If that tuner is drawing flies you had better see what is inside.
Originally Posted by WA6MHZ
Conspiracy Theorists Are People
Who Question The Statements Made By Known Liars.
After reading Tom's, W8JI, comments, allow me to qualify my earlier comments.
The computer systems in modern vehicles are darn near bullet proof, especially those from Ford. They're tested to over 3 terahertz, and to levels over 300 volts per meter. That is about as robust as you can get. You can garner more information here: http://www.fordemc.com/ But this isn't the whole story.
In modern vehicles, no matter the make, there are a myriad of sensors for just about every parameter you can imagine, and at least a dozen you'd never think of. Starting next year, the data collected by those sensors will be stored in nonvolatile memory (both HD, and NVROM). This is an edict from the NHTSA, and the EPA. Part of the data is used in the study of vehicle crashes. More insidious is the collection of data by vehicle manufacturers which could be used to deny warranty coverage. Such a system has already existed for the last few years, on all high-performance Corvettes, and Cadillac CTS-Vs. In at least one GM product, the last 30 seconds of cockpit audio is recorded, although every GM source denies that fact. If that wasn't enough, the data can be collected via GM's OnStar system, without your knowledge! It is big brother at its finest!
If you're one of those folks who install their mobile radio equipment on a Saturday afternoon, so you can leave right after church on Sunday for a vacation trip, you just might be in for a surprise! While the sensors are RF robust, that fact alone does not mean you cannot corrupt the data with RF. It is not uncommon for mobile operators to illuminate their CEL (check engine light, or MAL, MEL, and a few other noms), because RF snuck into their OBDII (Ob-Board Diagnostic level 2) system. A simple, and cheap code reader will easily erase these codes. Oh! But! The EOBD (extended OBD) is a whole new problem. Under law, code readers can't erase the extended data. Come warranty time, you might be in trouble.
The way around this dilemma, is to properly install your antenna (the most important part), and do the proper bonding and grounding as Tom mentioned. This includes, but is not limited to, proper common mode choking. And, the proper choking of motor leads. This keeps the RF outside the vehicle where it belongs. It also pays to remember, that common mode is a two way street. If the RF can get out, it can get in too. With all of the on-board computerization, the inside of a modern vehicle is almost as RF noisy as it is under the hood. What you end up with, if you take your time to do your install correctly, is a mobile station almost as quiet as your base installation. What's more, you can run lots of power if you have the bucks to do so. I have at least one friend, whose output power exceeds 1,500 watts. No RFI, ingress or egress. But I can guarantee you, the antenna isn't a clip-mounted stubby excuse for a dummy load!
Have used AL80A and Dentron DTR 1200 (2 X 572b) mobile with honda 3500 (included the auto idle-auto load) w/resitor quality spark plug and was pleased with results. Do not use a" line conditioner" in the AC line.will cause burnout of the gen head, avoid a Varac in the AC line, same reason...honda's are spendy but a lot less noisy than others both Amps were used for 7 years in a older F-250 side by side, and the AL80A developed more repair's in the "field", common proublem's were with the filter power supply and transformer not remaining secure due to the heavy-ness of the transformer and power supply filters mounting being no match for inertia. It required repeated 100 hour checking while under way at times, the answer was to bracket the transfomer with a heavy duty strap made or 1/8 in X 2in formed in a U placed on top of and down the sides of the transformer, bolted with backing plate from underside of amplifer. Added other flat metal to top of tie down hardware of the filter cap support screws to angle out and down to cabnet which helped..used loc-tight on all hardware. Antenna varied from Hustler fold over mast and individual band coil's -108"steel whip and tapped loading coil...and when stationary a random long wire over any tree available. Also had a 8D 12 volt 200lb. marine battery with a 3500 watt inverter...lost 100 to 200 watts using inverter Vs gen op's...but DENTRON amp still worked full power on each And was more rugged with the 572B tube nothing has beat that tube in the harsh conditions ...AL80A required one replacement of the 3-500z...572b did not..Most of the spark noise was on antenna pick up of the ford ignition spark noise related to engin rpm and required removing ant off of front bumper to rear bumper with loading coil of the hustler above cab level and it reduced some..noise. ONE warning Do not allow generator to run dry of fule or shut down with any gear in any " on position" Serious harn can and will result from the big BIG mastake of not removing ac on a diconnect master switch...avoid any "surge Protector" as the MOV will overheat and if inside a plastic Power Strip can cause FIRE...Had Fire Will NOT travel in future mobil with Surge protected power strip..Burned 3 or 4 times on me in my mobil, when fule ran dry gen wiped the device into a shorted, hot, high heat and melted upon restart of generator.
About 20 years ago I picked up a totally CB hacked HA-14 for peanuts with a DC supply. The only good thing it had was a 12V muffin fan.
Converted it to 6M and the guy still runs mobile with it, especially as a rover in contests.
I agree with Steve. Strap the amp down and mount it on some foam and it should be ok. After all the truck doesn't ride like a lumber wagon (Come on people it is a FORD )
As long as there are no issues with RFI in the truck computer you should be good to go.
I bought an AL-80A and had to bring it home from Michigan near Toledo Ohio. It sat in the back seat of my Mustang and the tube was not damaged on the ride home.