2m Linear all-mode radio questions

There are 2 what I would consider non-standard connectors and looking through the parts list Kenwood only provides their part numbers. The AUX Connector is in sort of a "Y" configuration and I've never seen one of those in my 34 years of radio communications. Since the TR-9130 was manufactured around 1983, about the only places one might find that connector is in Digi-Key, Mouser or Allied Radio. The other connector is square is for Memory Back-up via small wall wart power supply which is interesting when you look at the Schematic, there's a 9 VDC NiCad Battery inside the top cover.

Dave, I forgot to mention that you use a commercial 3 dB 25 Watt Attenuator between the transceiver's RF Output Connector and the RF Input Connector on the RF Amplifier. These attenuators are readily available on the internet websites. Similar to the website here:

http://www.testparts-store.com/narda-microwave-768-3-db-coaxial-attenuator-dc-11-ghz-20w-tps-4725/

Or as a last ditch effort build your own 3 dB Attenuator out of 50' RG-58/U Coaxial cable.

Good Luck

Dan

 

Good day today at HRO - had to hit Portland on business, so took the Mirage, the receipt, and my TR-9130 manual.

SUPER nice folks there - Roy (the guy on the phone) fully admitted "major brain fart" - selling me the 10w version
instead of the 25 watt version of the Mirage amp. Easy peasy - just did a swap. He didn't have the 25w amp in
stock but ordered it "free shipping" from Virginia to my doorstep next week. No fuss, no muss, no arguments, no hassle
whatsoever - exactly what I'd expect of HRO.

The ONLY difference in the two amps is the one I had was set up for a 10-12 watt driver, and the
one I exchanged for lacks the RF driver stage - it will take 20 - 60 watts for full 110w output of the amp.

Bought a bunch of other stuff just cuz I was there....

But five stars for customer service and support from Portland HRO - top notch outfit in every way.

Dave
W7UUU

 

Hi, glad you have it resolved, to be honest I would still be tempted to turn the radio power output down a bit, you would probably have a markedly better signal by reducing the power output to about 15w or so. The ALC is a bit of a non issue, you really should not need it.. the hard wired PTT is a good idea though.. regards David G0FVT

 

Ah - forgot about this thread! yeah it works GREAT with the 25w input amp! I get a full 150-160 watts
output into the M2 9-element wide spaced beam (soon to be at about 48 feet!). I had a lot of fun in the
June VHF contest - worked out on the deck with the beam on a mast and tripod - rotated by hand. Got
quite a few stations and grids in the log.

I ended up whipping together a little project box with a toggle and push-button and a 6 foot cable. The
toggle goes to the RCA on the amp and I manually T/R the amp as WIK suggested earlier in the thread.
The automatic RF sensing in the amp is something of a joke! It works well only on FM. On CW and SSB
it chatters the relay like mad. No biggie doing manual T/R - I'm fine with that. The pushbutton goes to
my ancient Autek contest keyer - just tacked onto the "A" sequence button to send CQ while I kick
back in my chair

Dave
W7UUU

 

Those amplifiers are not designed to drive to their full output in SSB mode (150-160).
Only for CW and FM.
In SSB mode they begin to go into serious gain compression a bit above 100 watts output. That's not a linear function when over driven beyond that point.
On AM mode the drive should not be more than about 6 watts to keep the amplifier with in reasonable linearity or 6x4= 24 watts drive on peak envelope drive..
On RF keyup, they are adjustable for hang time either with the mode switch in SSB or internally by pot adjustment.
I never use RF key up either so you may have to back off the hang time if manual keying and the RF sense it still working or disable it by removing the RF coupling cap to the keying transistor circuit. The signs of this is the amplifier does not return to Rcv as instantly as you feel it should.
Good luck..