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Thread: Kenwood TS-430S and digital modes?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Western Arizona
    Posts
    215

    Default Kenwood TS-430S and digital modes?

    I am very interested in PSK31, RTTY, Olivia and other modes.
    What do I need for my TS-430S to do this?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Shropshire. England.
    Posts
    17,229

    Default

    I suggest first off that you do some Googling and have a read about the requirements. Its too involved in explaining all the details. Download some software like FLDigi, Digipan and Airlink Express and read the help instructions so that you can begin to understand the basics

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Western Arizona
    Posts
    215

    Default

    I have! What HARDWARE would you use with THIS radio?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2000
    Location
    Chatsworth, CA
    Posts
    629

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AE7RZ View Post
    I have! What HARDWARE would you use with THIS radio?
    Well, you can setup your digital modes with plain audio
    cables and use VOX and not have to use any hardware.
    But this sometimes leads to RFI and ground loop issues and
    constant fiddling with computer and rig audio drive and waterfall levels.

    I'd make life simpler and use an interface, at least to key the rig.
    You can get some schematics here, for very simple to more
    involved (using isolation transformers, etc)
    http://www.qsl.net/wm2u/interface.html

    Or you can buy one of the dozens of off-the shelf sound card
    interfaces such as Rigblasters, Signalinks, Rascal, etc.
    Since many hams no longer are willing or able to make their
    own custom cables, most of the interface manufacturer's offer
    rig specific custom cables for their interfaces. I suggest, if possible,
    you buy the cable that connects to the ACC connector on the rear
    of your rig. (If it has one).
    These offer fixed level audio outputs,
    which eliminates one less variable in your configuration, and leaves
    the MIC input available. (If you chose an interface or cable that goes
    to the MIC Input, you will have to adjust both the mic level drive
    on the rig and the transmit level drive in the software.

    The Signalink (and a few others) have their own built in sound card,
    something a lot of hams appreciate, as it lets them run other sound card
    apps (MP3's, etc) while using Sound Card modes at the same time.

    Good luck es 73, Ken AD6KA

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    St.Thomas
    Posts
    3,623

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AE7RZ View Post
    I have! What HARDWARE would you use with THIS radio?

    Hello Keith

    Here is a straight forward answer on what hardware you might look at. It was my first choice for digital modes and I still operate it. SignaLink USB by Tigertronics. Easy to set up, easy to use and mine has worked flawlessly since September 2007. I use it daily for JT65 and other digital modes.

    Software of my choice is DM780 which comes packaged in Ham Radio Deluxe. There is a very good logbook included with the software.

    That is about as straight forward as it gets
    73, Rick VE3FMC

  6. #6

    Default

    Look at the KF5INZ Easy Digi thread in the Ham Made Gear forum.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Western Arizona
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Thank you!
    VE3MC, I've decided to go with the SLUSB. Now I think I also want to do VHF digital with my FT7900. Of course not both at the same time. Do you think I should get two, one for each radio or just get one with adapters?

    N5CEY, I like the EASY DIGI but I decided on the external controls. Thank you.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    St.Thomas
    Posts
    3,623

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AE7RZ View Post
    Thank you!
    VE3MC, I've decided to go with the SLUSB. Now I think I also want to do VHF digital with my FT7900. Of course not both at the same time. Do you think I should get two, one for each radio or just get one with adapters?

    N5CEY, I like the EASY DIGI but I decided on the external controls. Thank you.
    Well Keith I would just buy the jumpers that Tigertronics makes for the SignaLink. You simply pull one jumper board out and pop the other one in, then change the radio cables. Of course if money is no object why not buy two units. Then you can operate both radios at the same time. I do not do any VHF digital modes so that is not a problem for me. I had an Icom 7000 setup for digital for close to 6 months and never did any of those modes on VHF/UHF.

    As I said in my other post I have had my SignaLink USB for close to 5 years and have never had any issues with it. Good product IMO.

    Have fun, let me know when you get it. Oh, download the software for JT65, lots of hams use that mode and more are starting to use it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Home is West Memphis, AR
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Keith,
    You will need to be able to turn your power down on the 430 as digital modes 1. do not require as much power and 2. they 100% duty cycle. The 430 has no way to turn down the power except with mic gain, but wait there is a mod.

