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Thread: refurbishing a Hygain th6dxx

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    11

    Default refurbishing a Hygain th6dxx

    Hi,
    I've brought an old one inside that I'd like to have ready to put up in the spring. I'd gotten it some 20 years ago and it was used at the time. With it came a SS-hardware set/clamps/plastic mounts,caps/etc.
    During this period of storage it say outside some of time, and in the garage the rest.
    So now I'm cleaning it up and getting it all sorted out. And I've some questions in general that hopefully one of you might answer.
    1. The traps-though none have any apparent damage besides the missing/deteriorated end caps, should they be pulled apart for an inspection if for no other reason than there probably may be dirt and old insect parts inside???
    2. If so, how does one pull them apart? I removed the set screw on one, but not wanting to do any damage, they seem hared to slide apart or the cover of the trap down?
    3. While looking in one of the vent holes on the trap, I can see a small section of what is probably a coil form but no wire is visible Otherwise, just put on the new end caps?

    Besides the trap question, another concern is that I'm missing the old parasitic elements but instead have 3 elements of what had been a 4 element 20 yagi (204ba?)Is there any reason not to use them in place, cut to length of course, of what had been original? The biggest change would probably be in the element diameter, being these were originally for 20 and not 10/15?

    Also, if I haven't worn out my welcome I seem to recall that they later made a th7 version-since I have the extra aluminum, should I be trying to add another element, and where would I get the new dimensions?

    I'd appreciate your input,
    73,
    Kathy, RN, wb2aio

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    north west wisconsin
    Posts
    981

    Default

    after I moved from wyo i re did my th6.
    new end caps and spiders were about 40 bucks.
    when you take the end caps off you will find the spider spacers inside may have deteriorated, sun bleached, break easily.
    I think now you can get all in a kit from hy-gain /mfj.

    hard part was seperating traps on the driven element.
    the th6 used element clamps that dimple the aluminum.
    you cant pull them apart. youhave to use about a 1/2 inch drill bit and gently drill the dimple untill you are thru the outer aluminum. you will drill the inner
    tube also somewhat.
    i had some extra tubing as i ruined someof the short pieces between traps.

    be prepared to do some metal work.......................

    you should be ablel to make the parasitic element from aluminum wire
    from hardware store. number 8 or 9 wire size.

    edit re read your message.
    thought you meant the loop for the matching element...
    which parasitic elements are you missing. as some are for 10 only and some mixed for all 3 bands. directors or reflectors. ????

    make a stand off bracket if you didnt get one or its lost.

    pulling some of the tubing apart I just used a vicegrip and twisted to force up the outer tubing at the dimple.
    then just make a new piece as vicegrip and twisting pretty much makes the piece usuless.

    need to do some rat tail filing on the inside of the tube ends at the dimples.

    becarefull if you take the trap covers off. I had aluminum on one crack.
    had to pop rivet on some folded up aluminum flashing to repair it.

    and when you get to frustrated I have an almost new th7 i will sell cheeeep. part of an estate.

    and you cant convert th6 to 7 as seven has extra driven element.
    lots of tubing and 4 traps involved.
    k9yli don..
    Last edited by K9YLI; 11-26-2008 at 09:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Hi Don, thanks for the reply.
    Quote Originally Posted by K9YLI View Post
    after I moved from wyo i re did my th6.
    new end caps and spiders were about 40 bucks.
    when you take the end caps off you will find the spider spacers inside may have deteriorated, sun bleached, break easily.
    I think now you can get all in a kit from hy-gain /mfj.

    I'm not sure what you mean by spider spacers. Do you mean what's inside the traps, that the outer aluminum sleeve of the trap is formed around? I see what looks like nylon/plastic but they don't appear deteriorated at all. Other plastic parts I have already.

    hard part was seperating traps on the driven element.
    the th6 used element clamps that dimple the aluminum.
    you cant pull them apart. youhave to use about a 1/2 inch drill bit and gently drill the dimple untill you are thru the outer aluminum. you will drill the inner
    tube also somewhat.
    i had some extra tubing as i ruined someof the short pieces between traps.
    I've already figured out how to separate the sections-yes some drilling is in order. But I can get the element sections apart.
    That still begs the question, is there any reason to actually pull a trap apart?

    be prepared to do some metal work.......................
    Beats some of the stuff I have to deal with every night at work
    you should be ablel to make the parasitic element from aluminum wire
    from hardware store. number 8 or 9 wire size.

    edit re read your message.
    thought you meant the loop for the matching element...
    which parasitic elements are you missing. as some are for 10 only and some mixed for all 3 bands. directors or reflectors. ????
    I have all the elements that have traps, it's the non-trapped ones I'll have to make from those old 20 meter mono-bander elements.
    make a stand off bracket if you didnt get one or its lost.
    I'm not sure what you mean by a stand off bracket...I do need a boom to mast bracket-that is missing, but I figure I can come up with something that will work, or even, gasp, order one!

