Good Quality Soldering Iron

[K3ACE]

Looking for some suggestions for a good quality variable temperature soldering iron/station.

[W4CBJ]

In answer to your question...let me state that I never owned a 'variable temperature' soldering iron. Any iron can be made variable by using a variac or a 'motor speed controlled' type of device. You can easily build one out of a few simple parts. Of course you can put a silicon diode in series with one leg of the AC cord so as to effect a 'temperature ' reduction. The selection of a soldering iron has to do with...what you want to do with it. The irons range from the dollar store variety to .....The best small iron the I own is a EGC No. E69348. (40) watt.) Can be purchased from an NTE dealer. (NTE Electronics, 44 Farrand Street, Bloomfield, NJ 07003. www. nteinc.com).
Seems like I paid nine (9) or ten (10) bucks for it. It is far superior than any other one I have used. For best work, used the correct size and temperature range for the project. 60/40 is a must (NOT 40/60). There are others too. Rat Shack is a good source. Don't fall for the "This is all I have" syndrome. Get what you need. For heavier work, the Weller brand is very good. Home Depot...etc... Hope this helps.. 73 Joe W4CBJ

[K4AX]

I use this one.. https://store.sra-solder.com/product.php?xProd=6144
It is a Hakko Clone, easy to fine tips and such for. Works great and heats up very quickly. They have other models as well you may want to consider if you think you may ever get into any SMD stuff. I wish I had just gotten a SMD rework station/desolder/iron combo or something instead.

[W9GB]

Norm -

IF you desire a Weller, then the model with a 40 + year history is the Weller TCP series (WTCPT current model).
The temperature 600, 700 or 800 degree F is determiend by the selection of the soldering tip (as well as the tip profile and size). The PTA-7 is the standard tip (1/16 inch screwdriver profile, 700 degree) shipped with current stations.

IF you want the adjustable temperature knob or a digital readout -- then the WES51 and WESD51 are current models.
A Weller EC1002 late model (model 3 control board) -- analog knob is a good buy. Both of these models use the "ET" series tips.

I repair and refurbish many Weller models (as well as some Pace and others) and provide these to kit builders and DIY repair amatuer radio operators.
BTW, I don't make money at this -- just try to provide a high quality workbench tool at an afforable price to the hobbyist or DIY newcomer.

Read reviews from actual owners -- here:
http://www.eham.net/reviews/products/41

Here is a good buy: eBay Item number: 400009320482
Typical of the ones that I refurbish

Go to Mouser, order the parts missing: Weller parts BA-60 and a PTA-7 (~ $12 in parts).
In case the heater element is dead, that part is EC-234 (~ $20)
.. some elbow grease for clean up and you have a solid station !

w9gb

[KB3PXR]

I recommend temp control especially for Surface mount. My recommendation on the solder alloy is a little different, I recommend 63/37 as it solidifies and melts at a point not a range in temperature. However if you do have 60/40 go ahead and use it, just make sure extra sure nothing moves after the iron is removed. My iron is from a computer tool kit and is branded Compaq or all things, but for larger stuff such as splices in wires I use a Weller 8200 soldering gun.

[AA5KT]

The Hakko 936 is nice, I have one here and like it, here are the reviews for it on eham http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/2871

[W1BAN]

For heavy work I like Weller guns. I also have some Weller pen that are nice. I have two stations, A Metcal and a Hakko. Both are very good and easy to hold for long periods of time. One thing to check out is the cost of replacement tips. the last time I bought Hakko tips they where close to 20.00 each because the heating element is part of the tip. I think Weller tips are about half the price.

[K3ACE]

Thanks for the tips. (pun intended) I will certainly look at what has been recommended.

[KB8YVC]

I bought this iron a few months back. Really happy with it thus far. Ordered one each of the replacement tips. I got it for half of the web site price. Just look for the link to their flyers/catalogs on their homepage. They've been half price in the last 3 or 4 flyers.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-21-7935-/21-7935

Also bought the DC power strip too. (look familiar:))

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-72-6627-/72-6627

It was $30 in a flyer. And it didn't have any cold solder joints!:D

[W9GB]

let me state that I never owned a 'variable temperature' soldering iron. Any iron can be made variable by using a variac or a 'motor speed controlled' type of device. You can easily build one out of a few simple parts. Of course you can put a silicon diode in series with one leg of the AC cord so as to effect a 'temperature ' reduction.
Joe -

I have faced this mis interpretation so many times -- people believe it is fact.

1. Using a Variac just changes the voltage (AC) to the heating element.
2. Using a silicon diode produces "choppy DC" tot he heating element.

NEITHER of these approaches are TEMEPRATURE CONTROL -- which requries a feedback mechanism.

