1995 dodge ram 1500 standard cab looking for people who have installed

[KJ6OJL]

1995 dodge ram standard cab.
Looking for others who have installed a mobile set up.
I am looking to do a 2 meter install. With a mag antenna.
Someone mentioned a plug in the firewall some time
Ago can't find the thread on qrz

Would like to hear what you used for wire in points as well as
Wire out points. Also pictures of where you mounted and how
You mounted.

73
KJ6OJL
Don

[KJ6OJL]

Major whoops..
What gauge wire you all also suggest for running the wire from the battery? From what I have read everyone says avoid tapping existing power connections. Also max watt radio would be 65. More than likely
Would be rare out in middle of desert etc. Normal use expected mid power etc.

Thank you all, it's been A great crowd here.

[KC2BBT]

You should be able to fish some wires through a grommet in the firewall located just above the brake pedal, I think. As for wire sizing, I'd go with either 12 or 10 AWG straight to the battery, although if you're in a pinch I think the 2001 Ram has a 20 amp cigarette lighter style power outlet in the cab below the coin tray. 12AWG is good for 20 amps, 10AWG is good for 30.

[KB4QAA]

If you haven't done so already go study Alan's website for everything mobile http://www.k0bg.com/

[KJ6OJL]

That's the site mentioned before.
I still have a hard time pulling up old threads.
I will check that out thank you.

Also still looking for inpu from ram owners.
But will check that site out again! Thanks for the reminder!

73
KJ6OJL
Don

If you haven't done so already go study Alan's website for everything mobile http://www.k0bg.com/

[KJ6OJL]

I found that grommet today!, BIG Grommet!.
I think this is for sure where antenna and power will be ran.
will run everything through it.
I ended up with 12 gauge wire, and Have a fuse holder to put on battery side.
I have the hardware, Once I get my truck cooling issue figured out I'll be doing this
project very soon! :)

You should be able to fish some wires through a grommet in the firewall located just above the brake pedal, I think. As for wire sizing, I'd go with either 12 or 10 AWG straight to the battery, although if you're in a pinch I think the 2001 Ram has a 20 amp cigarette lighter style power outlet in the cab below the coin tray. 12AWG is good for 20 amps, 10AWG is good for 30.

[K0BG]

12 gauge wire isn't big enough. It isn't necessarily the power handling capability of the wire, Rather, it is the voltage drop under full load. That should be kept under .5 volts. Depending on the run length, that will be at least 10 gauge, and perhaps 8 if the run is long (>10 feet).

In the Wiring (http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html) article on my web site is a formula for figuring out what size to use. Or, you can go to the PowerStream (http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm) site, and use their on-line one.

[KJ6OJL]

Hurmm, even with a max of 65 watts?
Ok, I'll have to check home depot and see what deals they got.
Cost is my main factor right now. Truck is down at the moment so who knows.
maybe I can knock out the cooling issues and do the wire runs at the same time..

I checked out more the grommet by the brake pedal, and it seems the wire will have to pass over the brake, throttle controls as well
as the steering column. So I am not sure how much I like this positioning. The grommet it more than big enough, but with gooseneck seems
to need to be longer. But as the advice on your page said, Don't rush and throw it in there. I want to plan and do a proper Installation.
Possible alternator swap as well, Depends on how cleaning off the trucks computer with voltage regulator changes the voltage at charge.
Seems so much gunk now there may be a contaminant causing intermittent shorts, low voltages at charge

73
KJ6OJL
Don


12 gauge wire isn't big enough. It isn't necessarily the power handling capability of the wire, Rather, it is the voltage drop under full load. That should be kept under .5 volts. Depending on the run length, that will be at least 10 gauge, and perhaps 8 if the run is long (>10 feet).

In the Wiring (http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html) article on my web site is a formula for figuring out what size to use. Or, you can go to the PowerStream (http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm) site, and use their on-line one.

[K0BG]

Remember, even though the output is 65 watts, the input will be about double that, or about 9 amps. Assuming 10 feet of wire, that relates to a 3% drop in voltage when using #12 awg. If the engine was off, and the resting voltage was 12.2 (that's about what most flooded SLI end up at), the the drop is very close to the shutoff point of the radio.

As for the alternator, it should be rated at 105 amps peak, and about 70 continuous. That's enough for a couple of hundred watts out.

