75A-4 mods: 1s that work well

Use a 47 mfd capacitor @ 160 volts instead of 50 mfd. Basically the same performance like Mouser # 667-EEU-ED2C470. The price drops to $0.71 in single quantities and $0.419 each in quantities of 10.

For C-124, use Mouser # 667-ECQ-E2474JF. Those cost $0.71 each in single quantities.

For C-71 use Mouser # 80-C911U102MVWDBAP. Those are $0.78 each in single quantities.

For C-08, etc., use Mouser # 81-DEA1X3D471JA3B. Those are are $0.57 each in single quantities or $0.306 each in quantities of 10.

For C-34 use Mouser # 81-DEA1X3A101JA2B. Those are $0.33 each in single quantities.

For C-102 use Mouser # 667-ECQ-U2A105KL. Those are $1.16 each in single quantities.

The Mouser website can be very hard to follow. That is where having one of their printed catalogs comes in handy. Also, remembering the "new" capacitor values, which follow the same tolerance values as resistors, allows a wider choice in components which, in turn, saves a LOT of money!

Glen, K9STH

 

Ive gradually switched completely to Mouser on-line as I got used to their little/many idiosyncrasies. Now it is easy to blast around, use filters, and find many parts that are not in the catalog plus ones being discontinued at a steep discount.

No such luck as it is the stock 325 HP numbers matching that did have some head work done and a slightly hotter Chevelle cam added almost when new. The tranny is the Turbo 400 with beefed up internals. Ive done nothing to the drive line except add a CD ignition and had a friend blueprint the QJ carb. The rear is a 12 bolt posi.

Since the SS was downgraded to an option package in 68 the buyer opted to delete the bucket seats and console; all that is on the build sheet. All the exterior and interior SS badging and extra trim is in place.

I drove it up from Hendersonville NC in 97 with 51K on it and it has 68K now. Far from perfect cosmetics but then I dont worry about leaving it in a parking lot. The BFG 205/15 65 radials I put on it in 2008 are now dry rotted so that will be the first step when it comes out of storage.

I already replaced all 4 coil springs and completely rebuilt the front end and brakes as everything was loose or dry rotted from a life of mostly sitting. At least the frame is almost like new which is a huge plus as they are very rot prone.

Carl

 

According to the folks @ Hagerty who are very close to real World values, your 1968 Impala rag top with BB is worth about 33K in average condition. With 68K on the speedo I am reckoning here, that would automatically put your car in above average condition with that amount of mileage. I am sure the car came with disc brakes with the BB in the car which is a bonus. I would be careful where you park that classic Chebbie from now on.


http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vbe=45509

 

No discs except for the SS-427 fronts which was a separate and distinct model. In 69 front discs were optional on all lesser models and standard around 71 IIRC. Aftermarket disc kits have been around for decades now but new linings, wheel cylinders, hardware kits, and drums was all I needed to stop fast enough for me.

Thanks for the value update, I'll have to ask Hagerty about that later today as I had it at $25K for a few years now.

Carl

 

Take a look at the vehicle values details page in that link Mr. Carl. It has top flight 68 Impala rag tops going for over 64K and condition #2 cars going for 46.7K. Sure glad AR BA prices haven't gone up that much in relation to to some of these old classic cars. Nice 401K you have there Mr. Carl, once/if you get that car back up into prime shape. I hope you get many more years of enjoyment out of that fine old ride and then garner a good payday when you sell that Impala to the next owner, for them to enjoy that classic Impala.

 

I see what you mean, it took a nice jump in May 2013.

Here it is a few years ago

 

Since I was searching around for tubes for the BA I ran across this great web page that offers information on which tubes can be exchanged with each other. Handy reference to have if you don't have the real tube book. In my younger days, I remember seeing 1 version of this book that looked to have more mass to it, then a hardcover edition of War and Peace.

http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/info/tubexref6.html

 

One does have to be careful when substituting tubes. Most work fine. However, in certain circuits, higher frequencies, etc., the substitute may not work well, if at all.

I know that, in at least one of the actual hard copy versions, there were notes when such problems were known.

Glen, K9STH

 

You should see some of the WW2 substitute manuals; very little production was released to civilians and some real hack work was needed to keep some radios working.

And there were the ones that had the SW sections just disabled or completely removed. Neither happened to my family who were German with uncles in the Army Air Corps, another working as an engineer on the Norden Bomb Sight and machinists, electricians and mechanics tossed in the mix. I suppose the FBI cleared the family.

Carl

 

Looking around the WWW, I ran across this very nice site hosted by W5AM, named radioing.com. It looks like you can even operate W5AM's remote station, but I know nothing about those parameters needed to do just that. It also has some original Collins advertizements for their products, including the A line series of radios. Interesting to see that Collins offered the KWS-1 and it's PS, in various kit forms, to be built by someone else besides the factory personal. I didn't know that Collins offered this service back in the day. A lot less fewer appliance OPs back in that time frame, I reckon. I have been looking around for a KWS-1 + PS and will have to inspect them pretty well now, to make sure, "Joe the plumber" wasn't the original assembler of the Collins piece. I thought all Collins pieces were built at the Collins factory, but apparently not.


http://www.radioing.com/collins/acc05.html