I have successfully used 32 gauge wire as an inverted V antenna.
It held up all summer for me a few years back.
The diameter of your wire is really pretty irrelevant naturally thicker wire will last longer and be less likely to break.
Thicker wire also has a bit more bandwidth than thin wire but it has to be really large diameter to notice much difference.
Any tool is a weapon if you hold it right.
“The only difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.” A. Einstein
Well my antenna is inside my apartment & the counterpoise is a thin wire that came with the antenna
Does that help?
Cheers & 73
Pat Cook, KB0OXD
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To answer your questions from post #1:
To answer your question from post #3:
43 years in Amateur Radio
I'm building a portable vertical antenna with 8 radials and will be making it all of 22AWG hookup wire from Radioshack.
Buy whatever is convenient but there is no reason to believe that using 14AWG versus smaller gauge will make any improvement in reception.
p.s. 1/4 wavelength counterpoise for each band would be ideal, but do what you can. If you are doing one counterpoise, cut it for the lowest band and just lay it around the baseboard of the room.
Bos Ebal Nolom! "South African Cows on a mountain in the West Bank!"
Totally Deaf? If you cannot hear anything? It sounds like you have other problems. A coat hanger will receive something.
Heck, I've used electric fence wire for both the antenna and counterpoise, and in college even used wire from a surplus wire recorder spool for a stealth antenna. It worked pretty good until pigeons would fly into it. But it was cheap cheap cheap, so who cared?
But if you're not hearing anything with your present setup, you have other problems.
"It's a beautiful day in this neighborhood..."
You said it was for indoor use...well, a counterpoise is RF hot, so best you use insulated wire to prevent accidents.
Wire diameter at HF is not a significant factor.
This Space Intentionally Left Blank
Sorry about my terse response above. I'll claim "it was late" as an excuse, but excuse is all it is. I didn't even catch the second of three questions in your original post.
A counterpoise is required of virtually all antennas that are not balanced doublets or resonant half-wave monopoles. (And it usually helps to have a good counterpoise on the latter.) Many manufacturers claim their products that should have a counterpoise will work well without one. This is mostly promotional (read sales) stance, but there is some truth in it. A number of those antennas will be installed a significant distance from the transceiver, thus a long feedline will be used. If no choke balun is installed at the feedpoint, RF current will flow on the outside of the coax shield an it becomes the counterpoise. It may not be a "good" counterpoise, but if the length approximated a quarter-wavelength at the frequency in use, it will approximate the job of a counterpoise to some level.
For a close-in antenna with a short coax, this just won't happen. To achieve some usable level of efficiency, you need a separate quarter-wavelength counterpoise for each band you operate. The MFJ 1622 already compromises much efficiency for the sake of compact size. It is going to be a rather "deaf" antenna at best (compared to full-size antennas.) So do everything you can to get the most out of it.
1. Mount it outdoors, high, and in the clear
2. Use a quarter-wavelength counterpoise mounted to the antenna and stretched out to full length
3. Tune the antenna carefully to achieve resonance at the frequency in use (an antenna analyzer will help greatly)
4. Use quality low-loss feedline between the antenna and your radio
5. Use a quality antenna tuner, as the feedpoint impedance is sure to be 15 Ohms or less at resonance in the lower HF bands. A standard transceiver can't handle this.
From the 1950's through the 1970's Gotham antennas sold the V-40 and V-80 antennas to thousands upon thousands of new hams. Installed per Gotham's instructions, these were horrid antennas. With some knowledge, test equipment and added groundplane/counterpoise, one could make them work somewhat. But these antennas were still a considerable challenge, more handicap than facilitator as an RF transducer. I consider this MFJ antenna to be in the same category.
You should seek out an experienced local ham who is willing to help you get this straightened out. He may help get that thing working enough to please you. He may help you get into something much more efficient that costs next to nothing (not much of a challenge, really.) But this antenna is a tough challenge to face starting out.
Last edited by WA4BRL; 07-31-2011 at 05:46 PM.
43 years in Amateur Radio