    pulling some of the tubing apart I just used a vicegrip and twisted to force up the outer tubing at the dimple.
    then just make a new piece as vicegrip and twisting pretty much makes the piece usuless.

    need to do some rat tail filing on the inside of the tube ends at the dimples.

    becarefull if you take the trap covers off. I had aluminum on one crack.
    had to pop rivet on some folded up aluminum flashing to repair it.

    and when you get to frustrated I have an almost new th7 i will sell cheeeep. part of an estate.
    Thanks for the offer, but I'm trying to do this as low budget as possible

    and you cant convert th6 to 7 as seven has extra driven element.
    lots of tubing and 4 traps involved.
    That's what I needed to know-I really wasn't sure what changes they made between the two. I'll stick with 10-20 for now, as my old rig, TS-180 doesn't have the WARC bands either...
    You know, the more I read this and think about it, I guess I can take apart the elements and put new SS clamps on and the plastic pieces but how can one test a trap? After all I've never used this antenna and I'll hate to use up my IOU's getting this thing put up in the spring and then find that the traps are burned,open or otherwise bad...
    Thanks for your input Don,

    73,
    Kathy

    k9yli don..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    north west wisconsin
    Posts
    981

    Default

    I will try to answer the quiestions in order of something or other.

    yes the 'spiders' are the plastic 3 legged wheels inside the trap s that hold the outter sleeve in place concentric to the element.

    you can check the traps with an ohm meter.. element to element..
    trap is a coil inbetween. should be very little ohms. I did slide the trap covers off the traps,(covers are the capacitor) and double check the
    screws that connect coil wire to the element. corrosion there. loose screws.

    'stand off 'bracket i was refering to was for the matching element. my 'edit' spereated the lines a bit.
    as for a boom to mast bracket, you can get a th7 bracket which is better than the th6.
    th6 mast runs thru the middle of the boom. th7 has a side mount so antenna can be completely =assembled on the ground and then attched to side of the boom.

    all the non trapped elements can be made from aluminum tubing from hardware store, ACE home depot lowes etc.

    suspect your boom to mast clamp will be some big bucks. in the $75 region.


    and hurry up with the rebuild. you shoud know by now that all antenna work has to be done in the coldest part of january.


    email me k9yli@aol.com for some more info.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    OK, I took a closer look today and I didn't realize that they weren't solid wheels but were open spiders, as you described. Trouble is, they had so much mud/debris that I thought they were solid.... Which makes me more concerned about what must be further inside the trap.
    I did do a resistance check though, and all but one show conductivity through the trap. The bad on is on the 10/20 director and only one side. I also see the dimples you mentioned and will try and drill one out to see if I can slide the outer cover and then what's inside!
    I do need a new boom to mast bracket and will look for the one you describe or order it-do have the cast aluminum block part and at one time did have the other half but that disappeared somewhere down the line....
    Thanks for the help,
    I guess I should be thinking of taking can of compressed air to them to see what I can blow out.
    73,
    Kathy



    Quote Originally Posted by K9YLI View Post
    I will try to answer the quiestions in order of something or other.

    yes the 'spiders' are the plastic 3 legged wheels inside the trap s that hold the outer sleeve in place concentric to the element.

    you can check the traps with an ohm meter.. element to element..
    trap is a coil inbetween. should be very little ohms. I did slide the trap covers off the traps,(covers are the capacitor) and double check the
    screws that connect coil wire to the element. corrosion there. loose screws.

    'stand off 'bracket i was refering to was for the matching element. my 'edit' spereated the lines a bit.
    as for a boom to mast bracket, you can get a th7 bracket which is better than the th6.
    th6 mast runs thru the middle of the boom. th7 has a side mount so antenna can be completely =assembled on the ground and then attched to side of the boom.

    all the non trapped elements can be made from aluminum tubing from hardware store, ACE home depot lowes etc.

    suspect your boom to mast clamp will be some big bucks. in the $75 region.


    and hurry up with the rebuild. you shoud know by now that all antenna work has to be done in the coldest part of january.


    email me k9yli@aol.com for some more info.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    north west wisconsin
    Posts
    981

    Default

    email me before you order anything ....k9yli@aol.com
    perhaps a deal you cant refuse..

    also just use the garden hose to clean out the traps.l

    also trap covers/ the capacitor sleeve should just slide off trap after taking out the sheet metal screw on each end..

  7. #7

    Default th6dxx

    MFJ have the trap caps in there catalog see page #75.

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