Dentron Clipperton L

Discussion in 'Amateur Radio Amplifiers' started by KN4VCT, Aug 14, 2019.

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  1. KN4VCT

    KN4VCT Ham Member QRZ Page

    So it came with a 110 plug and it currently is running one 110. There is no change in voltage between opt and standby?
    I will still check the jumpers incase. And I can solder good enough for most jobs
     
  2. KN4VCT

    KN4VCT Ham Member QRZ Page

    Oh and voltage on ssb is about 1400 in in both stand by and opt possition.
     
  3. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    It's possible the meter reading is way off; however if the meter reading is accurate, your voltages are way too low.

    Should be ~ 1800V in CW and 2700V in SSB, and it doesn't matter if the switch is in STBY or OPT.

    In OPR if you short out the relay contact on the rear panel (center pin to chassis ground), yes you should certainly hear the internal relay "click" and if you switch the meter to "Ip," you should see the meter rise from zero (unkeyed) to about 50 mA (if switched to CW) or 100 mA (if switched to SSB), just by shorting that contact to ground and without driving it with a radio.
     
  4. KN4VCT

    KN4VCT Ham Member QRZ Page

    Ok so no increase in Ip so maybe I need to check the relay? As there is no audible click from the relay when shorting out the relay contact,
    So I guess I should check capacitors, check the relay area, and I would like to somehow confirm the voltage but I don't have any high voltage equipment
     
  5. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    Do you have the manual?

    It contains a full schematic diagram and parts list and would obviously be helpful.

    One other point: Your voltage readings are about one-half what they should be. Could be a metering error, could be a power supply failure...but also could be that the amp is really wired internally for 240V and you're trying to use it on 120V, which won't work and won't let most of the amp operate.

    The voltage-setting jumper diagrams are in the manual. I'd surely check those!
     
    W1TRY likes this.
  6. KN4VCT

    KN4VCT Ham Member QRZ Page

    Wooohooo!!! Thank you everyone that chimed in! It was wired for 220 with a 110 plug?
    Fans on , plate voltage correct, relay clicks, getting current on my meter when switched to Ip.
    What a simple fix,
     
  7. KD2ACO

    KD2ACO Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber Life Member QRZ Page

    Yeah, I wonder about the outlet it was plugged into at its last home... :eek: :p
     
  8. KN4VCT

    KN4VCT Ham Member QRZ Page

    Yes ! Very Iffy lol, now I just gotta figure out how to tune it up! Getting half power out ??? Following instructions per manual.
     
  9. WB2WIK

    WB2WIK Platinum Subscriber Platinum Subscriber QRZ Page

    What are you driving it with?

    The Clipperton-L does not have a "tuned input" system (some of the very later models did) and if driving it with a 100W solid-state rig, it will not run full power. It was designed back in the day when rigs used tubes and could drive it well -- it's actually rated for "150W drive power."
     
  10. KE0ZU

    KE0ZU Ham Member QRZ Page

    A couple of things here. Mine was fairly beat up when I got it, but its been a real work horse.

    First the relay is not stock, for what it's worth. Just make sure its wired correctly.

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    As Glenn mentioned, he discoloration on the coil form can be from any number of things, but it seems to have the correct number of turns so you may be OK on the higher bands. That form is not "plastic" and won't melt.

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    I recommend you install the Mod for AC hum. It's really simple to do and eliminates all the hum associated with the amplifier. It balances the filament line.

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    The amplifier input isn't "tuned" and the CM-1 input circuit is a simple band pass type filter, which may help a bit with SS exciters.

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    I have quite a few Boat Anchors and "in the day" there weren't any rules about interfaceing receivers, exciters, amplifiers, etc., so all my boat anchor amplifiers use Carrier Operated Relays. Using COR's eliminates having to figure out how to hook up randomly selected exciters and amps up together and interface "Key" lines.

    At the antenna end, I use an old EF Johnson electronic T/R switch, eliminating the classic "antenna" relay.

    I don't necessarily recommend YOU do things this way, but it was my solution to a problem.

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    If you are interested in a little more info, you might consider going HERE.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2019
    W1TRY likes this.

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