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Thread: SB-200 Damaged plate on "TUNE" capacitor

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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    SanDiego, People's Republic of California FEMA District 9
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    35,533

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    Quote Originally Posted by WB2WIK View Post
    How much damage could you do? It doesn't work, now.

    I know nothing about watches. This one says "Omega" on it. That's the last letter of the Greek alphabet.

    I think they were trying to tell me something.

    I remember attending the Dayton Hamvention in about '87 or so (I think) when Jean Shepard K2ORS was the guest speaker at the banquet and he was very funny. He said he never had any luck in ham radio, everything was always against him; but he bought a brand new rig, a Kenwood TS-440S so maybe now his luck would change.

    Then he said (no kidding), "Hmmmm. 'TS.' Maybe they're trying to tell me something."

    And he walked off the stage with that, to a standing ovation.
    That's funny
    Besides arn't those suppose to be good watches?
    I would rather be free than rich.
    Dick Gregory

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by AF6LJ View Post
    That's funny
    Besides arn't those suppose to be good watches?
    Probably, but I've had this one a really long time. I think it died of old age.
    A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.

    -- George Bernard Shaw

  3. #43

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    Nah, you just do that temporarily to help wire up the input switch wafer. In "final assembly," you remove that washer and nut, stick the shaft and bushing through the front (cosmetic) panel, and re-attach them on the outside, directly to the front panel. See assembly detail 4-6C.

    It's dumb.

    Youre right, guess I always missed that step and so did many others as most I get in here are on the inside. If I have to drop the panel the hardware goes inside if it was on the panel.....simple common sense.

    Just checked the 220, 221 and 2200 manuals are all the same there.

    DUMB!

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by KM1H View Post
    Youre right, guess I always missed that step and so did many others as most I get in here are on the inside. If I have to drop the panel the hardware goes inside if it was on the panel.....simple common sense.

    Just checked the 220, 221 and 2200 manuals are all the same there.

    DUMB!
    I thought so. I never thought about keeping the washer and nut on the tuned input subchassis because it would act like a "spacer" and keep the front edge of that away from the panel. Thinking about it now, that probably doesn't really matter.

    I'll try it your way next time I have to mess around with one.
    A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.

    -- George Bernard Shaw

  5. #45

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    It does bow the panel ever so slightly but its not noticable all buttoned up. I used to grumble about that and blamed Heath.

  6. #46

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    There is no doubt that without a nut on the inside if the outer nut gets loose the calibration of the switch can change and wreck havoc on the contacts. I carefully line up the contacts and tighten the outer nut on the front panel. Sure would be nice to have a nut on the inside. I can live with a slight bulge over a burned switch.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    SanDiego, People's Republic of California FEMA District 9
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    Quote Originally Posted by KM1H View Post
    It does bow the panel ever so slightly but its not noticable all buttoned up. I used to grumble about that and blamed Heath.
    That's really easy to fix with a step drill, and nobody is the wiser until they take the bandswitch knob off.
    I would rather be free than rich.
    Dick Gregory

  8. #48

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    Actually, a switch index with a forward facing (towards the knob) washer having a 90 degree blade (prong) sticking out 1/4" or so can physically "lock" the switch in position against the chassis or panel so the bushing can't possibly rotate, ever -- at least not accidentally. This is a five-cent item they could have used, and is used on many rotary switches.

    <Sigh>

    Oh well, if I were building an SB-200 or -220 from scratch today there are many things I'd change in the assembly process, including adding reduction drives to both controls. They were really cheap in 1975 and they're still cheap today. Plenty of room for them. I'd split the outer cover into two so the top half and bottom half are individually removable (just about "zero" added cost), snap on a STANDBY switch on the back end of the REL OUTPUT power pot (these used to cost $0.95 each from Centralab back in the day), and use low voltage keying (which really would have been exactly zero extra cost if done from the start).

    Funny thing is, they're still good amplifiers. Just not fully hatched.
    A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.

    -- George Bernard Shaw

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    north central Connecticut
    Posts
    943

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    Another major FUBAR was not having the 4-40 wafer hardware extend through all of the wafers. It was possible for the front indexing
    mechanism to move, along with the input filter wafer, while the PA tank wafer remained firmly attached to the rear Al. housing of the
    input filter shield. You had to very careful when tightening that nut to be sure everything was in alignment. BTW, I had thought about adding
    a pot with a switch and tried it. Not enough clearance to the filament transformer. Its tight back there. Next move might be using a different
    Rel/Grid/Voltage switch that has two poles and four positions to put the amp in standby.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    119

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    Finally I have the replacement TUNE cap and will replace this weekend. Problem is I have no Transceiver to test. Also on a somewhat related question whcuh verniers do you all recommended be used on this amp? Thinking of adding one.

    Also KA5S interesting idea about using varnish (clear finger nail polish)

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