Here is the best REAL world example --
Your furnace uses a thermostat for temperature control to turn you furnace on and off at a "set temperature". This is critical for reliable production quality (repeatable) soldering joints.

That is what the Weller WES51; EC series; Hakko 936-12 soldering station do. They have thermocouples at the soldering tip and heating element may be ceramic or nicrohome wire.
The Weller TCP (and W60/W100) series (produced since early 1960s) uses a patented tip/magnetic switch to do the same thing (without the modern electronics). The Weller TCP series was used by both Collins and Grumman for the Apollo program (and military production) for that very reason.

Now, the Weller WLC100 (Orange colored station) is an OEM light dimmer in the AC line. This is NOT temperature controlled -- and usable for the inexperienced hobbyist soldering wire and connectors.

w9gb

[KL7AJ]

Looking for some suggestions for a good quality variable temperature soldering iron/station.

Well....er........hmm, what's that name again...it was on the tip of my tongue.....

[AI3V]

Joe -

I have faced this mis interpretation so many times -- people believe it is fact.

1. Using a Variac just changes the voltage (AC) to the heating element.
2. Using a silicon diode produces "choppy DC" tot he heating element.

NEITHER of these approaches are TEMEPRATURE CONTROL -- which requries a feedback mechanism.

Here is the best REAL world example --
Your furnace uses a thermostat for temperature control to turn you furnace on and off at a "set temperature". This is critical for reliable production quality (repeatable) soldering joints.

That is what the Weller WES51; EC series; Hakko 936-12 soldering station do. They have thermocouples at the soldering tip and heating element may be ceramic or nicrohome wire.
The Weller TCP (and W60/W100) series (produced since early 1960s) uses a patented tip/magnetic switch to do the same thing (without the modern electronics). The Weller TCP series was used by both Collins and Grumman for the Apollo program (and military production) for that very reason.

Now, the Weller WLC100 (Orange colored station) is an OEM light dimmer in the AC line. This is NOT temperature controlled -- and usable for the inexperienced hobbyist soldering wire and connectors.

w9gb

Exactly, If you are soldering, as soon as the iron touches the work, the work gets hotter, and the iron gets colder. so as you go from joint to joint, the "Feel" or "action" of the iron changes.

The temperature controlled irons stay at the same heat, joint after joint.

IMHO, you want a hot iron, and be quick on the joint, too cold, and your going to lift a pcb trace, every time . I've lifted lots of traces, but never damaged a transistor or IC with too much heat.

Rege

Edit: consider this, modern electronic pcb's are usually soldered in a "wave" machine, where a wave of molten solder is applied to the entire pcb,(actually the pcb moves on a conveyor thru the liquid metal), or in a reflow-oven, again, the whole pcb comes up to the temp of molten solder- and the components survive, just fine.

[K8ERV]

I use tips that are made of iron, not copper. Iron tips do not corrode, I've used the same tip for decades and it looks like new. There may be some iron-plated copper tips, dunno. Check with a magnet.

I also like chisel tips since they have more heat transfer area than a conical tip.

Never had a temp controlled iron. Musta mist something.

TOM K8ERV Montrose Colo

[M0DSZ]

Do you get Antex irons in the US? I use all Antex soldering equipment at home, The Weller irons offered to us are all made in China and seem to be OK but I'm unsure of their durability.

[PA5COR]

Antex here, about 6 of them, Weller temperature controled station, AIF (Dutch) made 100 watt soldering iron for making cabinets out of PCB, desoldering station.
And about 10 pounds of 60/40 in stock, no lead free for me.
:D

[M0DSZ]

Hear hear! Lead free is a nuisance, it seems to be sold for plumbing now as well but there's plenty of 60/40 solder around still.

Anyway my 100W Antex will solder 15mm pipe and I'm pleased Weller still makes equipment elsewhere other than the Far East.

[PA5COR]

I'm 56, decided it was enough, and could get some 5 spools of 1 kilo Billiton rosin core solder for a good price, wich will last me long enough ;)
Went from the age of 12 from tubes to transistors, IC's to SMD from chassis build to PCB etc.

The Antex soldering irons last ages, 15/25 watt do most the job, the temperature controlled station does fine in SMD, so i'm reasonably set for life.

Have a large stock of copper clad PCB in large sizes, bought at ham radio fairs, ranging in thickness from 0.4, 0.8 1 mm and lots of 3 mm thickness, the last batch is used to make cabinets from for projects.
That way i can make thee cabinet the way and form i want.
A can of spray paint and it can have any color ;)

[WB3BEL]

For doing work on printed circuit boards, I find that variable temp is worthless junk!

If you have ever used a professional soldering workstation you will know what I mean here.

What you want is constant temperature at the tip no matter how much the work conducts heat away from the tip.

