rotator to control wiring diagram

Discussion in 'General Technical Questions and Answers' started by KG4IES, Jun 6, 2003.

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  1. KG4IES

    KG4IES Ham Member QRZ Page

    I am looking for a wiring diagram for an 8 coductor ham 2 and cde controler. I bought the rotator and controler used and need to hook up a new control cable. An internet address where I can get a wiring diagram would be great.
  2. K9STH

    K9STH Ham Member QRZ Page

  3. W9GB

    W9GB Ham Member QRZ Page

    Jim -

    From Norm's Rotor Service FAQ

    1. What is the color code for the cable connecting my rotor and control box?
    The colors vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. But it really doesn't make any difference, as long as you make sure that you're connecting terminal 1 on the rotor to terminal 1 on the control box, terminal 2 to terminal 2, and so on. Also, on the HAM series and T2X rotors, you need to be aware that the heavy wires must go to terminals 1 and 2. After that, a lot of people (including Norm) like to use the resistor color code, just because it's easy to remember. If you want to do this, you can just use the wires in the order of the resistor color code: black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, grey, white.

    8. Which is better, the 51465 terminal board, the Amp plug, or the Cinch-Jones plug, directly wired to the rotor on my Ham-4 or T2X?
    The 51465 terminal board supplied by Hy-Gain uses plated terminal screws which will often rust within days of installation. At Norm's Rotor Service we supply the same terminal board with stainless screws. These boards have survived very well for years with little or no corrosion. This is highly recommended; it is available as part number 51465S. The Amp/Cinch plugs that Hy-Gain and CATS are supplying are okay, but they are not rated for the solenoid current. These must be totally waterproofed to prevent water from getting into the connectors. They also make servicing of the rotor much more difficult.

    14. Can I use a Ham-2 rotor control box with my T2X rotor? Are the Ham-2, Ham-3, Ham-4 and T2X control boxes interchangeable?
    Yes, for the most part, all of the 8-wire rotors except for the TR-2 series are interchangeable. You can use a TR-44 series 3; Ham-M series 3, 4, or 5; CD-44/Ham-2; CD-44/Ham-3; Ham-4; or T2X control unit with any of the listed rotors or vice versa. However, the Ham-M and TR-44 series 1 and 2 rotors were wired differently and are not interchangeable with anything else. So trying to use a series 1 or 2 control on a newer rotor will destroy the rotor pot instantly.

    To be sure that you have one of the interchangeable controls, verify that the motor start capacitor is across terminals 4 and 8. To verify that the rotor is one of the interchangeable models, look for the 500-ohm pot resistance across terminals 3 and 7. If your rotor and control unit pass these inspections, they are interchangeable with others which also pass.

    17. What gauge of control cable is recommended for various distances between the rotor and the control box?
    On the TR-44, CD-44, and CD-45 rotors, the standard control cable includes two #18 conductors and six #22 conductors, and it's fine for runs up to about 300 feet. On the Ham-series rotors and the TailTwisters, this cable is good up to about 200 feet. If your run exceeds these distances, move up to a heavy-duty cable, which includes two #16 and six #18 conductors which should be good for runs up to 300 feet. For more detailed information on control cables (and coax, too) contact Joel at The RF Connection.

    18. How can I tell if my motor capacitor is bad?
    If your rotor does not run or is hard to start, expecially in the colder months, the motor start/run capacitor is a good bet for the fault. Most motor start/run capacitors are 108-155 mfd. caps, but these are bipolar capacitors. (It's often difficult, in today's market, to find these capacitors. When checking a capacitor, it should be within 20% of rated capacitance and must show no signs of corrosion or burning. DO NOT use a D.C. capacitor as a motor start/run capacitor. If you suspect a bad capacitor, you can obtain one from many electric motor shops. Just disconnect the wires from terminals 4 and 8 on your CDE/HyGain box and clip lead the new capacitor in place to test. (See question/answer 14 for precautions.)

    73 de Greg
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