[KF7NUA]

I have an 03 Dodge Ram and not a 95 but I can tell you what I did.
I ran only the coax through the rubber grommet you mentioned.
For the power I used 10ga wires and I was able to fish them both through the fender between the fender and cowl and then inserted them both into a hole you cannot see unless the door is open, it is next to the door hinge.
Both wires then are behind the lower floor panel, fish them out and run them below the sil plate and carpet to the center door pillar and then under the front seat to a junction box I made.
Remember to use inline 30amp fuses either at the battery end or under the seat end at the junction box on the wires.
With the junction box you are now able to wire up your radio or radios.
I also had 2 additional NMO mounts installed in the roof of the cab and both coax cables came down the door pillars to under the seats and then can be run to the radios wherever they may be installed.
The coax that runs through the rubber grommet above the brake pedal goes to a Ram specific antenna mount on the drivers fender I use for hamstics.
I did find an issue I did not like using the grommet as a pass through, I think the RFI affected the cruise control until I installed a coax air wrap and 2 snap ferrites before the fire wall, I have been thinking I might want to remove this coax from the grommet and run it into the same path as the power cables but I am worried that this would not be advisable and end up with other problems.
I hope this helps.....

[K6LCS]

Why a mag mount antenna? It is guaranteed to scratch your paint job. I cannot remember: Are there rain gutters above the windows on that model? If so, there's a gutter clip mount system available. Do you have a bed cover? If not, the rail can be used for a mounting system.

All these other suggestions hide/protect the antenna wiring - making a longer-lasting installation for you.

Clint, K6LCS

[KJ6OJL]

As of now the top seems is completely peeling clear coat wise, It looks like hell honestly.
There is a groove but not really a gutter as a lot of other cars have. No bed cover yet. Just open bed
with tie down loops in the rail holes.
and yes, I want to make the installation last, not looking for a short term at all.
the one pointed out issues with RF interfering with cruise control makes one a tad nervous.
But I just am not ready to drill into it yet. I am trying to sort out positioning of the radio for
a perm installation and to figure where I will put everything when complete.
someone mentioned a mirror mount as well.
Cash would be another restriction for now, no money for a fold over mount and a comet sub is short
enough to keep me clearing parking garage roofs for now.
73
KJ6OJL
Don


Why a mag mount antenna? It is guaranteed to scratch your paint job. I cannot remember: Are there rain gutters above the windows on that model? If so, there's a gutter clip mount system available. Do you have a bed cover? If not, the rail can be used for a mounting system.

All these other suggestions hide/protect the antenna wiring - making a longer-lasting installation for you.

Clint, K6LCS

[KJ6OJL]

Yea, I used the door grommet for the Sirius antenna, which was a very small connector. slipped through easily.
I don't know how well that one would work for coax though, seems It would be a very tight bend on that part.
RFI into cruise control doesn't sound like something I would want to discover down the road.
Hurmm. Now have me wondering about that one. It does pass right by the steering column and makes sense
that it would possibly cause the interference.
Hoping with new alternator Power will not only be more stable but move available, Upgrading from 90 amp to a
120 with my DIY work on engine.
73
KJ6OJL
Don


I have an 03 Dodge Ram and not a 95 but I can tell you what I did.
I ran only the coax through the rubber grommet you mentioned.
For the power I used 10ga wires and I was able to fish them both through the fender between the fender and cowl and then inserted them both into a hole you cannot see unless the door is open, it is next to the door hinge.
Both wires then are behind the lower floor panel, fish them out and run them below the sil plate and carpet to the center door pillar and then under the front seat to a junction box I made.
Remember to use inline 30amp fuses either at the battery end or under the seat end at the junction box on the wires.
With the junction box you are now able to wire up your radio or radios.
I also had 2 additional NMO mounts installed in the roof of the cab and both coax cables came down the door pillars to under the seats and then can be run to the radios wherever they may be installed.
The coax that runs through the rubber grommet above the brake pedal goes to a Ram specific antenna mount on the drivers fender I use for hamstics.
I did find an issue I did not like using the grommet as a pass through, I think the RFI affected the cruise control until I installed a coax air wrap and 2 snap ferrites before the fire wall, I have been thinking I might want to remove this coax from the grommet and run it into the same path as the power cables but I am worried that this would not be advisable and end up with other problems.
I hope this helps.....