I prefer METCAL. You can choose a variety of tips to suit the size of the solder joint to be made or heatsink of the work. They unplug and plug in in seconds. It heats to soldering temperature in seconds. Sure a new one costs about 500 bucks or so but you can find surplus and if you ever use one you will be forever spoiled. You will never be able to use something like a weller without calling it bad names.

If you are working on antennas outside then you are talking about something else entirely. Use a big honking iron. I have a 150W antique iron that I like or use a small torch. If its freezing and windy some teeny weeny soldering wand is not going to make clean joints.

73, Harry
WB3BEL

[KC8JRV]

I hesitate to mention what I have used over the years, but I'm looking at this very issue this month, so here's a few more ideas for you.

Back in the early 1960s, my father's electrical motor company hosted a Xmas party for all employees and family members, asking for the age and gender of the kids coming across Santa's lap.

By the time I got up there, the helpers had mis-assigned the toys enough that there was nothing left appropriate for my age. Santa's helpers wound up handing me a wood burning kit, complete with pre-printed wood plaques to "burn", and an Ungar brand wood burning "Pencil". I never did much with this kit, but recall that the unit simply plugged in and had two or three threaded copper tips, one fat, one narrow and maybe one with a round shaft.

Flash forward about 3 or 4 years, and my father had bought me a Heathkit breadboard circuit assembly kit that didn't require ANY soldering..but did rely on mechanical springs to connect hookup wires. After assembling it, but not really understanding much about what it did, I got a REAL Heathkit Record player stereo.

My father showed me how to assemble basic components after Xmas one year, but what we used was not the Wheeler Soldering GUN, but the woodburning pencil. We would plug it in and out to heat or stop heating it as we did maybe a dozen resisters in a row, and then trim the leads and start inserting the next round of a dozen components. I learned how to solder and what a good solder joint was, a cold joint, and to protect the transistors with a heat sink from the soldering pencil.

Over the years, I cleaned the tip repeatedly with steel wool and some more solder from Heathkit, but noticed eventually, after years, that the copper tip had worn down to a stub, and couldn't reach the printed circuit board easily. I switched to another, fatter copper tip for the last few projects that I did...

But my father also showed me how to create a solder pencil stand and cleaner but cutting a 3 pound coffee can in half, and then using either a can opener punch or a chisel, to cut "flaps" around the edge. We placed a wad of coarse steel wool in the bottom of the can, and folded those five or six "flaps" of tin down to hold it in place. I was able to rest the pencil through the hole from the flap, on top of the steel wool, and the can wouldn't tip over. Every solder, I'd pick up the pencil, remove it from the can, the wipe the tip on the steel wool to freshen the tip...and go to work with it. I would always replace it across this can stand when done.

About twenty years later, my wife borrowed this same can/stand for use with her stained glass work, but I kept my pencil soldering/wood burning tool separate. She found the soldering iron got too hot, so she borrowed one of my later Heathkit projects (a lamp dimmer unit) and plugged the iron into that.
WORKED LIKE A CHARM! All we had to do was add a white liquid paper stripe onto the brown dimmer knob so we had a reference to see how far we were turning it up or down, til we hit an optimum temperature.

Now, as I'm about to teach my kids to solder, we walked through the hamfest, and bought an off brand soldering pencil for the daughter from one parking lot vendor, and an actual spring loaded solder stand from another.

These days, those are the only two pieces that I can find as I contemplate assembling another dimmer control kit from Heathkit to teach my son to solder and assemble. (It only cost me $40 to secure the old kit!)

[AC0FP]

Do you get Antex irons in the US? I use all Antex soldering equipment at home, The Weller irons offered to us are all made in China and seem to be OK but I'm unsure of their durability.

I have a small Antex at home for PCB/SMT work! I also have some Wellers. If you ever get a chance try a Metcal soldering station, its controlled tip temperature is unlike anything else and will spoil you. Caution, the tip prices can cause cardiac arrest. I think OKI may have bought the company.

73,

Frank:)

[KE5IQL]

Looking for some suggestions for a good quality variable temperature soldering iron/station.
:)
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=solder&Submit=Go If it doesn't do the job get a better one at the I've got money to burn.coms. 73 KE5IQL

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf#NJ This is Your nearest location, I think.

[W9GB]

Metcal/OKI is good. Did you know that many OKI models note 2 earlier US patents?
One is for inductive (RF) heating (early 1900s patent) and the other
Carl Weller's 1957 patent for his magnetic switch (SW-60) [Curie effect] that was developed for the TCP 24VAC stations and W60/W100 line voltage irons? :)

I have placed more Weller Tech Sheets and DIY Notes on BAMA.
http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/weller/

You can easily get a used Weller TCP station for less than $25.
Even broken TCP stations are relatively easy to fix with a bit of reading and replacement parts.

w9gb