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Treated lumber question

Discussion in 'ex-Rag Chew Central' started by KC7JTY, Jul 28, 2009.

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  1. KC7JTY

    KC7JTY Banned QRZ Page

    I just built a free standing roof to go over my 8x10 concrete slab out back and am concerned about the 4 vertical 4x6 treated (green) timbers that are made of Grand/White Fir.
    The lower ends are set in concrete but they are only treated with the green chemical to prevent rotting and nothing to prevent cracking and warping exposed to the weather.

    Should I add some additional coating/treatment to prevent problems, and if so what would be a good call?
  2. K7UNP

    K7UNP Ham Member QRZ Page

    If they are set in concrete and fastened to the roof properly then I would not be "very" concerned about cracking or warping. Talk to the lumber yard folks. They get questions like this all the time. If the wood is treated and it is fastened at both ends as you described they should be good to go for quite a few years. Where is this structure located geographically? That makes a difference also.
  3. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Premium Subscriber QRZ Page

    I'm not an expert, but where I'm from (the Northeast) we used to plastic wrap timbers before setting them in concrete. I saw "old timers" doing this for years, and asked them why. They all pretty much concurred: "That's what makes them last longer than you'll be alive."

  4. KC7JTY

    KC7JTY Banned QRZ Page

    In the land of 9 foot snows and 60 mph winds, North Idaho.
  5. KC7JTY

    KC7JTY Banned QRZ Page

    I'm not concerned about the lower ends rotting, it's the exposed above ground sections I'm worried about.
  6. WF7A

    WF7A Subscriber QRZ Page

    If you can find out whether the posts are made of heartwood or not, that would help in determining whether they'll twist or not: Heartwood is wood cut from the core, or heart, of the tree and usually remains fairly straight whereas wood cut from the outermost part of the tree trunk tends to warp like crazy.

    If you can still see the ends of the posts and there are concentric rings from the center, then chances are it's heartwood. BTW: If the wood was kiln-dried when you bought it then there should be very little warping afterward.

    I'd check it out with a lumber outlet, first, but I'd coat the wood with a good sealant that has anti-fungal and/or insecticide in the mix to keep the wood healthy for years to come.
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2009
  7. KC9IUX

    KC9IUX Ham Member QRZ Page

    Applying sealant helps.

    Warping occurs when the wood dries out, especially if it dries in a short time.
  8. KC7JTY

    KC7JTY Banned QRZ Page

    At least 2 are heartwood which tends to split more than the outer cuts.
    I'll call Ziggy's and see what they say as far as sealant, but in the past I tend to get a different answer depending on the person and day of the week.

    Steel roofing panel installation is a real trip, seems the special screws needed to hold it down are harder to get than dope, and you must buy a bag of 100 at a time. Hey man....can I cop some screws? (come back next week, I might have something then)
  9. KC7JTY

    KC7JTY Banned QRZ Page

    Looks like all helluva is about to break loose here with 50 mph winds, lightning, 1/2" hail and heavy rain. Good thing I got all the screws into the roofing panels today. (Murphy's Law)
  10. AC0H

    AC0H Ham Member QRZ Page

    The only thing the "green" does is slow down the natural rotting process and keep insects out. It does nothing for UV or water.

    I would suggest an latex stain which does two things. You don't have to look at the unnatural green color and it seals the wood. I use it on my deck which gets pounded by direct sun all summer.
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