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WA2LTD
12-12-2006, 10:12 PM
Linear Amplifier Inrush Current Control and Soft Starts
Thomas G. Siglin – WA2LTD

Part One

Ka-Thunk… The noise my linear amplifier makes when I turn it on. It makes that sound because a large amount of current is momentarily drawn when the tube filaments are cold, electrolytic capacitors are in a discharged state and the power transformer is at a resting state of flux(1).

To understand inrush current in linear amplifiers, let’s look back at circuit design philosophies and available components in earlier times. #We would find many tube, transformer and capacitor manufactures. These parts were readily available and prices were reasonable. The circuits themselves used vacuum tube or mercury vapor rectifiers with choke filter inputs and lower value capacitance. These construction methods tended to keep inrush currents in the manageable range.

Today, with present design trends favoring capacitor input power supplies and solid state rectifiers, inrush currents are substantial, sometimes approaching peaks of ten times the normal operating current. #With Eimac® tubes and Peter Dahl® transformers selling at a premium, it would be well to practice operating methods that ensure long useful lives from these components.

A check of most ARRL Handbooks® on linear amplifier design will include a series resistance in the primary of the power supply, i.e. 20 Ohms, which will be bypassed through relay contacts. This additional resistance limits the maximum inrush current to about 6 Amps. #Building this circuit onto a chassis during initial amplifier construction is a simple task. Adding one to a commercial amplifier is more trouble but within the grasp of many hams. What poses a problem is voiding approval agencies, i.e. underwriters’ Lab ® certifications or warranty terms from the manufacture. To avoid these problems, I chose to build my inrush current limiter in a 4x4 inch electrical box with an outlet and switch that I can simply plug my amplifier into.

To construct a simple 120 Volt inrush current limiter, use a heavy AC cord/plug and install it though a Romex® clamp on a 4X4 electrical box.. The white neutral wire of the cord is connected to the white screw of the 120 VAC -15 Amp duplex outlet. The Black hot wire will attach to a screw on the AC switch. At the other screw of the switch attach a jumper to the brass screw on the duplex outlet. Now install a 20 Ohm 20 Watt resistor between the two switch screw terminals. Connect the green ground from the cord to a green screw on the outlet, switch or with a ground screw to the box. As you attach the cover with the switch and outlet to the box, dress the wires away from the resistor. Test your work for safety before using it.

To use this limiter, plug your amplifier into the outlet on the new box. Set the switch of limiter to OFF. Plug the limiter’s cord into a wall outlet. Turn on the amplifier. After a few seconds, flip the switch on the limiter box ON. (Note: if you do not turn ON the box’s switch and use the amplifier to tune or transmit, you will burn out the limiter’s resistor!) You now have an inrush current limiter. When you turn off the amplifier, also turn off the limiter’s switch for the next cycle. If you need a schematic or pictorials, please send an eMail to: tsiglin@SIGTOMICS.com

Part two will improve on the above inrush current limiter. Soft starting will be introduced later.

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(1) http://www.allaboutcircuits.com

W4CBJ
12-14-2006, 01:39 AM
Very good article and thank you for those that need to know... Joe W4CBJ

M3GID
12-14-2006, 08:11 AM
Very good article, equally very interesting, thank you for those that didn't already know...whether they needed to or not! #http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

PS: I'm one who didn't know, but will probably never have a linear in my shack so....will probably never need to know, but it is good to know.....if you "know" what I mean! #http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif

73 es Mry Xmas T U

de Geoff (now M0GID)

na4it
12-14-2006, 01:01 PM
I recently installed a softstart in an AL-80A for a friend. We used the Harbach circuit that places resistors in both AC lines and uses relays to auto switch to full voltage.

Problem was with the AL-80A is that only one leg of the AC lines are switched by the power relay in the amp. The Harbach circuit relies on an transformer that shows no power anywhere on it before start to work. The AL-80A showed 120V on all 4 points on the Harbach board and hence would not function. This particular AL-80A is running in 240V mode.

So to fix it right, we changed the relay to a DPST relay and wired it like the Heathkit SB-1200 (which is an AL-80A knock off). (I am going to attempt to attach the updated schematic to this post.)

Now the amp works great and no more WHAW when it starts! http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

de NA4IT

http://www.qsl.net/na4it/al80a.gif

w4lgh
12-14-2006, 08:57 PM
The inrush current limiter basically saves your on/off switch. It will reduce the current on the filters/diodes and tube filaments, but probably not really saving anything there. However it never hurts to add all the protection you can.

To improve upon the original posters design, you can make his limiter box fully automatic! All you need to find is a relay with a 120vac input coil, you add a thermistor (100-120ohms) in series with the relay coil. Use the manual switch he talkes about as a power switch. Use a 10ohm/10watt resistor in series on one side the power line. Use the normally OPEN contacts on the relay to to go across the 10ohm resistor.

Now when you turn the power switch on ,on the box, the thermistor will heat/dropping in resistance and pulling the contacts of the relay in, shorting out the 10ohm resistor and going to full current!! This is for 120VAC, for 220VAC, you just double everything. The thermistor used needs to be somewhere around 100/120ohms, this will control the time the resistor is in line. If you go to high a value on the thermistor, the circuit will take to long to switch, and burn your 10ohm resistor out.

This is a complete circuit for out of the box install, and can be used on ANY Radio or Amp. Great for old TUBE Vintage radios too.... Of course this circuit can be installed inside the amp.

73 de W4LGH - Alan
http://www.w4lgh.com