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Thread: Kenwood TR-751 Trouble

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    Posts
    223

    Default Kenwood TR-751 Trouble

    I recently bought a Kenwood TR-751 from a amateur who went silent key. A well known issue has been identified with these radios. Which is the SQL/AF/Power switch that fails. Usually the contacts on the pot fail are so long. I have read several forums about this issue, and no direct replacement from Kenwood exists. The part number was R23-9402-05, and is long since been discontinued. I also followed the instructions on how to self-repair the pot. This exacerbated the issue further. What I need help with is finding someone show has had a similar experience with the TR-751. If so did you find a suitable replacement. If someone has a TR-751 for parts, I would like to buy the tiny board if it is in working order.

    Joseph, KF7LPU
    Blessings, 73

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Greater London IO91
    Posts
    131

    Thumbs up TR751 pot repair

    Hi, here is ZL3JT's take on fixing the pots:


    Kenwood TR751 and TR851 Volume/Squelch control repair.

    Part number: R23-9402-05

    This part is now discontinued but might be repairable. Test each pot resistance to ensure the carbon track is OK. Squelch 50k Volume 20K (some may vary)

    1. Dismantle the radio to expose the unit and remove it from the circuit board.
    2. Carefully file off the ends of the two rivets flush with the rear plate.
    3. Prise the rear plate off, and remove the switch unit.
    4. Pull out the rivets, then remove the ‘C’ clip from the central shaft.
    5. Remove the central (volume shaft).
    6. Dismantle each potentiometer in turn, taking care not to mix the parts.
    7. Clean the wipers with contact cleaner on the cotton bud.
    8. The centre contact ring of each potentiometer will be dirty and oxidized, clean and polish the contact rings with silver polishing fluid soaked cotton bud. Then clean off the excess, and buff with a clean bud.
    9. Temporarily assemble each pot, hold together and test resistance between the centre wiper and the outside terminals as the control is rotated.
    10. Reassemble each unit with a touch of lubricant. (WD40 or CRC56)
    11. Manufacture new rivets from copper wire, reassemble the units in reverse order of dismantling, and fit new rivets, (see below).
    12. Carefully refit the rear plate, and re-rivet by tapping carefully with a small jeweller’s hammer.
    13. Test resistances again for full rotation, then assemble the circuit board and re-assemble the radio.

    This is a very delicate operation as the units are tiny. Great care must be taken when riveting, and ensure the head of each rivet is directly on an ‘anvil’ otherwise the plastic components will break.

    Manufacture of rivets.
    The rivet diameter is 0.038 inches, approximately 1.0mm. I used copper wire 1.0mm.
    I made a jig in my lathe out of ½ inch brass hex, about 10mm long, drilled a 1.0mm hole in the centre, then cut with a fine jeweller’s saw from one side into the centre hole. This jig enable me to grip the copper wire in the lathe chuck. With about 0.5mm of wire protruding out of the jig, I carefully formed the rivet head by tapping with a jeweller’s hammer as the lathe slowly turned.
    Then I reversed the formed rivet in the jig, and at a distance of 25.0mm, and leaving 1.5mm exposed, I used a fine file to reduce the diameter of the rivet to fit the holes in the rear plate. Check the correct length by careful measurement.
    Assemble was a little tight as the copper wire is about 0.002 inches too large, but it was not difficult and made the whole unit feel ‘tight’.
    Fit the rear plate, and test the potentiometers again, check the operation of the switch etc, before carefully forming the rivet ends over to finish. Make sure the units are held with the rivet heads on the ‘anvil’ as the other ends are formed with a jeweller’s hammer. Take your time, many taps with a 1 ounce hammer, rather than a few with a bigger one. The ‘shoulder’ on the rivet should match the rear plate to take the stress away from the switch and pots while riveting.
    If you don't want to tackle this job yourself, find someone who will and use this for a guide!
    Q & A via QRZ.com/zl3jt


    73 John G8KHS
    Family Motto: Si non confectus, non reficiat

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    Posts
    223

    Default

    Thank you for the post from John. I used that post to try and repair the pot. After opening the device the metal surface was beyond repair. So I am looking for a replacement.

    Joseph, KF7LPU
    Blessings, 73

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    Posts
    223

    Default

    I believe I have found replacements for both SQH/Vol/PWR & RIT controls. I will update anyone interested once the two parts have be received and installed. If you have TR-751, you may be interested in the modifications.

    Joseph

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    Posts
    223

    Default

    I received my potentiometer parts in the mail today, and success they worked. So if anyone out there has a Kenwood TR-751 with a bad Vol/Squ/Pwr control following these instructions..

    Google the following part numbers. You will find a website that will have both of them. (http://www.rrcom.com/rrcom.html)


    RV50303522 for the Vol./Squ./Pwr.

    RV20303523 for the RIT/RF Gain.

    Attached is a PDF copy of how to proceed with repairing the circuit. Thomas Kennedy, K8TK did a great job explaining the variations and how everything should come together. Let me know if you have any issues, and I would be happy to help.

    Joseph, KF7LPU
    Blessings, 73
    Attached Files Attached Files

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