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K0IPG
07-27-2002, 10:52 PM
Hello all,
I just purchased a Drake ML-2 from a friend of mine to use just for .52 when I'm mobile. Everything works fine, but I can't figure out how to convert it to use 13.8volts. Currently, it's wired for 120 through the internal power supply. There's a sticker on the back that says "13.5 or 120v" with an arrow pointing to the power connector. That's all fine and dandy, but which of these 12 different prongs do I use? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. - I appologize for any lack of knowledge I've demonstrated regarding vintage gear, here. I'm only 16, so anything that has a tube in it is "ancient" to me!

73,
Dan - K0IPG

W9GB
07-27-2002, 11:24 PM
Dan -

If you do not have the DC power cable that originally came with this radio, you will need to find the proper power connector (I believe that you said 12 pins) to build your own DC power cable. #

For this "1971 era" I am guessing it is a 12-pin "Jones" plug (and not a Molex or AMP nylon power connector). #Digital photo ?

Drake "Marker-Luxury" 2
http://www.dproducts.be/drake_museum/ML2.htm

The ML-2 manual was not on BAMA.
http://bama.sbc.edu/drake.htm

BUT is available for $ 15.00 from Drake
http://www.rldrake.com/tech/producthelp.html

Sindre Torp, LA6OP (Norway), has this Drake in his collection, his e-mail address is: sindtorp@online.no

w9gb

K0IPG
07-27-2002, 11:45 PM
Hello again,
# #The power connector has 12 pins. Currently, the 120v cord connects to two of them, there are two jumpers that go across 4 more, and a resistor. I don't need the 120v cord any longer, so can I just use the connector, but re-wire it? I'm attaching some digital pictures of the plug :

http://www.frontiernet.net/~danf/male.jpg
http://www.frontiernet.net/~danf/female.jpg

Oops - I labeled the male one female and the female one male. Sorry about that.

W9GB
07-28-2002, 12:15 AM
... Bingo ! .. good guess. #The power connector is a Cinch "Jones" connector (12-pin).
The connector is most likely the 300 series, but it may also be the 2400 series - check the dimensions on the Cinch web site - for positive identification.

300 series
http://www.cinch.com/product....le.html (http://www.cinch.com/products/jones_plugs/series_300/hood_180_cable.html)

2400 series
http://www.cinch.com/product....mp.html (http://www.cinch.com/products/jones_plugs/series_2400/hood_180_clamp.html)

While Mouser lists the 312 (12-pin version of 300 series) for chassis connectors, it does not for the in-line plugs and jacks (Call Mouser or check with a Cinch distributor for availability).
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_610/248.pdf

Now, how to wire the 13.6 VDC ? #
This radio has both an internal power supply AND a DC-to-DC converter. #
Since you indicated that the AC power plug was internally jumpered AND you had a resistor jumper, I would not proceed without an ML-2 schematic or proper documentation for the the DC cable & jumpering within the plug.

If possible, I would keep the AC power cable for testing on the bench -- unless you always wish to run this radio from a 13.6 VDC power source.

73 de w9gb

K0IPG
07-28-2002, 12:36 AM
Actually, the jumpers and resistor are across the connectors inside the plug. Here is a picture of the inside of the plug connector:
http://www.frontiernet.net/~danf/plug.jpg
Sorry for the poor quality - it's hard to take good pictures of things that small. You might be able to see the power cord connects to the two pins in the upper right hand corner (pins 1+2, I believe). There are jumpers across the pins in the lower right hand corner, and the row directly above that. Finally, the resistor connects across the left side.
Any suggestions?

W5ATX
07-28-2002, 02:28 AM
Agreed - do NOT try wiring that without a schematic. One goof and it'll be poof!

I will ask my brother if he still has my old ML2 anywhere. I was a teenager when I had it in my Ford Pinto. 10w on 52 simplex. Woo Hoo! If he still has it in the garage - where most of my ham rejects end up and he cannabalises them - hopefully the power cord is there too. If so, I'll let you know. Email me a reminder. Look my call up on qrz.

