Kenwood TS-430S and digital modes?
I am very interested in PSK31, RTTY, Olivia and other modes.
What do I need for my TS-430S to do this?
I suggest first off that you do some Googling and have a read about the requirements. Its too involved in explaining all the details. Download some software like FLDigi, Digipan and Airlink Express and read the help instructions so that you can begin to understand the basics
I have! What HARDWARE would you use with THIS radio?
Well, you can setup your digital modes with plain audio
Originally Posted by AE7RZ
cables and use VOX and not have to use any hardware.
But this sometimes leads to RFI and ground loop issues and
constant fiddling with computer and rig audio drive and waterfall levels.
I'd make life simpler and use an interface, at least to key the rig.
You can get some schematics here, for very simple to more
involved (using isolation transformers, etc)
Or you can buy one of the dozens of off-the shelf sound card
interfaces such as Rigblasters, Signalinks, Rascal, etc.
Since many hams no longer are willing or able to make their
own custom cables, most of the interface manufacturer's offer
rig specific custom cables for their interfaces. I suggest, if possible,
you buy the cable that connects to the ACC connector on the rear
of your rig. (If it has one). These offer fixed level audio outputs,
which eliminates one less variable in your configuration, and leaves
the MIC input available. (If you chose an interface or cable that goes
to the MIC Input, you will have to adjust both the mic level drive
on the rig and the transmit level drive in the software.
The Signalink (and a few others) have their own built in sound card,
something a lot of hams appreciate, as it lets them run other sound card
apps (MP3's, etc) while using Sound Card modes at the same time.
Good luck es 73, Ken AD6KA
Look at the KF5INZ Easy Digi thread in the Ham Made Gear forum.
VE3MC, I've decided to go with the SLUSB. Now I think I also want to do VHF digital with my FT7900. Of course not both at the same time. Do you think I should get two, one for each radio or just get one with adapters?
N5CEY, I like the EASY DIGI but I decided on the external controls. Thank you.
Well Keith I would just buy the jumpers that Tigertronics makes for the SignaLink. You simply pull one jumper board out and pop the other one in, then change the radio cables. Of course if money is no object why not buy two units. Then you can operate both radios at the same time. I do not do any VHF digital modes so that is not a problem for me. I had an Icom 7000 setup for digital for close to 6 months and never did any of those modes on VHF/UHF.
Originally Posted by AE7RZ
As I said in my other post I have had my SignaLink USB for close to 5 years and have never had any issues with it. Good product IMO.
Have fun, let me know when you get it. Oh, download the software for JT65, lots of hams use that mode and more are starting to use it.
You will need to be able to turn your power down on the 430 as digital modes 1. do not require as much power and 2. they 100% duty cycle. The 430 has no way to turn down the power except with mic gain, but wait there is a mod.
And here is is:
Variable power for TS430s
This modification allows the squelch control to vary the power of the TS430s from a couple of watts to full power. The squelch control still operates on FM mode but is disabled on SSB. [ not very useful anyway.]
Remove top cover of transceiver. The main board on show is the IF unit. Locate socket 26, with front of set towards you socket 26 is to the left of the board about midway back to front.
Cut the wire to pin 6 leaving about 3cms wire on the plug. This wire is usually brown. The wire tail from the plug has to be connected to ground, This enables SSB receive, pin 4 is ground and can be used.
The brown lead you have just cut comes from the small PCB behind the squelch control. It runs to pin 6, socket 6 on this board. It is the end pin to your right looking from the front of the set. Pull this brown wire free of the harness so that you have a free lead from the plug.
Locate R211, a 1K resistor which connects the source of Q41 to ground. From the front of set.. right hand side, towards the front of the board. Cut the ground side of R211 leaving sufficient lead to solder to.
The ground side should be the top end of the resistor, but check. Take the brown lead from the squelch board, suitably shortened, to the resistor. The squelch control , SSB section, is now in series with R211 and gives excellent control over the RF output level. Replace cover. Job done.
In use, Maximum power is with the control fully anticlockwise.
With the squelch pot set anticlockwise and the set in CW mode, Transmit a carrier [ you will need to short the key jack] and set the carrier control for full power. You can then vary power on all modes using the squelch control.
Check the carrier control setting required for different bands, it will probably vary slightly between 160 and 10 metres. The protection circuits will still operate as before but if running low power the set will tolerate poor aerial matching without using the protection circuits.
Enjoy.....See ya on the Waterfall
He can control the output power on PSK31 or any other digital mode with the TX gain on the SignaLink USB.
Originally Posted by AE5SB
Far better to run the rig at 100 watts and control the output with the SignaLink. You get a cleaner signal that way.
I always leave the output of the rig set at 100 watts and simply control the output with the SignaLink USB TX control.