Does anyone have any ideas, suggestions or a source for an
alternative to purchasing a Yaesu Separation kit for the 857D?
I am looking for a way to mount the head without having to purchase the separation kit from Yaesu.
Although I donít have such a critter here, Iím betting you would be money and lots more time ahead if you just buy one.
I guess it would depend on the availability of the connectors needed.
Any tool is a weapon if you hold it right.
ďThe only difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.Ē A. Einstein
You can buy after-market mounting brackets on Ebay. If you're able to make your own cables, it's a better way to go. The Yaesu bracket is just plastic, and the teeth that hold the control head can break off. You don't get much for your $70.
You could probably fashion something that has bottom support and use Velcro to keep it on the homemade bracket.
I have already made the cables for the head and microphone connections. Thecable for the head is nothing more than a 6 pin ethernet cable, with the cable cut in half, thenresoldered with one side 180 degrees from the other side. ( left side a-b, and right side b-a). The microphone is a 8 lead plug, which will work well with a 8 lead ethernet cable. The speaker extension cable isn't hard to throw together with parts from the junk box.
Personaly I don't care for the plastic that comes in the separation kit, along with a piece of double-sided adhesive tape. That's just scarey.
I have a couple of ideas, but nothing that will be completed in a few nights of work, if I had the tools to do some of the work needed. I will checkout ebay. Hadn't thought of that...
$55 bucks at Texas Towers
For the 857D sold in Australia. The control head is RJ12 connector (six cables) it is straight through. Standard phone (six core) flat is good.
For the Microphone you need RJ45 (Cat6 /Cat5) wired straight through. You need a extender connector (Straight Through) to connect the Microphone to the cable though, as they are both Male.
I got a good deal when I got my 857D and got the remote set nearly thrown in.
Other sites indicate that you can use standard RJ45 Ethernet (not crossover) for the microphone. I believe that you can use the Mike connection for both control and microphone so possibly you can use one RJ45 straight wire cable, a telephone type RJ45 splitter and for the control head a RJ12 to RJ45 cable (However you would need to look at what wires go where)
Crimp tool are cheap as is the cable and connectors.
I installed my radio this weekend and after laying the cables in the car I crimped them on site. They are the exact length required, hidden and all done with no connectors installed.
Tool cost AU$15, 6 core phone AU$0.80 per metre/yard, Cat 5/6 cable AU$1.00. RJ45 extender costs AU$2.50. Ten of each connector cost AU about $8.
I work in computer industry so I already had tool and RJ45 connectors and cable. I already owned the remote head mount (see above) and the extender. My total cost for the install was AU$9.60, I now have enough connectors (6pin) to make another 4 cables I only have to buy more six core cables.
They are lots of discussions on the net on how to hold the Remote Head (I own the plastic holder already).
If you are looking for a cheap mount the info below is not for you. But if you find a cheap mount you may want to read below as to a way to install with no marks on your car.
My car (an Aussie Ford) has an opening above the ash tray and below the radio to hold the odd bit of paper etc. It is about 180 mm wide, 45 mm high and about 100mm deep. ( 7"*1 3/4* 4").
I went to the shed found some craft wood (MDF) and some pine. The pine was 20mm (3/4") by 40mm (1.5") I cut the MDF to about 1mm more than the height (in this case 46mm). Although it is bigger than the height it is only slight and the plastic is harder than the MDF. The MDF I had in the shed was 12mm (1/2") in width. If you are really concerned you could make it the right height and glue some felt to it. (Both sides, thicker the felt less the thickness, but ensure you exceed the height slightly).
After I cut the wood to the correct height (2 pieces), (Do not worry about the depth at this time) and ensuring the length was about 50mm (2") greater than the depth of the holder. I tried to insert one piece into the aperture. As the holder was curved at the inside. The piece only inserted about 75mm (3"). I then moved the piece as far to the right as I could. Then get the second piece and moved it as far to the left as I could. If you can see the hole is tapered, you may need to taper the wood to suit. (Test this by inserting the MDF into the hole and then measuring the distance from the bottom of the hole to the end of the end of your piece of MDF).
If the length of your MDF - Distance Measured = less than 50 mm (2") you may not get enough support.
Then using a tape measure I measured the distance between both pieces and using the extra length I could then square them up and find the real distance between them.
In my case this was 125mm (5"), I subtracted the thickness of my MDF (12mm /.5") which left 100mm (4"). I then cut my spacers (from the Pine) to hold the MDF pieces. These were 100mm (4").
Placing the two bits of MDF upright on the bench I put a single nail to hold the back wood spacer into place on each side. This gave the right separation and still allowed my structure movement.
I went back to the car and inserted the "thing" into the hole. I then inserted the second spacer into the front section. Placing it, the distance I wanted from the front and allowing for the the thickness of the mount and the 50mm (2') thickness of the remote head I moved the front spacer to the correct angle. As I had the mount and the remote head I used these in real life.
Then marked the location of the front spacer. This gave me all real clearances and made sure I had access to all controls including my 857, car radio and my gear shift. It however did not give me access to the Ash Tray. (This does not affect me, as I do not smoke in my car, house etc)
I then went back and placed two nails (one each side) of the front spacer after I had lined it up on the pencil marks.
I then tried the whole thing again. This time I used a colored pencil to confirm my marks.
Then back to the shed, extra nails and then cut the front to suit my front spacer and tidy up.
I now have a remote mount that I can simply pull out of the dash and hide under the seat out of the sun. As the mount is easy to remove it is also easy to remove the remote head as the plastic clip is easily accessable.
(This means that I will probably never break the mount due to the fact that it is held tight against the dash).
For Mounting the radio I used the same MDF and the same Pine to make a simple frame. I have a Station Wagon (same as sedan in passenger area).
It consists of three pieces of MDF. The first piece is the width of the Tailshaft hump (my case 300mm /12") and two sides (my case 150mm / 6"). The sides are big enough to allow the radio to sit above the Tailshaft hump and just enough to sit just below the air vents to the rear seats. (Or alternatively over the center console). I do not consider it to be a missile hazard
So in summer it can get airconditioned as well (by console vents).
Use three screws top and bottom (each side) and the same piece of pine to hold it together.
To install my whole radio gear now takes about 3 minutes for the car and the same to remove. (except the mobile antenna which takes another 2 minutes for the HF band and 1 minute for 6 metres and two metres).
BTW, the plastic mount is available from Yaesu as a part - I know cuz I ordered about 10 of them back when I bought the radio 4 years ago. They were only like $3.50 or so, I couldn't see ordering just one!
Signature line removed for your viewing pleasure.
Instructions in the separation kit state that the dbl sided tape
Originally Posted by n1mze
is to TEMPORARILY hold the bracket in place while you drill
holes for screws.
Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke
I just removed the plastic section from the radio that holds the head and mounted it with industrial Velcro.
It took me a while to realize,in a blinding flash of the obvious that I already had the mount I needed it was just part of the radio!
Double female connectors
Keep abd use the original cables, use double female connectors and cables of your dimensional requirements and a short piece of galvanized 1"x2" "L" angle to screw on wherever you want with sticky velcro between the face & angle and you're done. The Factory short face cable is crossed already, so when you plug it into the double female it will work.
Mobiling Feels Good! :D Home has a T2FD :cool: