I've been reading up about using laser printers to make iron on etch resist patterns.
Does anyone have any experience?
Previously I've used a resist pen (sharpie). I want to make neater and thinner traces now, so I figured I'd start using my laser printer.
What sort of paper do you use?
Any special techniques? Got any tips you'd like to share?
What about the etchant? Is ferric chloride OK or will I have to use something else?
I have to think back a few years for this one, but back in college we used both a plotter and a laser printer to make transparencies for making PCBs
The laser printer method used overhead projector transparencies that you can buy off the shelf at a computer store. I remember that the exposure times in the UV box were rather critical though as the opaqueness of the tracks on the transparencies was not ideal, although that may have been more to do with the printer we used.
yes, ferric chloride is just fine for that.
as I understand it, the material used for laser printers is small balls of plastic and it is melted onto the photo paper, and then ironed onto the pc board, which melts it to the board.
I have not done it but have heard it can be difficult to get small traces as used with smt parts to stick good.
some of the pads for smt chips are very small.
the best method to use I have found it to use positive photo resist boards and print the pattern on a laser type transparency, then using a standard fluorescent light it takes about 8 min of exposure to transfer the the pattern to the board, then you develop it in a positive developer till all clean, then you place it in the enchant till all the unused copper is gone.
you can get the photo pc boards from several places, I get mine from Ocean State Electronics on line, they also have the enchant and developer, this makes a very clean board with small pads and traces very neat and clean
Not talking about the UV method. That's a bit too expensive for the few PCBs I plan to make.
Originally Posted by [b
I'm talking about something like this.
The toner itself is used as etch resist.
You've got all the info you need in the link you posted. I have used this method before with very good results. One thing that is a huge help is a Dremel tool mounted in their drill press adapter. Keeps you from breaking a lot of expensive carbide bits while drilling.
That link is good info - I've tried regular paper and it didn't work so good. I used the overhead transparency tpye with good results. I'd expect the photo paper might work ok also. I might try that next time - but the transparancy type worked good for several small PCB projects I've done. Go for it and have fun.
73 de Ken H.
CHECK OUT THIS SOURCE THAT I USE FOR MATERIALS
Originally Posted by [b
J-TRONICS, INC. in Rockford Ill.
866 - 965-6775
They sell photo sensative copper clad PCB material, etchant, photo sensitive transparencies and most any thing you may want / need, even kits TO MAKE YOUR OWN PCB PROJECTS. I designed/built my exposure , developer , etchant etc. MOTION devices , use those plastic food storage products > not metal<. Glass oven ware is expensive, will break, BUT is best. WELL SEALED liquid chemicals can store in a frig.to extend life cycles.
A CHEAPER "smaller flood lamp" works for exposure
lighting. IF U phone ; explain you are wanting a "tutorial"
instruction in the various methods / materials . They have a DATAK INSTRUCTION MANUAL, about a dollar. THEIR CAT. IS FREE WHEN AN ORDER IS PLACED .
IF U want to "automate "the agitation of the processes
you can get gear motors from ALL ELECTRONICS, GOOGLE THEM TO VIEW PRODUCTS [ AC AND DC].
IF U need advice/help designing it ; contact me via EM.
apparently from the responses, most people havent done this method. i bookmarked it. i would just follow the instructions - they tell you everything you need to know.
Heathkit Hot Water 101
Here is another link to look at.
I used to make my own boards using a pen or the "iron transfer" method. Back in the 80's, before laser printers were everywhere, you would copy the pattern onto the transfer sheet using a photocopier.
My time has become too valuable (to me) to fool around with making the PC boards, and drilling lots of small holes. I now use Express PCB to manufacture all of my small quantity needs. They will supply 3 complete boards that are 2.5 by 3.8 inches for about $60. Some of my boards are very small, so I put several on one of these bigger boards, then cut them out when they arrive. The software is free.
We cannot tax our way to prosperity.
I do it all of the time.
I've found that the best paper type is the cheapest inkjet (not laser) paper that you can find, the cheaper the better it will work(! Even better, though expensive is a bayarta (clay) coated photo paper. Be sure it is real paper and not the plastic ccoated stuff (all color papers are plastic coated). I have a pack of outdated Agfa B+W matte single weight paper that I use when I want really fine traces for SMT work.
Despite what others say against it, I use steel wool to burnish the copper, I then wipe the surface clean with acetone.
I use a household iron on high for about (depends on the weight of the paper) 2 to 5 minutes, then drop it into a bowl of water while hot and let it soak for quite a while before peeling he paper off.
With a little practice you generate a perfect trace board everytime.