with it on the truck. (I actually had a small sign on my dash for awhile) "CAUTION! TALL ANTENNA ON BOARD!!!
Mutiband screwdriver antenna 3.6 - 28Mhz. My RV has no metal roof. I taped copper tape and bonded to aluminium topside rails and then to central bonding point including base of Screwdriver antenna to topside then ran a 10mm earthing wire to Chassis.
VSWR was less than 2:1 on all bands but only after I installed my VK5TBC 1.8M super whip with Capacitive hat at base of whip. This acts on low bands as capacitor hat and higher HF bands helps resonating Screwdriver antenna. Technical reasoning....Similar to 1/2 fan dipole but physically 1/2 size (I named it 'VK5TBC 1.8M super whip'. Length of longest capacitor aluminium is approx' 400mm, shorter element around 250mm and longer 400mm may be cut to resonate at 3.501Mhz. Screwdriver has a lift actuator to lay antenna flat on roof whilst driving but still can be resonated OK. Signal reports are up there with hams running 400W pep but usually an S point below as I run 50- 100 pep.
I have a 16 Tacoma. Trying to install a Ft857D for use on HF. I have horrendous noise. It’s a white noise kind of hash and is S9. I have the exhaust and hood grounded. No improvement. Any of you all have a 16-19 Tacoma that you have tried HF in? 2 meters is quiet so that isn’t the issue. Just HF. be WB0SND
Michael, if you're not looking for diagnostic advice, please disregard this message (I'm just sticking my nose in where it may not belong).
Regarding all the noise on HF, have you tried listening with the antenna(s) disconnected? This will help to clear up whether the noise you hear is getting to the radio via the antenna/coax system, or through the power supply lines.
There are different approaches to supplying power to a mobile radio in-vehicle, and I'm not going to add my opinion to the many that may follow, but at least be sure your connections are robust. Additionally, you may find that the radio chassis is located physically close to a component in your Tacoma that radiates noise; perhaps just relocating may solve the problem.
Good luck! Let us know if you chase any of this, and what the solution(s) is(are).
David / N2PQW
I have a 2017 Tacoma with a Yaesu 857d. I have 2 mounts from Victory 4x4 https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VT3CB-BARE.html that bolt under the hood hinge. On one side I have my vhf/uhf antenna and on the other side I have a 10 meter antenna. I grounded the hood on both sides and don’t have any noise. I also have an ATAS 120 with an nmo adapter that I plan to try but I haven’t had a chance yet.
I’ve been running HamSticks on our 2012 Tacoma using one of the hi density poly cleats as a base insulator with the cleat positioned in the left side cleat track just forward of the tailgate. The antenna is secured to a 3/8x24 female to female coupler which in turn is secured to the cleat with a 3/8x24 bolt through a 3/8 hole in the cleat, enlarged a pre-existing small hole on the cleat. No problems with vibration or shaking of the low wind load sticks. I run the antenna coax feedline from the IC-7100 main unit located under the drivers seat out through the nominal 1 inch rubber plug in the floor pan in front of the left jump seat (Access Cab). The coax is secured along the frame rails and is run up between the left rear fender wall and the left wall of the bed, entering the bed below the antenna through a small hole In the bed wall into the back of a small plastic box. In the box the coax is split out with the shield grounded under one of the bolts of the tailgate latch strike bracket and the center conductor goes up to the base of the antenna. The box also contains a 500pf shunt cap which is connected across the feed point on 80/75 and 40 meters.
The pair of #10 stranded power leads also come up through the rubber plug in the floor pan and are terminated via in line fuses (as recommended by Icom at the battery positive and negative posts) No current drain Hall effect sensor to be concerned with on the 2012 with respect to where to terminate the negative power lead.
I use the aux input jack of the installed Tacoma stereo system connected to the 7100 headphone jack which provides awesome receive audio.
The 7100 control head is mounted on an inverted coffee mug squished into the left front cupholder in front of the shift lever, secured with a 1/4x20 bolt into the tripod mount adapter hole on the bottom
of the head (a great feature - thank you Icom!)
I have chosen to run Hamsticks primarily due to their slim low wind load and low nerd factor (no need for guy lines or huge magnet bases which I think are extremely ugly). Only have broken one stick in nearly 20 years. (Backed into a very bushy apple tree during a brain fart). Granted a 75 meter Hamstick is at least 6 dB down from a Bugcatcher, but that’s only an S unit. I regularly work into Europe in the 80/75 meter SSB DX window while mobile, and also work regularly to VK there both short and long path. My best luck is generally when operating right up near the salt water at shoreside locations in CT and RI, but I also have good luck from big shopping
center parking lots. As I typed this I worked DK3BK on 3793 in the window, and received a 59+10 report while parked in parking lot in Old Saybrook CT several miles inland from Long Island Sound. Have not heard any other stateside 75/80 meter mobile DXers from this side of the pond. Have worked M0KPD/M in England mobile to mobile on 80 SSB though! I highly encourage others to give mobile low band DXing a try!
Pix below of the Tacoma antenna mounting arrangement, Tacoma on the salt in RI, and our other vehicle that I run the 7100 in, a 2017 Volvo XC60 on the salt in CT. The big slanted sticks in the Tacoma are not antennas. Old school 11.5 foot one piece Lamiglas surfcasting rods!
73 de Chris AJ1G/M Stonington CT
Sorry to strike up an old topic, but I'm in the process of getting the noise down in my Tacoma. I started at s9 and I'm down to s5. Curious to hear about your experience.
Battling noise advice is greatly appreciated from anyone. So far all corners of the cab, the hood to body, besides and frame are bonded in multiple locations. Also it's bonded ahead and before the cat, and ahead / before the muffler to frame.
Started at s9. Down to s5. S0 with the truck running and no antenna mounted. I work mostly portable and would love to hammer out this mobile issue. Thank in advance!
Hope you have conquered your noise issue .
Recently installed Hustler Antenna with G-tool Stake Mount on my good ol' T-100 toy 4x4.
Have only Bonded exhaust and one other so far , only have some ignition noise ( not on all Bands) .
I use portable Dyi power Box with Lithium Cells ,plenty of Power .
My Rig is a TS480HX to get out in this low Spot Cycle .
Will Look into Bonding more ,and filtering the ignition Noise .