Otherwise, good luck. That rig had everything - from an IC in the transmitter audio amp to transistors throughout, to the tube in the final. But it worked - fairly well. I don't know how well you'll like the rather wide receiver though, unless 2m is quiet where you are.

73,

Chris

K0IPG
07-28-2002, 06:49 PM
Thanks for all your replys, so far, but I still haven't figured out how to wire it for DC. Would this information be in the manual if I purchased one?
Thanks,
Dan

W5ATX
07-28-2002, 07:41 PM
That info should be in the manual. In 1971, hams were still considered to be "technically oriented" and schematics, mods, etc, were included in manuals. Unlike some rigs today for which schematics have never been published (hello, radio shaft?)

Good luck,

Chris

W9GB
07-28-2002, 09:55 PM
IF you do call Drake for the manual, ask for technical support and explain your situation - and verify that the schematic is in the manual - the 1971 QST is vague and indicates that it was not supplied (Howard Sams would be an alternative). #

Drake has traditionally provided any information they still have on file to the amateur operator to assist. #I also have a few web links of Drake repair centers (former Drake employees) who may also be of assistance.

T&T Drake Repair
Larry Taft, #K2LT and Henry Turner, KC5FLJ
http://www.drakerepair.com/

Don't forget to inquire with Sindre Torp, LA6OP (Norway), he has this Drake in his collection, and could likely quickly answer your question.
His e-mail address is: sindtorp@online.no

73 de w9gb
Greg

K0IPG
07-28-2002, 10:37 PM
I've emailed the ham in Norway, so I'll see if I get a responce from him. If I don't, I'll probably just sell the rig - no sense in spending $15 on a manual for a rig that's only worth abour $30.
Thanks for your help,
Dan

K0IPG
07-28-2002, 10:38 PM
I've emailed the ham in Norway, so I'll see if I get a responce from him. If I don't, I'll probably just sell the rig - no sense in spending $15 on a manual for a rig that's only worth abour $30.
Thanks for your help,
Dan

K0IPG
07-29-2002, 12:06 AM
Got it! A gentleman over at eHam.net just provided me with the pinout. Here it is in case anyone else has the same question:
Short pins 3 and 6.
# # # # # # # # # #Short pins 4 and 5.
# # # # # # # # # #Short pins 8 and 9.
# # # # # # # # # #Run positive lead through 6 Amp in-line fuse to pin 11.
# # # # # # # # # #Run negative lead to pin 12.
# # # # # # # # # #D.C. volts is 12-15V in.

Thanks very much to Charlie, WA3KVN for the information!
73,
Dan

K9STH
07-29-2002, 03:28 AM
The Drake "Marker-Luxury" ML-2 was a fairly good first generation "ham band 2 meter" rig. The main "draw back" was the fact that it used a 6360 tube in the final amplifier instead of being fully solid-state. Actually, the use of a tube is not really a "draw back", but you did have to wait a minute, or so, from the time the rig was turned on until you could transmit.

I did a review of one of the first ML-2 rigs imported back in, if I remember correctly, a 1971 issue of CQ (when I was the FM Editor of that magazine). Again, trying to remember (they say the mind is the second thing to go and I can't remember the first!), I think I gave it a pretty good "write up".

Anyway, it is not a "bad" rig for working a few "spot" frequencies on 2 meters.

Glen, K9STH

W9GB
07-30-2002, 02:42 AM
Dan -

If you are going to use the same Jones plug, document the pin configuration for 110 VAC and save the parts (you never know when you may need it)

As you can see from the directions, more than one set of pins needed to be "jumpered" within the plug for 12 VDC operation.

Greg
w9gb

The manual may eventually show up on BAMA, if someone would scan it.
----------------------------
Charlie, WA3KVN, has the manual.

Here's the 12 pin Jones plug pin-out (from the manual):

Short pins 3 and 6.
Short pins 4 and 5.
Short pins 8 and 9.
Run positive lead through 6 Amp in-line fuse to pin 11.
Run negative lead to pin 12.
D.C. volts is 12-15V in.

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