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Repairing GORRILLA HOLES

Discussion in '"Boat Anchor" & Classic Equipment' started by WA6MHZ, Jul 14, 2017.

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  1. AA7EJ

    AA7EJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Aha, so what cold setting goop they use to pot ? ( As in "potting the components" so there are no misconceptions about my post. Get it?)

    73 Shirley
     
  2. AB2YC

    AB2YC Premium Subscriber QRZ Page


    Once I was shown some that was called Chico

    as I recall it was mixed with water and hardened like a rock
     
  3. N1OOQ

    N1OOQ Ham Member QRZ Page

    I mod my rigs... but I try to do it reversably, in case someone, someday has other plans.
     
  4. WB2GCR

    WB2GCR Ham Member QRZ Page

    Mmmm...

    Put some of that Kapton or just masking tape all around those epoxied holes and then sand those plugged up holes
    FLAT. Use a backer block, just don't sand through the tape!

    A better method might be to use that kapton tape as a "release" material. (test first with the epoxy)
    So, tape it to something flat, like a piece of metal.
    now clamp the metal + tape side over the hole from the front.
    next, fill the hole from the rear with the epoxy.
    wait for it to set, remove metal + tape.
    after it sets the result will be a nearly dead flat surface on the outside of the chassis.

    IF you have clear epoxy, you might be able to tint that as well... :D

    Another method is to use "Bondo" but that may or may not adhere in the hole sufficiently well.

    The other issue is that you've got a wrinkle/krinkle plaint on that old Heathkit box. So, just putting on a paint of
    different finish (not wrinkle) and different gloss will not "blend" anyhow.

    A front panel hole obviously requires a lot more work than a rear panel hole...

    _-_-

    I think vendors sell "Heathkit" paint colors... if they're in a spray can, you can "bleed" that off and
    shoot it using an "airbrush" sprayer and get very good results. Also there are ways to get "regular"
    paint to wrinkle...
     
  5. WB0RIO

    WB0RIO Ham Member QRZ Page

    One more thing to consider, since this is RF equipment, a hole patched with plastic will
    offer little shielding compared to the original metal. It might be worthwhile to embed
    some fine copper screen in the epoxy on the inside of the case so that it overlaps the
    entire hole. If possible, the screen should also be bonded to a nearby screw or connector
    so that it is effectively grounded to the case.
     
  6. KV6O

    KV6O Ham Member QRZ Page

    I guess I don't get all the effort for the backside of a dummy-load.

    Who cares if there is an extra hole or 2? Unless it affects performance, this is a dummy-load, not a classic car! o_O

    Obviously, to each their own, but really? Do folks really worry about this stuff?
     
  7. KF5FEI

    KF5FEI Ham Member QRZ Page

    I think I'd fashion a couple of covers that look like they belong and bolt them on.

    It really kills me when someone mods something and they make a mess of it. The guy I'm impressed with is the one who can take something apart, mod it, put it back together, and leave no trace.
     
  8. N1OOQ

    N1OOQ Ham Member QRZ Page

    Well if you have an otherwise nice-looking shack, and you plan to use your new dummy load, you probably would prefer that it wasn't the single turd in the ice cream, so to speak.
     
  9. KV6O

    KV6O Ham Member QRZ Page

    Maybe it's just me, but if the nice looking shack has a dummy load on the shelf facing front, how do holes in the back change the look? Or does AR stand for more than Amateur Radio? o_O

    Just my opinion... :cool:
     
  10. KM1H

    KM1H Subscriber QRZ Page

    JB Weld is good but Devcon is better for some jobs! Ive repaired cracked flathead engine blocks into the water jackets with that stuff as well as Create rotator housings that got all chewed up from too much antenna. Gob it on, file down, drill and tap and both have been fine for a decade.
     

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