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2 question for the Kenwood TS530SP

Discussion in '"Boat Anchor" & Classic Equipment' started by KB1FGC, Nov 8, 2021.

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  1. KB1FGC

    KB1FGC Ham Member QRZ Page

    I can't tell if the caps are original.I recapped the Heathkit DX60 and SB301/401.They had the older style capacitors. I don't know if they changed them to the modern looking ones by the time the TS530 came out.There is a sticker on the chassis that read Electrical contractors.So I'm thinking that the radio might of been served at some point.I could take some photos if you want to take a look.All the electrolytics look like modern capacitors.The 2 large ones are in a plastic case.
    73
     
  2. W5RKL

    W5RKL Ham Member QRZ Page

    The square right rear metal enclosure is NOT an "HV Cage". That square metal enclosure is the "Final Amplifier" where the final tubes,
    2 x 6146Bs are located along with the final amplifier band switch wafer and "de-tent" assembly, PI Network tank circuit, T/R relay, and other
    final amplifier components are located. Yes, there is HV present 100% of the time when the 530 is powered UP but it's not an "HV Cage".

    The band switch knob and shaft should never pull out as you have described.
    Yes, the band switch will rotate "360 degrees" without a stop. Each rotation of the band switch should have a solid "click" into position feel.
    It should NOT rotate freely without that firm "click into position" feel. Loss of that firm "click into position" feeling is a sign of loose band switch
    coupler set screws OR a cracked/broken band switch coupler.

    You need to "thoroughly" inspect the band switch coupler by doing the following:

    1. Disconnect the power cable from the wall outlet
    2. Disconnect any additional cables plugged into the rear of the 530.
    3. Remove the top and bottom covers
    4. Remove the top cover from the final amplifier enclosure
    5. Remove the front 6146B tube (required to see the coupler)

    Visually inspect the band switch coupler for signs of cracks/breaks as shown in the second picture below.

    You can order a replacement coupler here:

    https://www.k4eaa.com/parts.htm

    Is there an "easy fix" for this problem? The fix is simply not to remove the old coupler and slide the new coupler onto the shafts. There are steps to
    be followed to fix this problem and those steps can be found here:

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiy4uTm9Yr0AhVkmWoFHf3ED-4QFnoECAQQAQ&url=https://w5rkl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Broken-final-amplifier-coupler-replacement.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3TqBY47bSGPrGOkc1pGpg_

    The band switch coupler repair procedure steps in the above link are from Ken, K4EAA. I simply have them posted on my website.

    73
    Mike W5RKL
    RMC(SW) USN RET
    www.w5rkl.com




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    Last edited: Nov 9, 2021
  3. K7TRF

    K7TRF Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Yes, of course you're correct. But Mike I've gotta say in five decades of owning and repairing radios with tube finals I've heard that term as well as many others used many times and to date it hasn't caused any confusion. But yes you are correct of course.
     
  4. W5RKL

    W5RKL Ham Member QRZ Page

    Dave,

    I'm sure you have heard it referred to by different names. However, the real issue here is FGC's possible cracked/broken band switch
    coupler. If the coupler is cracked/broken, which based on the comments from FGC it appears it is cracked/broken, the coupler needs
    to be replaced BEFORE he used the 530 again!!

    Replacing the coupler is not a simple matter of removing the cracked/broken coupler and replacing it with a new coupler. That's only part of
    the procedure.

    The band switch "assembly" has 2 shafts. One long shaft from the front panel through the RF Unit board band switch wafers, to a coupler
    that connects to the final amplifier band switch assembly inside the final amplifier enclosure.

    The shaft on the band switch assembly inside the final amplifier enclosure has a "short shaft" with "2 flat spots". Those 2 flat spots MUST be
    positioned correctly during the coupler replacement.

    Viewing the shaft from the right side, the final amplifier band switch "short shaft" must be rotated so one flat spot is positioned exactly horizontal
    on the bottom of the shaft. If done right, the other flat spot will be positioned exactly "vertical" facing the front 6146 final tube. This MUST be done
    BEFORE the new coupler is permanently installed. Once this is done the old cracked/broken coupler is removed. Loosen the set screws and gently
    slide the "long" shaft out from the front of the 530 JUST ENOUGH to allow removal of the cracked/broken coupler. Install and slide the new coupler
    onto the final amplifier short shaft so the set screws face outward towards the front 6146 final tube. Tighten the new coupler's set-screws on the final
    amplifier end of the coupler. Slide the "long band switch shaft" into the other end of the new coupler. Rotate the band switch knob so it points
    "exactly" at "10" on the band switch scale. The "10" is not, repeat "NOT" 10 meters, it's "30 meters"!!! Tighten the coupler set screws on the long
    shaft end of the coupler. While watching the final amplifier band switch wafer, rotate the band switch knob to different positions. The final
    amplifier wafer switch AND the long band switch shaft should rotate "in unison" and the shafts should NOT slip on either end of the coupler. Any
    slipping of the coupler on either shaft, the entire procedure should be repeated to ensure the shafts are in "proper alignment" and that the band
    switch setting selections are correct!!

    NEVER pull the long band switch shaft out from the radio during this procedure!! The long band switch shaft is pulled out "JUST ENOUGH"
    to allow removal of the original cracked/broken coupler and the installation of the new coupler.


    73
    Mike W5RKL
    RMC(SW) USN RET
    www.w5rkl.com
     
    K7TRF likes this.
  5. K7TRF

    K7TRF Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    Agreed.
     
  6. NV5P

    NV5P Ham Member QRZ Page

    I replaced the two HV power supply capacitors in my TS-530 with Nichicon LGN2H151MELC25 from Digikey.com cost is $6.50 each.
    Diameter is the same so you can use the old mounting hardware.
    73
    John D
     
  7. KB1FGC

    KB1FGC Ham Member QRZ Page

    Mike,Thanks for the link,Can I still order parts from K4EAA?I heard he is a SK. K7TRF gave me a link and it has parts also and is a very good site.I do like the brass couplers that they sell at K4EAA though.Nice to have another source as well.
    About the band coupler,It was my fualt.I pulled a little too hard as most of the knobs don't have set screws.So I ended up cracking the coupler.One thing I'm not sure of,When I first pulled off the band switch knob,I wasn't aware of where it was set to or where the shafts were aligned.How do I figure where the long and small shaft are suppose to be set too,before installing the new coupling?
    A special thanks for all who have helped out here.
    73
    Rich
     
  8. WD5GWY

    WD5GWY Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    You can still order parts from K4EAA's website. His wife is still selling parts. I ordered several things for my two 830's a few weeks ago. Fast shipping.
    The new couplers look good.
    James
    WD5GWY
     
  9. KB1FGC

    KB1FGC Ham Member QRZ Page

    Thanks for the help.
    73
     

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