Acom 1010 Amp Question

Discussion in 'Amateur Radio Amplifiers' started by W1AL, May 18, 2020.

ad: L-HROutlet
ad: l-rl
ad: abrind-2
ad: Subscribe
ad: Left-3
ad: QSOToday-1
ad: Left-2
ad: L-MFJ
  1. K7GQ

    K7GQ Subscriber QRZ Page

    I have used an ACOM-1010 in Hawaii for years now, and I doubt that other amplifiers would have survived as well in my no-air conditioning QTH where the temperatures and humidity have been pretty gruesome at times.
     
  2. W5IEI

    W5IEI Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    I have ACOM 2100,1000,and 1010.
    I'm a big fan of them.
    Mike
     
    W9RAC likes this.
  3. N5KNU

    N5KNU Ham Member QRZ Page

    aahhh be man, put your foot down,....least she puts her foot atop of yours..
     
    W4NNF likes this.
  4. W1QJ

    W1QJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    At some point in the coming future I should have quite a bit of information on Acom amps. I was offered a authorized warranty repair status recently but turned it down. A fellow ham (neighbor) who is in the professional market of RF amplifies, both tube type and solid state type decided to take the offer after I passed on it. He’s now set up as a satellite warranty repair outlet for Acom and other amp products sold by DXE. I’ll most likely be assisting when I have time in troubleshooting as equipment comes in. He’ll be doing out of warranty work as well. The equipment is now dribbling in for repairs. Still waiting for some supplies necessary coming in from Acom in Bulgaria. He is over here in Connecticut so much of the east coast repairs will probably be coming here. All warranty work needs to go through a dealer, most likely the one you purchased your amp from. The dealer will usually try to direct your needs to the most local authorized facility. Transformers are coming in from Bulgaria so that in the event you need work you can remove the transformer and hold on to it. This makes shipping safer and easier. I’ll be keeping an eye out for reoccurring problems with the various models. Of course we are in direct contact with Val in Bulgaria. I will say this however, if you have an Acom unit that uses a 4cx1000a tube you should be on the lookout for a NOS EIMAC tube!! They are out there and would be a wise purchase if you can find one! The Acom’s come through with the Chinese version of the 4cx1000a. Replacement tubes will obviously be Chinese. Once your warranty is up you might like to have that Eimac stashed away. Acom amps are user friendly and the TRI works perfectly!
     
  5. K7JQ

    K7JQ Ham Member QRZ Page

    As an aside note, I and others have some experience putting NOS Eimac 4CX1000A's into Acom amps. Acom recommends replacement 4CX1000A's should be the Chinese one's used by them at their factory. Array Solutions, the original Acom repair center, will confirm this. The different characteristics of the Eimac tube typically displays negative screen current, and might throw off the TRI calibration, as what happened to my A1500 and others reported. Not that the tube won't work, but unless you go through a re-calibration of the TRI, you have to carefully watch the screen current, and adjust the Load control accordingly (not centering the "V") to keep screen current well within the protection thresholds. Otherwise, you'll have screen current warnings and faults.

    Other than that, I've had the Acom 1000, 1500, and now the 1200s. Other than the 1500's shorted Chinese tube (replaced by the Eimac), they're all great performers. The 1200s is new...no extensive experience with it yet.

    Bob K7JQ
     
  6. W1QJ

    W1QJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    That’s interesting Bob, glad you pointed that out. Something to look into when the time comes. I’d have to get info on calibrating the TRI if that’s doable. I’d prefer an Eimac tube personally. The new price for a Chinese version is around $490.
     
  7. N3DT

    N3DT Ham Member QRZ Page

    I got a used 1000 last summer. It worked fine when I got it, but the tube must have gone soft at some point as I could not get even 8-900W out of it where before it would do 1100 if pushed. I finally got in touch with Val and he sent me a whole bunch of in info. Even how to calibrate the TRI and power indicator. It seems that my TRI had gone out of whack, along with the tube getting soft, unless a new tube necessitated a re calibration of the TRI. I've come to use the screen current to tune the amp now. Maybe some day I'll calibrate the TRI. But at least with the A1000 I find that with 50W input, you should be able to get 830W out depending on the band and SWR with 10ma Is. That puts it in a place where with about 30ma Is 60W in, I get near 1KW That puts the Ip down well below 600ma also. Val seemed to like those numbers for tuning but it puts my TRI way over to the right. That's on the LP-100A, the Acom power meter is way optimistic. I did buy a new tube from DX Eng, they had a better deal with shipping.

    One of these days I may slip the old tube back in just to make sure I was right. But I was getting High Ip warnings (over 700ma) with the old tube using the TRI indicator. But I didn't know about how to tune with the Is then.
     
  8. W1QJ

    W1QJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    I’ve checked out the TRI on these amps. The amp I tested it worked perfectly. There are loads of tetrode amps without TRI and they have to be loaded by using the screen grid meter. That’s how I load all the old QRO tech amps. When the RRI is working properly it is very good! Obviously if the tube is new and the adjustment is made to a relatively new tube it will hold true. Things could go out of whack when a tube starts loosing emission.
     
  9. K4YNZ

    K4YNZ XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    I bought a used ACOM 1500 this year. It had a problem with the original tube. The owner sent it to ARRAY Solutions for repair. They replaced it with an EIMAC tube. It was shipped from ARRAY to me and had the repair information. Right off I noticed the tuning chart was off on wide bands like 75 or 10 meters.TRI is correct. I checked and Val said that was normal. We discussed the best way to run the amp and he suggested tuning for maximum power and then run it around 1200 W CW.
    From the repair bill they did adjust and set things for the EIMAC tube.

    I noticed running this way my grid current is 0 or around 1 or 2. I hardly ever see it go negative. Unless I was tuning for maximum power. Which I did only one time to record readings. I figure no need to get the last watt out of a tube. But if it is off by 1.5 to 2 dB I got problems .

    This is my second tube amp since 1974. First was a L4B. Dad explained that if I blew up a tube it would take me 6 month to pay for a set. The original tubes lasted till 200? I hope the ACOM will last as long. If so it will outlast me.

    Nice to meet you. I remember seeing one of you converted 6 meter amps at the Ft Payne Al tail gate. It looked nice.
    Any information on how to get the most life out of an amp is welcome. I stopped worrying about the last watt when I learned to work in Db.
     
    KD2ACO likes this.
  10. KD2ACO

    KD2ACO Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber Life Member QRZ Page

    It's a liberating feeling! :p
     
    K4ECA and K4YNZ like this.

Share This Page