Anderson Pole size for MFJ1106

Discussion in 'General Technical Questions and Answers' started by K8EA, Sep 9, 2018.

ad: L-HROutlet
ad: l-rl
ad: Left-3
ad: DLSpec-1
ad: L-MFJ
ad: Subscribe
ad: Left-2
ad: MessiPaoloni-1
  1. K8EA

    K8EA Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    I really don't like these Anderson Poles. I think for small projects they are just too much work. That said I have an MFJ1106 to distribute low current 12VDC to some accessories. I need a few replacement "Anderson Pole" assemblies but cannot determine which size this MFJ1106 unit uses. Any body know? Are they the 1331s? I don't want to spend an hour on the phone waiting to ask this question--too much to do. This is a simple question but cannot seem to find the answer anywhere on the internet. The MFJ manual doesn't say what the size # is. I want to order today if possible. Thanks to all!
     
  2. KB3UWC

    KB3UWC Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Hi Ed, Like you i am not a power pole fan. But i have a few in use. Have a look at this page, it will give you a better understanding of them.
    https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-connectors#compatibility It looks like you would just select the size you need by the gauge of the wire, They are all interchangeable.

    Hope this helps you out 73 Steve KB3UWC
     
  3. AB3TQ

    AB3TQ Subscriber QRZ Page

    I think the company making them changed hands at some point. They did make large fist sized connectors for electric towmotors and the like. You won't ever be confused by them. But if you are looking at an electronic device connector, as was mentioned, they are all inter-connectable. The 15 Amp contacts, the 30 Amp contacts and the 45 Amp contacts all fit inside the one size fits all plastic body. Those plastic bodies are available in several colors. Colors other than Red and Black are generally a bit more pricey.

    I am a Power Pole fan. They are not too much work if the application is important to you. The one thing to watch out for are the knockoff lower cost lower quality offerings. I am not saying that the junk ones do not USUALLY work mostly OK, but I do say that you get what you pay for. If you have any intermittent electrical connection when flexing or torquing a mated pair of contacts, you probably bought junk.

    I don't know of an easy way to visually tell a genuine Anderson connector, but every genuine Anderson plastic body I have seen has an "A" molded into it. No "A", you got what you paid for or you got ripped off.
     
  4. K8EA

    K8EA Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Thanks guys. That makes it a lot easier for me. I guess I am better off with the 30 or 45 amp size then since they all fit together and I would rather run 12-16 wire than 18-20. Seems also that they would snap into the housing easier. using small stranded wire (like from power bricks) I find difficult to push through into the snapped position in the housing. Thanks again--internet support for ham radio questions is fabulous. When I first got my license in 1966 there was virtually nobody to ask except maybe your Elmer, if you had a good one!
     
  5. KA0HCP

    KA0HCP XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    It helps to use a small flat blade screwdriver to push the connectors into place in the shells.
     
    AB3TQ likes this.
  6. AB3TQ

    AB3TQ Subscriber QRZ Page

    Glad to help. I recommend the 30 Amp Contacts then. I have only used 45 Amp Connectors when getting into single gauge wire. A bigger pain to work with than the 30 Amp Contacts (has been harder to seat 45 Amp connectors - but they do go in). I like to use the largest size / diameter pusher to seat the contacts that will fit into the space not filled by the conductor and insulation. Minimizes the chance of slipping off the minimum push area often available to you on the end of the connector. I have been known to fit as many wire strands as possible into the "designated" wire area of a 30 Amp Connector and then soldering remaining strands around the outside of the connector (leaving an unobstructed area for your pusher). Some of this might not be advice Anderson would give, but I use a lot of their connectors - and this is what works for me.

    I know there are studies out there indicating that crimping is the better option. I will never know.
     
  7. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    Anderson Power Products (APP), maker of Powerpoles, was acquired by Ideal Industries in 2001.

    Anderson Power Products
    13 Pratts Junction Road
    Sterling, MA 01564-2305
    https://www.idealindustries.com/content/idealcorp/en/brands/anderson-power.html

    Ideal Industries (Sycamore, IL)
    Acquisitions over past thirty years:

    June 1991 : Crimp-Tec
    June 1993 : Shattuck Industries - creating Ideal Networks division
    March 2001 : Anderson Power Products (APP)
    June 2001 : Wavetek
    December 2009 : Western Forge (Colorado Springs, CO)
    August 2010 : S&K Hand Tools
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  8. W9KEY

    W9KEY XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Disclaimer - I do a bit of independent consulting work for West Mountain Radio .....

    They have a great crimp tool for Anderson Power Poles - http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=PWRcrimp

    I've used mine many times - works great. Only caution is when using heaviest gauge wires - you must be careful to properly align the terminal (before crimping) since there is not as much twisting available (after crimping) to put both connectors (on a zip cord) into parallel alignment. In other words, with 16 or 18 ga wire, you can be sloppier about getting the 2 terminals into a parallel plane, since after crimping they can easily be "twisted" into alignment. But with 10 or 12 ga wire, there is not as much twisting that can be done. This is important since both terminals must be in parallel alignment to easily fit into a dual connector (side-by-side) housing. As one poster mentioned, using a small flat-blade screwdriver will help push a crimped terminal into the plastic housing (push until you hear it "click" into place).

    One trick I use - each time I'm going to make a new cable, I first carefully look at an existing one as a model. That makes it easy to slide the plastic housings into proper orientation, and to insure when you crimp the terminals you don't accidentally put them on upside down. Just take your time - measure twice, crimp once!!

    West Mountain also has two related Power Pole videos. Links to videos are on the above page.
     
  9. KC8VWM

    KC8VWM Moderator Volunteer Moderator QRZ Page

    That's what I do too. :)

    I guess there's a "tool" made to push the connectors and lock them inside the shells, but I don't feel any need to get one.

    Also someone should probably mention and make the poster aware of the Anderson "Power Pole Protocol."

    [​IMG]

    This is the configuration everyone should use, so all ham radio equipment with power poles can be universally interconnected with one another.
     
    KA0HCP likes this.
  10. AB3TQ

    AB3TQ Subscriber QRZ Page

    Yes, that is the default standard orientation. But I have some stuff I DO NOT WANT TO BE ABLE TO PLUG INTO THAT STANDARD ORIENTATION. Anderson makes a lot of flexibility available. Reverse horizontal orientation or even vertical orientations. Or different color combinations can alert you to special circumstances that you want to remember. Or clustering more than two connectors.

    And yes, I usually have a known good standard orientation application handy when making new connections (even though the standard orientation is now burned into my brain).
     
    KC8VWM likes this.

Share This Page