Antenna on Truck

[kb0ctr]

Greetings Folks,

Recently got me a Kenwood Dual Band TM-G707A Rig for my Truck, but I do not know the best antenna to use.

My truck: Chevy Silverado (Full size)

My Issues: I often have to park in parking garages so putting something on top of the roof is really not going to work too well as there is not a whole lot of clearance.

I do not want to use a mag mount as I know i'll forget to take it off plus I don't like the idea of having to run coax in through a window, just does not look good.

Does anyone have any ides on what type of antenna/mount would work?

Thanks

[WD4CHP]

I have a Chevy S10 extended cab PU. I finally got a glass mount duel band antenna and mounted it at the top and center of the rear window.

It does a passible job. Better than a dummy load but ok for the local repeaters.

On my older PU's and vans, I used a mirror mounted Hustler CG 144 using a Hustler QD2 for long range and an old Hustler Buck Buster 5/8 for around town.

With the new stylized mirrors on the PU's now, there isn't any way to utilize them.

I ran the coax between the door and door frame. there was enough clearance not to crush the coax.

Good Luck

Willis
WD4CHP

[WA2ZDY]

A stake mount or something mounted to a tool box in the bed. Or something mounted up front, a hole mount is best but next would be a trunk lip mount if the hood has such a lip. Then there are mounts that use self tapping screws to screw into the edge next to the the hood/trunk where the mount sticks up through the crack between the body and hood.

[w9eod]

How about a hood lip mount? I have one on my truck and I get a great signal on it. No visible holes to drill and no clearance issues. Go here:

Sauder Electronics (http://www.sauderelectronics.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=136&osCsid=ddf1edd518ae7cd2565c23756a50e5c3)

I got that one and installed it on my truck and have been really pleased. I will try and post pics of it soon.

73,
KC9KIS

[WA2ZDY]

That's what I was trying to describe. Thanks KIS.

[k7mh]

I have a 2005 Silverado and the front hood does not have the usual standard "lip". What year is your truck? You cannot use the usual Larsen bracket or any bracket in an L shape. I gave up and mounted a rooftop antenna with NMO mount right over the inside dome light which made for easy access for drilling the hole. Short of that, I would mount a L bracket on the inside of the rail behind the cab on the drivers side and use whatever antenna you like. It will work much as well there as it would on the front deck. It is my experience that it will not work anywhere near as well as a roof mounted antenna. It was also impossible to route the cable into the cab from the outside without drilling a hole so I drew power from the trailer brake control cable under the dash.

[N2MXM]

Use Comet CP lip mount, & a Diamond 770 or 790 ant. 73's

AES (http://www.aesham.com/pdf/page70-80.pdf)

[NJ4R]

In most of the silverado's there is a vent along the back wall on each side of the truck....this is louvered #if you look close you will see them between the cab and body of the truck..you might have to pull away some insulation..once you find the vent you can snake the coax out to the area between the bed and the cab #with NO drilling....a stake pocket makes a decent mount for a vhf/uhf antenna # good luck on your mounting..

[n4urw]

Go with a 2 Meter J-pole. Best antenna around.

N4URW/Joel

[W4ETE]

Quote[/b] (k7mh @ Dec. 14 2006,18:21)]<snip> It was also impossible to route the cable into the cab from the outside without drilling a hole so I drew power from the trailer brake control cable under the dash.
Not to sound too crazy since I don't have a PU Truck, but do you have to be braking in order to TX/RX if you use that as your power source?

(Edited to fix a spelling error.)

[kl2by]

Quote[/b] (W4ETE @ Dec. 26 2006,10:43)]Not to sound too crazy since I don't have a PU Truck, but do you have to be braking in order to TX/RX if you use that as your power source?

(Edited to fix a spelling error.)
no, there are multiple constant and ignition switched points in-cab to be able to pull from for radio power.

If you tap into the trailer brake power, there are 2 seperate power leads for the electric brakes. One feeds constant power to the trailer brake controller. I don't know which one off the top of my head though.

The actual brake power is controlled BY the controller and is only initiated when there is continuity through the circuit (trailer plug is IN) and there is decelleration (most brake controllers have motion sensing) as well as brake pedal actuation. #Then the controller will modulate the signal as required for the desired braking action of the trailer. # You usually hook up your trailer, then tune the controller for the load, and braking action.. usually a smidge later and a smidge stronger than truck brake actuation, that way small braking is done by truck brakes, but if you stomp on it the trailer pulls harder preventing you from watching your load go past you in a skid (Jackknifing is BAAD!!)

I usually just run a fused straight line from the battery pos/neg for my radio hookups. That way I can bypass the automatic shutoffs inherent in most of the in-cab constant power feeds (some turn off 10min after key shutoff and/or when door opening occurs) unless you are pulling from ignition constant power.

On my blazer (ex-cucv) I just run from my secondary electrical system I built for all my accessories (segragated acc. and veh. = leave equip. on and run down battery and I can still start and drive away)

BTW: for the original poster, I would think running a maxrad antenna up top, a dualband springloaded model like on my blazer, would work fine. Unless you are running 35's you will have plenty of clearance (the antenna will hit, but it will be well above the spring and it won't hurt nothing.)