Newly acquired Collins 30-L1, any components I should renew for safety?

[2E0ILY]

Just bought a clean Collins 30-L1 with 4 off 572-B valves fitted. I am unsure whether to run it as is, (it is sold all good), or to fit a modern rectifier / capacitor board? Are there any other components I might consider changing for safety / longevity if I go inside it? Thanks.

[AC0H]

If I had a 30-L1 I'd probably spring for the Harbach PM-300 power supply module.

[WB2WIK]

Why not try it first, to see if there's any problems?

Many 30L-1s have already had components replaced; possibly yours has, too. Even if not, failures become evident quickly.

Having owned tons (literally) of old gear, I never replace anything until it needs replacing. My 56 year-old 75A-4, older than any 30L-1, still has its original "black beauty" capacitors which everyone says cannot possibly last this long. Mine have, and the receiver works the same today as it did when I bought it in 1973. Might have something to do with the storage/operating environment. Mine's in a nice air-conditioned environment and has never seen any humidity or high temperatures.

I bought an entirely new set of caps about ten years ago in anticipation of having to replace them all, and the new set is still in the drawer.

[2E0ILY]

It was the "exploding caps" syndrome I have seen with some gear that had me worried. I have seen the mess hay can make, and just wanted to give the thing the best chance in its new home Not anxious to spend money, that's for sure, but there again, a stitch in time, etcetera. Cheers.

[WB2WIK]

It was the "exploding caps" syndrome I have seen with some gear that had me worried. I have seen the mess hay can make, and just wanted to give the thing the best chance in its new home Not anxious to spend money, that's for sure, but there again, a stitch in time, etcetera. Cheers.

I haven't seen any explode. I've seen them break down internally and short out, which blows fuses.

30L-1 isn't the easiest amp to work on, as I guess you have already seen.

[2E0ILY]

I am picking it up in the morning. I invested a few quid in a new PSU module from Harbach today, given it will take a while to get here. Will assemble and fit that and see how I get on with it. If it doesn't have SMC's I'll be happy enough getting at its innards, looking forward to seeing what the Collins' enthusiasts get excited about. The expoding caps comes from my dabbling in older Yaesu FT series boat anchors.Thanks!

[W9GB]

I am unsure whether to run it as is, (it is sold all good), or to fit a modern rectifier / capacitor board? Are there any other components I might consider changing for safety / longevity if I go inside it? Thanks.

Chris -

The FIRST step that I take with a new acquisition (hamfest, flea market, eBay, Craig's List) of a USED piece or electronic test gear or radios is to CLEAN the item. I normally use paper towels and Windex or Simple Green, unless it would potentially damage some plastic formulations.
Most boatanchors are painted metal.

In every case, the first cleaning results in paper towels that are almost BLACK with dirt, gunk, and accommodated dust/dirt. Such is the reality of modern hamfest or eBay bargains and dumpster diver resellers. One desoldering hand piece I acquired 2 years ago --- as coated on the inside with solder. The earlier owner did not use a glass tube and filter -- OR totally illiterate on proper operation of the tool.

I then replace missing machine crews with proper size and thread (English or metric, depending on item).

Lastly, I perform a critical visual assessment (discrimating eye), looking for physical damage to chassis and components (discoloration of wires or resitors, bulging capacitors, etc.)?
Test those components, and replace as required.

w9gb

[K9STH]

Be careful with the Harbach kits. A number of people have had problems with that kit in the 30L-1. Not everyone, but enough have had problems that I do not use them in the 30L-1 units that I work on for others.

I do replace the capacitors, diodes, and so forth. However, I just use the original board and replace the components thereon.

The 30L-1 is not that difficult on which to work. However, there are definitely some "tricks" which help getting access to various components.

Glen, K9STH