I am wanting to know if anybody would know.
I have a CDE AR-22R rotor and I am trying to find out how many volts does the control box put out on it?
Because I have 3 of these rotors and they start working real good for just a few minutes while I am turning the rotor and then it stops and just humes.
So I want to check and make sure the power supply isn't bad in the control box.
Also does anybody know where I can find another motor or power supply for this rotor?
Norm's Rotor Service covers this question --
and may more FAQ on their web site!
4. What happened to CDE and Telex/HyGain?
The Cornell Dubilier Electronics company sold their rotor division to Telex/Hy-Gain in 1981. Hy-Gain decided to support only the AR-22, AR-40, CD45-II, Ham-4, and Tailtwister rotors. All rights to the other rotors were assigned to Norm's Rotor Service.
Today we are the only facility with parts for the original units.
We have almost all parts for the AR-22, AR-33, AR-40, AR-50, BT-1, TR-44, CD-44, Ham-M, Ham-2, and Ham-3 rotors. Telex/HyGain sold the HyGain line of rotors to MFJ in May of 1999 (Of course, we also have parts for the rotors that Hy-Gain continues to support.).
18. How can I tell if my motor capacitor is bad?
If your rotor does not run or is hard to start, expecially in the colder months, the motor start/run capacitor is a good bet for the fault. Most motor start/run capacitors are 108-155 mfd. caps, but these are bipolar capacitors. It's often difficult, in today's market, to find these capacitors. When checking a capacitor, it should be within 20% of rated capacitance and must show no signs of corrosion or burning. DO NOT use a D.C. capacitor as a motor start/run capacitor. If you suspect a bad capacitor, you can obtain one from many electric motor shops. Just disconnect the wires from terminals 4 and 8 on your CDE/HyGain box and clip lead the new capacitor in place to test. (See question/answer 14 for precautions.)
14. Can I use a Ham-2 rotor control box with my T2X rotor? Are the Ham-2, Ham-3, Ham-4 and T2X control boxes interchangeable?
Yes, for the most part, all of the 8-wire rotors except for the TR-2 series are interchangeable. You can use a TR-44 series 3; Ham-M series 3, 4, or 5; CD-44/Ham-2; CD-44/Ham-3; Ham-4; or T2X control unit with any of the listed rotors or vice versa. However, the Ham-M and TR-44 series 1 and 2 rotors were wired differently and are not interchangeable with anything else. So, trying to use a series 1 or 2 control on a newer rotor will destroy the rotor pot instantly.
To be sure that you have one of the interchangeable controls, verify that the motor start capacitor is across terminals 4 and 8. To verify that the rotor is one of the interchangeable models, look for the 500-ohm pot resistance across terminals 3 and 7. If your rotor and control unit pass these inspections, they are interchangeable with others which also pass.
12. Why does the direction indicator meter stop and start and give an erratic indication when my rotor turns?
Contrary to popular belief, this problem is caused by a dissimilar metals problem in the rotor. The rotor pot, which is the sensor for the position indicator, is made of tungsten wire with a copper wiper. The pot shaft is turned by an aluminum housing. This combination causes corrosion to accumulate on the pot, which then causes erratic movement of the meter. The condition can be cured by cleaning the pot every year or two with an old toothbrush and some contact cleaner.
First, last, and every step in between is to replace the "start" capacitor. It's like a computer hard drive; it's not a matter IF it will fail, but just a matter of WHEN. It's the weak point in the system.
If you don't have a local parts store, try an appliance repair shop. The value isn't extremely critical, but try to keep within 10-20% of the original value, but don't settle for a lower voltage rating. ALSO, be aware, it's a non-polarized capacitor, and has a very difficult job of passing a lot of AC current on startup of the motor. You definitely can NOT use a standard electrolytic capacitor as a replacement; to do so would cause component failure in short order, perhaps with explosive results.
Even if there are other problems, replacing the capacitor can't hurt, and often solves 90% of the problems.
Typically, the rotator motor runs on 24-36 Volts AC.
IF you had to purchase a REBUILT AR-22 model, look at these prices!
Definitely worth getting repaired for that HDTV antenna or small VHF/UHF yagi.
AR-22 Rotor and Control - Designed to rotate large television antennas.
Will support stacked arrays and deep fringe area antennas. $249.00
AR22 Rotor Only - $179.00
AR22 Control unit (box) only - $79.00
Originally Posted by w9gb
GASP! And to think I paid $59.95 for my AR-33 from Allied Radio in Chicago... then again, that was in 1967. Still works, but I've been through four motor start caps in that period.
Is the rotor turning through 360 degrees? Turn the control knob both ways. If the control box "clicks" and then stops but then "hums" you will notice that there is a lever on the bottom of the control unit. Move that lever back and forth until the control box stops "humming".
The AR-22 series does not have a brake and they WILL drift in heavy winds. To recalibrate the box with the rotor you turn the control all the way counter clockwise and then see if the box indicator stops but the control box still "hums". If so, then move the lever until it stops. If the indicator stops and the box does not "hum" then turn the control all the way clockwise and see if it stops before getting all the way through. If so, then move the lever until it stops.
If you do need a new starting capacitor then get one of the proper value that is designed for motor starting and is in the 120 VAC range. You can get this at electrical supply stores, motor rebuilding shops, W.W. Grainger, and so forth. The capacitor will be larger in diameter than the original but it will last many times longer than the 65 volt original capacitor. Also, the 120 VAC capacitor WILL cost between 1/3rd and 1/2 as much as an "exact" replacement capacitor from an amateur radio dealer. You will have to cut the leads from the original capacitor (right at the capacitor) and then solder them to the terminals on the replacement capacitor since those are designed for "push on" connectors.
You will not be able to use the original capacitor clamp to hold the new capacitor in place because the new one is of a larger diameter. However, there is plenty of room in the AR-22 control box for the new capacitor.
I have 2 AR-22 rotors one of which is on my "short" tower to turn my VHF yagis. Both of them are over 50 years old and are still going strong. Now I have replaced several starting capacitors over the years but the rotors themselves are still working fine.
I took the rotor off the tower and hooked the control box up to it with 5 foot of wire what it does I can turn it ether way S E W N all the rotor does is hum I can try taking my hands and helping it turn it will start turning real slow and then stop and hum again.
What I was wanting to know should I put a new Capacitor in the rotor or the control box?
The starting capacitor is located in the control box soldered to the terminal strip. There is no capacitor in the rotor itself. Good luck.
CDE Ham 2 Rotor Controller Faceplate
I have a N centered faceplate.
I would like to get a S centered faceplate.
I am on the list with Norm's Rotor (if one comes in)
Is there anywhere where I can get one or download one??
The Ham II uses a meter for the direction indicator. On the Ham II that I owned for several decades the south center meter scale was printed on the back of the north center meter scale. You have to carefully remove the meter scale (2 screws if I remember correctly) and then turn it around.
Now I do not know if all the Ham II meters have this. But, the one that I had definitely had the south center on one side and the north center on the other side.