    And here is is:

    Variable power for TS430s


    This modification allows the squelch control to vary the power of the TS430s from a couple of watts to full power. The squelch control still operates on FM mode but is disabled on SSB. [ not very useful anyway.]

    Remove top cover of transceiver. The main board on show is the IF unit. Locate socket 26, with front of set towards you socket 26 is to the left of the board about midway back to front.
    Cut the wire to pin 6 leaving about 3cms wire on the plug. This wire is usually brown. The wire tail from the plug has to be connected to ground, This enables SSB receive, pin 4 is ground and can be used.
    The brown lead you have just cut comes from the small PCB behind the squelch control. It runs to pin 6, socket 6 on this board. It is the end pin to your right looking from the front of the set. Pull this brown wire free of the harness so that you have a free lead from the plug.

    Locate R211, a 1K resistor which connects the source of Q41 to ground. From the front of set.. right hand side, towards the front of the board. Cut the ground side of R211 leaving sufficient lead to solder to.
    The ground side should be the top end of the resistor, but check. Take the brown lead from the squelch board, suitably shortened, to the resistor. The squelch control , SSB section, is now in series with R211 and gives excellent control over the RF output level. Replace cover. Job done.

    In use, Maximum power is with the control fully anticlockwise.
    With the squelch pot set anticlockwise and the set in CW mode, Transmit a carrier [ you will need to short the key jack] and set the carrier control for full power. You can then vary power on all modes using the squelch control.
    Check the carrier control setting required for different bands, it will probably vary slightly between 160 and 10 metres. The protection circuits will still operate as before but if running low power the set will tolerate poor aerial matching without using the protection circuits.


    Enjoy.....See ya on the Waterfall

    De AE5SB

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    St.Thomas
    Posts
    3,623

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AE5SB View Post
    Keith,
    You will need to be able to turn your power down on the 430 as digital modes 1. do not require as much power and 2. they 100% duty cycle. The 430 has no way to turn down the power except with mic gain, but wait there is a mod.

    And here is is:

    Variable power for TS430s


    This modification allows the squelch control to vary the power of the TS430s from a couple of watts to full power. The squelch control still operates on FM mode but is disabled on SSB. [ not very useful anyway.]

    Remove top cover of transceiver. The main board on show is the IF unit. Locate socket 26, with front of set towards you socket 26 is to the left of the board about midway back to front.
    Cut the wire to pin 6 leaving about 3cms wire on the plug. This wire is usually brown. The wire tail from the plug has to be connected to ground, This enables SSB receive, pin 4 is ground and can be used.
    The brown lead you have just cut comes from the small PCB behind the squelch control. It runs to pin 6, socket 6 on this board. It is the end pin to your right looking from the front of the set. Pull this brown wire free of the harness so that you have a free lead from the plug.

    Locate R211, a 1K resistor which connects the source of Q41 to ground. From the front of set.. right hand side, towards the front of the board. Cut the ground side of R211 leaving sufficient lead to solder to.
    The ground side should be the top end of the resistor, but check. Take the brown lead from the squelch board, suitably shortened, to the resistor. The squelch control , SSB section, is now in series with R211 and gives excellent control over the RF output level. Replace cover. Job done.

    In use, Maximum power is with the control fully anticlockwise.
    With the squelch pot set anticlockwise and the set in CW mode, Transmit a carrier [ you will need to short the key jack] and set the carrier control for full power. You can then vary power on all modes using the squelch control.
    Check the carrier control setting required for different bands, it will probably vary slightly between 160 and 10 metres. The protection circuits will still operate as before but if running low power the set will tolerate poor aerial matching without using the protection circuits.


    Enjoy.....See ya on the Waterfall

    De AE5SB
    He can control the output power on PSK31 or any other digital mode with the TX gain on the SignaLink USB.

    Far better to run the rig at 100 watts and control the output with the SignaLink. You get a cleaner signal that way.

    I always leave the output of the rig set at 100 watts and simply control the output with the SignaLink USB TX control.

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