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 1990 Toyota Camry Mobile Radio Install
Hello, I'm currently installing a Kenwood Tm-V71A into My 1990 Toyota Camry. I realize that the best bet would be wire it directly to my battery. However, I would really like the radio to turn off and on with the car. Is there any way I can safely wire it to the fuse box? (Leaving the possible noise issues aside) And still get plenty of power for the radio? The radio would be only monitoring 90% or more of the time as I'm not an extremely active talker at the moment. However, I would need to get the full 50 watts (or close to it) that other 10% of the time. Any and all opinions are welcome! Thank you so much!
Last edited by KF7OIR; 01-13-2012 at 06:22 AM.
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Try it and see if it works. Should draw around 10-12 amps on TX. Try running on a lower power to save current, if you want.
We cannot tax our way to prosperity.
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Tips on how to do so
Do you have any tips on how to safely do so? I would really like an easy but reliable connection if I'm going to go that route. Some have suggested just sticking the wire into one of the unused circuits. (both the positive negative wires on the radio are fused) But i'm not sure how reliable and safe that would be. Any other suggestions?
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You need to make a solid connection to the fuse panel some how. Not being familiar with the vehicle, it's hard for me to guess. You might find a plug in fuse with a wire soldered to it to tap off power. That is the easiest way. You might find those at an auto supply or stereo install shop.
The negative lead can attach to a convenient ground point, like a seat bolt. Or a self tapping screw into the body or floor.
We cannot tax our way to prosperity.
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Other issues aside, you might be better NOT letting the radio "turn on and off with the car." I don't know how true it is, but I've always heard that, when you're starting the engine, there can be voltage spikes. So it's safer to start the engine and THEN apply power to the radio. FWIW.
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 Originally Posted by KF7OIR
Hello, I'm currently installing a Kenwood Tm-V71A into My 1990 Toyota Camry. I realize that the best bet would be wire it directly to my battery. However, I would really like the radio to turn off and on with the car. Is there any way I can safely wire it to the fuse box? (Leaving the possible noise issues aside) And still get plenty of power for the radio? The radio would be only monitoring 90% or more of the time as I'm not an extremely active talker at the moment. However, I would need to get the full 50 watts (or close to it) that other 10% of the time. Any and all opinions are welcome! Thank you so much!
Another way to do it is to buy a headlamp relay from an Auto parts store,put it in line with your "direct battery connection",& operate the relay from some point that is turned on in both "ignition on"& "accessories" positions.
The operate current of these things is quite small,& the contacts are designed for switching 2x 55watt headlights,or more in the case of driving lights.
73,VK6ZGO
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The one thing you never want to do, is use existing vehicle wiring to power an amateur transceiver. This goes double for due extenders, and accessory plugs.
If you have to have some way to power off the radio, then use a APO3 from West Mountain Radio, or the similar device from PowerWerx.
Note the arrow pointing to what is left of an accessory power plug.
wirefire.jpg
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Originally Posted by K0BG
The one thing you never want to do, is use existing vehicle wiring to power an amateur transceiver. This goes double for due extenders, and accessory plugs.
If you have to have some way to power off the radio, then use a APO3 from West Mountain Radio, or the similar device from PowerWerx.
Note the arrow pointing to what is left of an accessory power plug.
wirefire.jpg
Thousands of installs use existing car wiring without an issue. An improper install, regarless of where you attach to voltage, can cause problems. Car fires that I have seen were usually caused by wiring directly to the battery, not using a fuse, then the wire shorts out. Pulling less than 13 amps intermittantly from the fuse block should pose no problem, as long as fuses are properly used.
Joe
We cannot tax our way to prosperity.
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I did what your looking to do in my car and while i did use a "extend a fuse", i only used it to sense the state of the accessory wire, power came from the battery jump post with a suitably rated fuse. Alarm relays work well(they often have a N.C. contact), and generally run 30A safely, but make sure whatever relay you pick is meant for constant "on" use, as auto parts stores do carry some with high amp ratings but their often meant for starting small engines, they overheat on the coils for the most part if used in this application. Best all in one package i found was off a fog light install kit, had the relay, a unused switch and nearly all of the wiring(you may need a package of 3/8 ring terminals) and i recall it costing around 15 bucks.
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It isn't the fuse block that's the problem Joe. It is the wire itself—it is sized for the impressed load, and no more.
If to was okay to use existing vehicle wiring, then that's what the manufacturers would suggest, they don't!
The other consideration is voltage drop, and the IMD increases that go along with it.
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