240V Line

[W1QJ]

NEC indicates 14AWG is fine for use in Romex or conduit at 15A.

But they're not concerned with performance, they're concerned with safety and fire prevention. If the line sags so much your lights flicker, they really don't care.

Very true! If you decide to up size the wire on the intended 20A circuit for V drop reasons, still use a 20A breaker in the panel, unless you go to a sub panel and break it down there. SO if you move up to #10 30A wire use a 20A breaker in the panel to give you some level of protection for the amp, even though the amp is protected by it's own.

[WD5JOY]

Mike I'm not kicking you for wanting to do this yourself, HOWEVER, by presenting the question on "ROMEX" - I must in good conscience wonder if you are simply unfamiliar with multiple choices in "ROMEX" -OR- a DIY kind-of-guy who wants to save the bucks no matter what the potential ramifications?

Bucks spent having the job done professionally or with the aid of a qualified friend etc (and inspected if your local city entity requires "permits" on new electrical installations) would perhaps remove any "insurance company" questions as to complying with NEC guidelines etc etc. - would it not?

In short: "Have ya' done this type of work before?"

Hello everyone,
I just purchased a Ten Tec Centurion and plan on installing my own 240V line. What type of Romex wiring should I use? This line will ONLY be used for the Ten Tec and nothing else.

Thanks,
Mike
W4MJA

[KB5UBI]

A few years ago, I had my A/C and furnace replaced with a Heat Pump. The A/C company required #6AWG for the heating elements and blower or they wouldn't do the install. I guess the reason was the 10KW emergency heating elements. #6 copper was not cheap but I found it on sale at Lowes for half of what the electrical supply companies wanted for it. My run was about 50 feet so I bought 60. I wish I would have bought more because my shack is located about 66 feet from the breaker box and I have no 240 in that room. I'll stick to running barefoot.

[WB2WIK]

A few years ago, I had my A/C and furnace replaced with a Heat Pump. The A/C company required #6AWG for the heating elements and blower or they wouldn't do the install. I guess the reason was the 10KW emergency heating elements. #6 copper was not cheap but I found it on sale at Lowes for half of what the electrical supply companies wanted for it. My run was about 50 feet so I bought 60. I wish I would have bought more because my shack is located about 66 feet from the breaker box and I have no 240 in that room. I'll stick to running barefoot.

You'd never need #6AWG for an amp in the shack. #14AWG will do just fine for that at legal limit power, and it's pretty cheap. You could install a sub-panel yourself, and go for it.

[WA7PRC]

You'd never need #6AWG for an amp in the shack. #14AWG will do just fine for that at legal limit power, and it's pretty cheap. You could install a sub-panel yourself, and go for it.

Ditto. My 12-2 w/GND NM wire was free. The tandem circuit breaker was free as well, and already installed. It was freed-up when I removed the electric service to a backyard "structure" that came with my house. My only expense was a rework box, NEMA 6-20R receptacle, and cover plate. I have a very stiff 240V supply.

[AG6K]

A few years ago, I had my A/C and furnace replaced with a Heat Pump. The A/C company required #6AWG for the heating elements and blower or they wouldn't do the install. I guess the reason was the 10KW emergency heating elements. #6 copper was not cheap but I found it on sale at Lowes for half of what the electrical supply companies wanted for it. My run was about 50 feet so I bought 60. I wish I would have bought more because my shack is located about 66 feet from the breaker box and I have no 240 in that room. I'll stick to running barefoot.

 #6 Cu is easy to splice using short lengths of Cu tubing, 6% Ag, 94% Sn solder, and vinyl electrical tape.

[W1QJ]

 #6 Cu is easy to splice using short lengths of Cu tubing, 6% Ag, 94% Sn solder, and vinyl electrical tape.

The NEC does not recognize soldering as an approved method of joining wires far as I know. Exothermic welding is however but I really never did it or know what that is, but I don't think soldering is considered exothermic. Since all splices must be in an approved type of junction box, there are things called "bugs" which work very well, also there are wire nuts that will join a pair of #6 copper wires. I use those al lthe time.

[WB2WIK]

T there are wire nuts that will join a pair of #6 copper wires.

Just make sure you have male wires.

[AC0TX]

If your house uses Romex then stay with Romex
If your house uses Greenfield [that is metal flex where wires are pulled thru ] then use that
I make my electrical work look blended in

[AF6LJ]

Just make sure you have male wires.

Funny how that works.
All I have is rolls and rolls of female wire.
Male wire nuts are hard as hell to find.