Enclosure for feed-thru

[K1QW]

I have read several articles that suggest using a flat metal plate with coax bulkhead connectors to bring antenna connections into the shack -- also serving as a convenient single-point ground. This approach seems to leave the outside connectors exposed to rain, snow, dust, etc. Is this a problem?

I haven't seen any suggestions as to a suitable enclosure to weather-proof the connectors. I'd like to find some outdoor-rated electrical enclosure with a panel that can easily be removed from outside the shack to gain access to connectors, ground connections, etc.

What do people on this forum use, if anything? I'd be happy to hear your ideas. Thanks,

Larry, K1QW

[WB2WIK]

Others will hopefully chime in, but I use "nothing."

Rain, snow, dust, etc. will not penetrate properly installed coaxial connectors. Great emphasis on "properly installed," which the majority of connectors don't seem to be. That's a pity.

In 47+ years of using literally thousands of these connectors outdoors, I've never had a single one "leak."

[WA7PRC]

Hi Larry,

In preparation for installing my tower and BIG "flamethrower" yagi, I bought an enclosure and bulkhead fittings from DX Engineering:


The enclosure (pn DXE-UE-2P) came supplied with a 1/8" aluminum panel and I added a section of 2"x2"x1/8" aluminum angle stock for the bulkhead fittings (pn DXE-363-SST). The panel is supplied with a copper clamp bar suitable for 2" wide copper strip (pn DXE-CS2-25). Mine exits via a slot cut through the rear panel.

Antenna feeds come in through the top. I used plastic 3/8" strain reliefs from Home Depot (Lowes doesn't handle them). Tip: you want the strain reliefs positioned so the RG8-size feedline doesn't have to bend (much) inside the box. Coax to the shack exits through the bottom. The photo shown is prior to my finishing installation of my tower & new antennas. The small RG-58 feedlines are gone and all six entry points on top are now full with larger RG8-size feedlines. I drilled holes for all the strain reliefs and just plugged the three unused reliefs with stubs of DX Engineering 400MAX coaxial cable (identical to BuryFlex400) until needed:

The box is on the leeward side of my house, under the roof overhang. Water ingress has been naught. If that's a problem, caulk or other sealant can be used. The feelines enter my house through a homebrew passthrough tube next to the box. The tube slopes downward toward the outside. Polyurethane foam sealant is used to seal the tube.

[K1QW]

@WB2WIK: Yes, it seems a lot of people use the same approach and don't have any problem. Could you expand a little bit on your remark about "properly installed" connectors? What constitutes proper installation?

@ WA7PRC: Bryan, that's a nifty looking installation and sorta what I had in mind when I posted my question. I'll look into that.

Thanks to you both for the quick replies. 73,

Larry, K1QW

[W0AAT]

I repurposed an old cooler. Holds my 8 port switch so I only have 1 HF/6m feed coming into the house, all the polyphasers etc.

[WB2WIK]

@WB2WIK: Yes, it seems a lot of people use the same approach and don't have any problem. Could you expand a little bit on your remark about "properly installed" connectors? What constitutes proper installation?

If it's a PL-259 UHF type: The correct connector for the cable used, properly screwed onto the cable jacket (4 rotations, threading onto the jacket), which even before soldering anything should be impossible to pull off. Then, properly soldered through all four connector body soldering holes, allowed to cool, then properly soldered at the tip.

In my experience the biggest "problem" area is that first step: Assuring the cable is conforming for the connector, so the connector body can thread tightly onto the cable jacket. If that step doesn't work well, the whole installation won't.

[KC2GYU]

Hi Larry,

In preparation for installing my tower and BIG "flamethrower" yagi, I bought an enclosure and bulkhead fittings from DX Engineering:


The enclosure (pn DXE-UE-2P) came supplied with a 1/8" aluminum panel and I added a section of 2"x2"x1/8" aluminum angle stock for the bulkhead fittings (pn DXE-363-SST). The panel is supplied with a copper clamp bar suitable for 2" wide copper strip (pn DXE-CS2-25). Mine exits via a slot cut through the rear panel.

Antenna feeds come in through the top. I used plastic 3/8" strain reliefs from Home Depot (Lowes doesn't handle them). Tip: you want the strain reliefs positioned so the RG8-size feedline doesn't have to bend (much) inside the box. Coax to the shack exits through the bottom. The photo shown is prior to my finishing installation of my tower & new antennas. The small RG-58 feedlines are gone and all six entry points on top are now full with larger RG8-size feedlines. I drilled holes for all the strain reliefs and just plugged the three unused reliefs with stubs of DX Engineering 400MAX coaxial cable (identical to BuryFlex400) until needed:

The box is on the leeward side of my house, under the roof overhang. Water ingress has been naught. If that's a problem, caulk or other sealant can be used. The feelines enter my house through a homebrew passthrough tube next to the box. The tube slopes downward toward the outside. Polyurethane foam sealant is used to seal the tube.

I plan to build something like this, but instead of using standard bulkhead fittings I plan to use Alpha Delta Surge Protectors.

[WA7PRC]

I plan to build something like this, but instead of using standard bulkhead fittings I plan to use Alpha Delta Surge Protectors.

I used what W8JI in GA uses (only bulkhead fittings) because he said his multiple tall towers get many direct lightning strikes, and he has yet to sustain any significant equipment damage. Logic says he must be doing something right.

[KC8VWM]

Get a PVC enclosure from the local hardware store. They don't have to be overly elaborate, it could be as simple as a $5.00 PVC electrical junction box.


lj2100a.jpg

[K8JD]

I just drilled a big hole thru my cinder block mortar joint and stuffed 7 pieces of coax and a rotor cable thru and sealed inside and out with RTV Silicone compound. Been ok for 20 years.

For my balanced line, and future temporary antenna's leadins, I used a narrow piece of heavy paneling cut to fit the width of window frame and slid the window down tight and screwed in place and sealed with caulking. made a small slits to put the twinleads thru and sealed again with RTV compound.

Cost was $ Zero.00 and I can pull out coax and paneling, close window and restore to normal, seal the block wall with patching cement if I ever move.