Kenwood TS 480 HX power

Discussion in 'Mobile Radio Systems' started by KG7CBJ, Sep 9, 2018.

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  1. K0BG

    K0BG Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    I said DYNAMIC power increase. When speaking in terms of SSB, the valleys in the speech are still at zero power level (ideally), but the peaks increased (in this case) by 3dB.
     
  2. AD7VB

    AD7VB Ham Member QRZ Page

    The other thing on the 480hx is as soon as you plug a tuner into the tuner control port the radio cuts back to 100 watts. I guess because Kenwood's tuner is only rated for that.

    You also don't need to run it at 200 anyway crank it back to a 100. Mine runs fine there.

    Still I think there are better options then the HX.
     
    KU3X likes this.
  3. K0BG

    K0BG Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    Actually, it is because the tuner isn't robust enough to handle 200 watts, even PEP. Any number of other tuners can be plugged in, if indeed you really need one. In a mobile, you don't if you use a screwdriver type antenna.
     
  4. KG7CBJ

    KG7CBJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    There is 2 way to charge the system one is a Honda5000 generator and this system is also solar powered.
    And yes there is AC power.
     
  5. KE8FWJ

    KE8FWJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    It would be highly presumptuous to suggest getting an Astron 70A PSU ($200-ish) and plug into the AC power. Although if this was all mine I'd do just that and finnagle anywhere between 19VDC - 26VDC off my batterybank somewhere into the Astron somewhere after the bridge rectifier (Linear transformer safely disconnected & AC supply not used). I don't know what the schematics or any wiring configuration is of the install so would implore to use common sense and extra margin for safety.

    The TS-480HX only needs around 45A at full tilt (FM mode and band of choice) and that the 50A Astron can deliver day in, day out, all day long.

    You need a soldering iron, DMM, common sense & a inclination to succeed. Where there's a will there's a way and all that. YMMV :)

    Have fun, have fun, have fun :)
     
  6. KG7CBJ

    KG7CBJ Ham Member QRZ Page

    I did just that Astron 70m power supply. Xmas came early
     
  7. WQ6N

    WQ6N XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    As a new owner to a TS-480HX this is good info. The N8XJK are being built again by KM-Electronics and am waiting for a 40am super booster. I rarely run any final at full power (default to 50%) and not a long winded person by nature (more in the digital realm). The plan is to run the 480 mobile with a screwdriver antenna controlled by a TurboTuner-2. I am wondering, if the antenna controller uses the AT port on the radio, does that drop the power down to 100w max? If so, I guess that I can tune the screwdriver and then disconnect/disable the tuner if more power is desired.

    I was considering connecting both power leads to one standardized 50amp powerpole connector (Y pigtail). The output of the boost regulator is a 50amp powerpole. The power sources, input to the boost regulator, battery and power supplies, are standardized with 175amp powerpole connectors. This allows me to reconfigure the systems according to the primary power availability (112amp DC power supply or battery) and different mobile radios.

    It is my hope that the single 40amp Super Booster will provide a good 100~150w operation. I am also researching the RF Sense feature of the boost regulator. I have read that there is a need for an attenuator between the RF T at the radio and the boost regulator connector. Does anyone out there have Tim's notes regarding the 480HX and the N8XKJ boost regulator? Again, I am thinking of an adjustable RF tap and attenuator, but am concerned with the vibration in mobile operation. I also do not want to introduce an impedance mismatch with a T connector. The manual does state a short conductor (stub) between the radio and regulator. I may have to break this out as a separate thread.

    73, JohnF
     
  8. WQ6N

    WQ6N XML Subscriber QRZ Page

    Totally out to lunch. The TurboTuner-2 does not use the AT port. Its a combination of the serial port and 6 pin DIN. A non-issue.
    I did have a issue with a used TGE Super Boost were the Positive Battery feed insulation was split into two right at the bend. I suspect that the heat from the current on the 8awg wire and/or heat from the location (e.g. trunk of a car) caused the insulation to fail. There were bare wires on top and under the wire.
    Taking the battery feed lines out of the board was a tedious process. There was a lot of stuff to take out if the main board was to be removed. Cutting the 8awg conductors on the inside of the unit was first followed by pulling the wire through the strain relief. Pulled the insulation jacket up enough to get a solder iron on the connection. It took a hot iron and a little fresh solder to heat up the connection enough to pull the wire out of the hole.
    The hole was cleaned with a gun type solder removing tool and finished off with a drill bit and small jewelers file. I cut the existing 8awg Red/Black wire back to a known good location (less than a inch) with the black Negative lead a touch shorter than the Red positive lead. Pre-tinned each end lightly with a high grade solder and filed to a smooth round tip about 1/4 inch in length. Starting with the Negative black lead, I placed the conductor into the respective hole on the board and used the same hot tipped solder iron and high grade solder to sweat the conductor into place with a small cone up the length of the conductor. The Red/Black holes on the board are only about 3/16 inch apart and care was taken not to bridge the two connections. The last Positive lead was installed in the same manner along with the strain relief.
    Before applying power, I checked the resistance between the two conductors to make sure I did not short anything out. I also made sure there was plenty of room for the cooling fan that fits inside the same location.
    Applied power and it all looked good. Buttoned up the box. I did add an external 8awg inline 40amp fuse to the positive conductor near the battery connection (Just in case). So far, all is good up and running.
     

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