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WA6MHZ
06-20-2009, 10:56 PM
Today I hit a milestone. The High Voltage section of the Power Supply has been built and tested.

Previously, one hangup was the timing circuitry. I knocked that out last weekend, spending around 24 hours on getting it to work. Once working, I could proceed.

The timing circuit consisted of 4 sections and 3 timers.
Upon energizing the unit (Pressing START), a relay keys supplying power to the various transformers and circuitry required. But the High Voltage is not enabled until 2 minutes pass, which is the first timer. This is Filament warmup time.

Once that has passed, the High Voltage transformer is enabled, but it needs a slow start circuit. That is the 2nd timer. After 5 seconds, another relay shorts out 2 power resistors in series with the HV Xfmrs primary leads.

The next circuit controls the fan. It is turned on when the Main Power relay is keyed, but at Amp Shutdown, it runs for 2 minutes more. This is the 3rd timer.

That works great now.

But the High Voltage is not measurable, as it is somewhere around 2000-2500 volts.

I estimated it is closer to 2000, as I was able to measure the center of the diode voltage doubler with my Heathkit IM-11 VTVM. It read 1000 volts, so that means the HV must be about 2000. Can't chance measuring anything in the circuit with my Companies DVM. I break it, I BOUGHT IT!

The VTVM is not a company instrument. In fact, they complain when I have it out. They say it looks "OLD". Well , it is INDEED OLD! Probably made back in the mid 1960s.

I rigged up some meters on the front panel to give me an indication the voltage was there. I took a 1.5 mA panel meter, and put a couple 2 Megohm resistors in parallel to drop the HV to a measurable value. So 1mA means there is 2000 volts there.

Next step is to wire up the Screen supply. I am tapping off the Voltage Doubler to give me about 500VDC which will be regulated down to +350 with some Voltage Regulator tubes. Not sure how to figure out the Dropping resistor, but I will put a couple of 2K 10W resistors in series and see if that works. Somewhere there must be a formula to determine what the dropping resistor value should be. If it burns up, then the resistors were too small.

This Power supply chassis is HEAVY now!!!! And takes up most of the workbench.

Still have to start on the Actual RF portion of the linear. Hopefully that will be easier than the Power Supply.

73

K9FV
06-23-2009, 06:23 PM
Congrats on your amp project - it does sound like you are well on your way. Do you now have most of the parts for the RF deck? What tube are you using? Watts you are looking for?

I'd sure like to build one - I've got most of the parts for the HV supply, xformer, diodes, capacitors, etc - just too many projects to play with. Right now I'm playing with SDR stuff - the softrock collection.

73 de Ken H> K9FV

ZL3GSL
06-24-2009, 03:56 AM
Be careful with the voltage you put across resistors. Your 2M meter resistors are not likely to be rated for 2kV. A more likely rating would be 500 volts. :( I'd be conservative and not put more than 2-300 volts across each resistor. How about making up a series string of 10 resistors? A good way is to build it on a tagstrip connected across the last reservoir capacitor in the PSU, preferably with a lower value resistor whish shunts the meter to ensure there is only very low voltage on the leads to the meter.

WB2WIK
06-25-2009, 04:29 PM
Next step is to wire up the Screen supply. I am tapping off the Voltage Doubler to give me about 500VDC which will be regulated down to +350 with some Voltage Regulator tubes. Not sure how to figure out the Dropping resistor, but I will put a couple of 2K 10W resistors in series and see if that works. Somewhere there must be a formula to determine what the dropping resistor value should be.


::The formula is easy. Gas VR tubes operate at ~30mA. If you're dropping 500v down to 350v (regulated voltage), R = 150/.03 = 5K Ohms. P = 150*.03 = 4.5W. A 5K, 10W resistor should work just fine.

AF6LJ
06-25-2009, 04:53 PM
::The formula is easy. Gas VR tubes operate at ~30mA. If you're dropping 500v down to 350v (regulated voltage), R = 150/.03 = 5K Ohms. P = 150*.03 = 4.5W. A 5K, 10W resistor should work just fine.
Yup; beat me to the formula just like Ziner diodes.
Simple is often best..:)

GSL is right about the voltage rating of resistors, I have seen the unhappy result of what happens when you try to drop a KV across a resistor rated for only 400V.

I like the idea of leaving the blower running post-shutdown.

WA6MHZ
06-26-2009, 01:24 AM
I guess I better revise my Meter dropping string. I started out with several 2Meg resistors, but wound up dropping the value to about 1 Meg since the meter was a 1.5mA movement. The resistors used were 1/2 W standard carbons, so there is a change needed. Maybe a bunch of 100K's in series now. The meter is kinda flaky, but I plan to have a more serious meter actually on the RF Deck.

Now I am kind of stuck on the cabinet. I had a big cabinet the size of a KWM-2 to put it all in, but now that is too big and empty. So I am looking at smaller cabinets now. I am running a pair of 4CX250Rs on 6 meters. The next problem I have with the cabinet is that it is steel, and I like aluminum. Much easier to process, especially making big holes for the blower.

I will look for another cabinet now, something about the size of a HG-10 VFO.
The 4CX250Rs don't take up much space. Also, I am still kicking around the idea of a dual band unit. Since I have 3 sockets and 5 tubes, I might make 2 separate amps in one chassis.

But atleast the Power supply is up and running fine.
Thanks and 73
Pat

WA7KKP
07-01-2009, 08:05 PM
Bill Orr was an excellent source of ideas for QRO tube amplifiers . . . from soup to nuts to finished amplifier.

Since you're looking for a good meter to measure the HV, you'll have to get an older Simpson series 5 or 6, or Triplett 630. These were pre - OSHA, and have the multiplier resistors to measure up to 5 KV. Just keep the meter clear of yourself, and take all the precautions and think at least three or four times before energizing the HV.

Using the VR tubes might not be too good for screen voltage . . . under some loading conditions you can get negative screen current, which they don't handle. Most designs use a separate screen supply, heavily bled, to overcome this.

Keep reading and designing, and you'll have something to be proud of.

Gary WA7KKP

W9GB
07-02-2009, 08:15 PM
Why not use an LMB Heeger enclosure like the CO series case?
http://www.lmbheeger.com/product_categories.asp
("CO" did stand for Collins style), like the Collins accessory cabinets (like the CO-3 or CO-4).
http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=16

If not from LMB (CA based) you could contact Advanced Optics Limited (UK) which make the Collins reproductions.
http://www.advanced-optics.com/collins.htm

Since you are using the 4CX250R tube, do not forget that the GM3SEK Tetrode Board makes life much easier for monitoring and control of these tubes!!
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/boards/tetrode/tetrode-1.htm

w9gb

WA6MHZ
07-09-2009, 03:10 PM
I really like that last project, the Tetrode board. Even though I have the PS all built and tested, Maybe I can incorporate this into it and Homebrew it up.
Thanks!

W9GB
07-13-2009, 11:02 PM
Pat -

I am sorry I did not mention it earlier -- G3SEK did a nice job with this Tetrode board (as well as the sister Triode board).
It is really a "one stop" solution for the:

• Screen supply
• Grid bias
• Tube protection
• TX/RX sequencing
• ALC output

While there are a few triode boards made by different amateurs (G3SEK, WD7S),
http://home.earthlink.net/~wd7s/contents.htm
this is the only one, that I am aware of, for the Tetrodes!

IF you ever think about home building an Alpha equivalent,
WD7S shows you the craftsmanship to build at that level - 2 tube 8877 auto tune!
http://home.earthlink.net/~wd7s/gallery-6.htm

SO, take nice photos of your build!

w9gb

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